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Catalyst
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 25 May 2007    Post subject: Fuel Types Reply with quote

Ok so when i go to fill up i always get Premium Unleaded, but now theres the Ultra low in sulphur stuff?

Whats the difference? It's the same price, just wondered if it actually makes a difference?

Thanks, Jack
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Ted
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 25 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably a bit better for the enviroment, and worse for the engine... not tried it tho...

*Bring back Leaded Fuel ...it smelt better!*
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 10:04 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

just worry about the octane rating. If i remember correctly the lower sulphur stuff prolongs catalyst life, which doesn't matter on a bike as your emissions won't be tested at the MOT station.

The higher the octane rating, the more stable the fuel will be and the better it will be for high comp engines.

Jack
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

As long as the octane rating is sufficient for the requirements of the engine then that bit is fine. Spending more money on a higher octane fuel than the engine needs is just wasting money. Use a fuel below that level and you run the risk of major engine damage.

Higher octane rating does not mean the fuel is better (indeed, in actual energy content the higher octane rating often goes with a lower energy content). It merely refers to it resistance to knock. Once that is sufficient for the compression ration / ignition timing / boost of the engine you are using you will gain nothing by going higher.

And plenty of Japanese bikes are designed to run on far lower octane fuel than is available in the UK. For example the ZZR600 specifies 91 RON fuel min.

All the best

Keith
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 10:25 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am allowed to mix 10% paraffin with petrol to lower the octain in my pre-war Ariels. I never bother though as paraffin costs more than petrol.
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

As long as the octane rating is sufficient for the requirements of the engine then that bit is fine. Spending more money on a higher octane fuel than the engine needs is just wasting money. Use a fuel below that level and you run the risk of major engine damage.

Higher octane rating does not mean the fuel is better (indeed, in actual energy content the higher octane rating often goes with a lower energy content). It merely refers to it resistance to knock. Once that is sufficient for the compression ration / ignition timing / boost of the engine you are using you will gain nothing by going higher.

And plenty of Japanese bikes are designed to run on far lower octane fuel than is available in the UK. For example the ZZR600 specifies 91 RON fuel min.

All the best

Keith


Good job someone could be bothered to type it out lol Laughing
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

1930 Ariel wrote:
I am allowed to mix 10% paraffin with petrol to lower the octain in my pre-war Ariels. I never bother though as paraffin costs more than petrol.


Why do you need to lower the octane-rating for old bikes?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its not that they need a lower octane, but back when paraffin was cheaper than fuel you could get away with it, and they would still run.
Cheaper fuel.
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
1930 Ariel wrote:
I am allowed to mix 10% paraffin with petrol to lower the octain in my pre-war Ariels. I never bother though as paraffin costs more than petrol.


Why do you need to lower the octane-rating for old bikes?


No idea Geri! I think it is actualy more to do with upper cyl lubrication on veteran and pioneer machines as paraffin makes them run a lot colder. Never done it myself though but I hear good results from iron headed Sq4s.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

1930 Ariel wrote:
Geri wrote:

Why do you need to lower the octane-rating for old bikes?


No idea Geri! I think it is actualy more to do with upper cyl lubrication on veteran and pioneer machines as paraffin makes them run a lot colder. Never done it myself though but I hear good results from iron headed Sq4s.


Lubrication makes a lot of sense. Paraffin is the lubrication I use when machining cast-iron. It's a far-better lubricant than petrol for sure Smile
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magpiemale
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PostPosted: 11:46 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

As long as the octane rating is sufficient for the requirements of the engine then that bit is fine. Spending more money on a higher octane fuel than the engine needs is just wasting money. Use a fuel below that level and you run the risk of major engine damage.

Higher octane rating does not mean the fuel is better (indeed, in actual energy content the higher octane rating often goes with a lower energy content). It merely refers to it resistance to knock. Once that is sufficient for the compression ration / ignition timing / boost of the engine you are using you will gain nothing by going higher.

