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Valve Clearences

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R1stu
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Joined: 12 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 21 Nov 2006    Post subject: Valve Clearences Reply with quote

How would you know that the valves need adjusting?

The R1 is comming upto 23k and after seeing the price of getting them done I want to make sure they need doing!

For that and the CCT Im not going to see much change from £900 Shocked Shocked
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 21 Nov 2006    Post subject: Re: Valve Clearences Reply with quote

If it's just the tensioner, that should be easy to do yourself.

For the rest, maybe find someone who'll do it 'on the side', for reasonable money or who knows about such things but isn't it a mechanic.
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 21 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

WEll was asking CraigT19 about it and apparntly you need some special yam tool to do it, so He wouldnt beable to do it!

AS for the CCT the haynes manual makes it look easy! Dont even need to take the head off, just tank and airbox/carbs.

But I am always weary of engine work myself. Anything else fine! I have stripped R6s and rebuilt them enough but never felt confident enough to do stuff to the engine!
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tony532
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PostPosted: 15:29 - 21 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm wondering this as well.

i have been told the bike will be hard to start.


just wondered what noises the engine will be making
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TOM M
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 21 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the cct, cam chain and the valve clearences done on me old zxr400 and it only cost me around £300
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 21 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

TOM M wrote:
I had the cct, cam chain and the valve clearences done on me old zxr400 and it only cost me around £300


Where you take that to get done?
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 21 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what the haynes says!
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 21 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Tensioner should be easy enough. Valve clearances likely need the cams to come out to be adjusted, but you should be able to check the with the cams in place.

Fairly certain that the R1 uses shimmed valves. As such they probably close up with miles and the bike will get quieter.

All the best

Keith
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DynaMight
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PostPosted: 01:16 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was told that if a bikes harder to start when it's warm it's a sign that the bike needs the valves adjusting
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 01:19 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

DynaMight wrote:
I was told that if a bikes harder to start when it's warm it's a sign that the bike needs the valves adjusting


Yes, but a late sign. Basically the valve clearances tighten up when the engine is warm, and likely the starting problem is going to occur when the valve are no longer sealing.

All the best

Keith
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prob need doing soon then, as need choke most days to start her! even when not cold cold.
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nrml76
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Joined: 05 Nov 2005
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PostPosted: 13:37 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the engine runs rough after it is warmed up compared to when it was cold, the clearance is probably very tight. Most places I asked quoted me about 100 quid plus the cost of the shims. £900 seems excessive to me, even for two bikes. It is about a 2 hour job per bike, after removing the fairings, tank, airbox etc.
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Nath
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the valve clearances were an engine out job on the R1?
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Big Pete
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Expect about 4-6 hours labour to do valve clearance and cam chain adjustment, a good chunk of which is stripping enoough of the bike to get at the head. Sometimes you can negotiate with the mechanic to cut the cost if you take the bike in with most of the fairing etc already removed.

If the valve clearances are closing its a pain, if they open things get progressively noiser and you lose some power. If they close eventually the valves don't seat properly (altho the engine will still start and run, and will run better at high engine speeds)and you start burning the valve seats. At this point it becomes a race between the engine becoming a real pain to start and the hot gas jet burning through the stem of an exhaust valve and destroying the head/barrels and piston. If the general experience is that the valve clearances close up on your engine then get them checked or do it yourself.

If you decide to have a go youself there area range of little gadgets that (usually) bolt onto the cam cover holes and compress thevalve springs, this gives you enough room to change the shims with out having to remove the cams, which can cause other problems.
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

~Its a set price of £425 to do the valves on the R1 and about £350 for the CCT.

Ill prop do that myself with the aid of Craig!
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TOM M
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:
TOM M wrote:
I had the cct, cam chain and the valve clearences done on me old zxr400 and it only cost me around £300


Where you take that to get done?



Bikerz in S-O-T
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Grubby
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 22 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's 2 ways of doing this job, one's to take the cams out, the other is to use the tool that Yamaha sell. Me I use the special tool. If it was my R1 with that sort of mileage I'd be checking the clearances personally speaking.
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APNess
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Joined: 08 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 23 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone got the part number of the tool Yamaha techs use? Have a Thunderace on 23k miles needs valves checking, and would like to do it myself. As far as I can tell, it's fairings off, radiator dropped forward/or taken off, and probably downpipes/exhaust off if I want more room to get in to check them.

If they needed doing I was contemplating dropping the engine. No prior experience on Bikes, just Haynes manual and remember having to check the cam followers (hydraulic ones) on my 20v Audi, so (sort of) similar.

Local place (leeds) charges £166 to check the clearances - that's another option, but with xmas coming up, that's cash that might be better saved for other things.
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tatters
Exxon Valdez



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PostPosted: 00:02 - 24 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thunderace does,nt need checking till 28,000 miles, then the only speical tool you need is a feel gauge to check the clearances between the shim and the cam.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:45 - 24 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grubby wrote:
There's 2 ways of doing this job, one's to take the cams out, the other is to use the tool that Yamaha sell. Me I use the special tool. If it was my R1 with that sort of mileage I'd be checking the clearances personally speaking.


Can't have shim-under-bucket then. If they are on top then a home-made tool should be easy enough to fabricate. I've made similar tools for other bikes I've owned.

Any bike that has to have the engine dropped to do the valves is poorly designed IMHo, though there are a few of them about. Come to think of it I'm told you have to drop the engine just to remove 2 of the spark plugs on the ZX10R...
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bish777
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PostPosted: 02:54 - 24 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the R1 is anything like the FZR1000, its a complicated, difficult, time consuming and fiddly job.

20 valves, shims under the buckets and 3 piece head. Tiny little shims too.
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APNess
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 04:23 - 24 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

28,000? Weird. That's 24k, 25k 26k and 28k I've seen now either in lilterature or on the internet. Confused :S

I dug the handbook out again, says 42000km which works out to be 26097.

Oh well at 23k might as well do them anyway - I plan to do other bits whilst the bike is in errrr bits.
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tatters
Exxon Valdez



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PostPosted: 04:27 - 24 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did have up till when l sold my thunderace a genuwine copy of the yamaha workshop manual not crapy hayes which stated 28k, most likey they won,t need agjusting so you can forget about it till 56k fingers crossed Smile



to have the clearances checked by a garage should be no more than £100 ish.
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Past:NRG50,AF1125(x2),NSR125RR,ZZR250,CX500,VFR400,KR1S,ZZR600(x2),CB400N,YZF1000(x2),KH125,Z200,FX400R,CBR954RR(x2)GPZ500S,GT550,VFR750F(x2),RD350N,XR650R,CBR600F,CB250,KDX250,YZF750R,CRM250,400EXC,KLR650,TTR600RE,DR350S,R100GSPD,RGV250,VMAX1200,DL650,KZ750 Present:G650XC,C12,CRF450X,1190ADV
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irving
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 24 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

>>

Last edited by irving on 13:12 - 23 Jan 2007; edited 1 time in total
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 24 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a shim calculator program last year with a bit of excel help from the other guys at 200mph. No-one has ever used it far as I know but if you find working out the shim sizes confusing then it will take all the guesswork out of it and it makes a handy table for recording your measurements if nothing else - it's very easy for a rookie to get confused doing the shims and if you lose track you have to re-fit the cams with the shims all fitted rtandomly and start over again.

All you have to do is input the correct valve clearances as found in your manual then print out the worksheet. Measure up your gaps and write them in the boxes, then measure the shims you have and write them in their boxes too, then go back to the PC and put all the stuff you've written down into the excel sheet. It will then tell you what shims you need to buy. Click the screenshot below to download - requires excel

https://peterrimmer.myby.co.uk/images/shimcalc.gif
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