And plenty of Japanese bikes are designed to run on far lower octane fuel than is available in the UK. For example the ZZR600 specifies 91 RON fuel min.

All the best

Keith

So when would it make a diffrence to use a higher grade of fuel on a bike then like shell and bp and total has? as they say you get more miles to the tank compared to ordinary fuel I have a zed 750 and the fuel rating is 92 ron so going higher wont make the bike run better or go faster?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:12 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

magpiemale wrote:
Kickstart wrote:
Hi

As long as the octane rating is sufficient for the requirements of the engine then that bit is fine. Spending more money on a higher octane fuel than the engine needs is just wasting money. Use a fuel below that level and you run the risk of major engine damage.

Higher octane rating does not mean the fuel is better (indeed, in actual energy content the higher octane rating often goes with a lower energy content). It merely refers to it resistance to knock. Once that is sufficient for the compression ration / ignition timing / boost of the engine you are using you will gain nothing by going higher.

And plenty of Japanese bikes are designed to run on far lower octane fuel than is available in the UK. For example the ZZR600 specifies 91 RON fuel min.

All the best

Keith

So when would it make a diffrence to use a higher grade of fuel on a bike then like shell and bp and total has? as they say you get more miles to the tank compared to ordinary fuel I have a zed 750 and the fuel rating is 92 ron so going higher wont make the bike run better or go faster?


If you change the bike to a higher state-of-tune, then it might be necessary. This means:

Higher static compression
Higher dynamic compression (altered cam-timing)
Advanced timing
Nitrous Oxide injection
Forced induction (turbo- or super-charging)
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The octane rating alone makes stuff all difference once you have a sufficiently high rating (unless you have an engine able to alter the ignition timing and / or boost to take advantage of it, and even then it will make only a nominal difference to a non turbo engine). There are loads of other things in fuel that make a difference. Such as energy content, flame speed, combustion temperature, unburnable chemical content, ability to clean injectors / valves, etc (and some of these affect the octane rating).

There is also the sensitivity of the fuel, which is the difference between the RON and MON ratings for a fuel. In Europe the RON method is used. The other major method is the MON method which gives a rating on average ~10 points lower and which is probably of more relevance to road engines (tests are very similar, just tested at different rpm in the test engine, and a few other things). The USA uses the PON (pump octane number) which is the average of the RON and MON figures. It is quite possible to have a fuel that does well in the RON test and badly in the MON test (or the other way round).

Choosing fuel on octane rating alone is like choosing food on vitamin C content alone. Yes it is important up to a point, after which anything extra is not of any use.

Best way to look at fuel octane rating is like choosing a ladder to get over a particular wall. Too short a lader and you are stuffed. About right and you will manage OK, with a slightly higher ladder being a bit safer (ie, octane rating of a fuel degrades with age, hence one reason old petrol can cause issues). Go beyond that and you are not gaining anything except the expense of a longer ladder and making it more difficult for you.

All the best

Keith
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magpiemale
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

So is it worth the extra money in putting in those cleaner,more miles to the gallon type fuels which are backe up by "tests" or does the diffrence in miles not equate to that much saving on a bike.total's Excellium,bp's Ultimate and shells advance ferarri fuel
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will help to pay for the TV and radio adverts, but that's about it.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

On some bikes maybe yes. Generally probably not. You would have more effect on performance by skipping breakfast.

BP Ultimate in the Bandit made no difference to the power on a dyno.

All the best

Keith
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sagalout
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can have other effects though.

VPower helps massively with carb icing on the ZX9 in the colder months. I have no idea why, but it works out cheaper than adding Silkolene FST.

No idea if it has any other benefits, but I tend to fill up with it where possible out of habit now. I also have an ignition advancer fitted, so (probably wrongly) thought it makes sense to spend and extra few pence a week on it
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

sagalout wrote:
I also have an ignition advancer fitted, so (probably wrongly) thought it makes sense to spend and extra few pence a week on it


The ignition advancer would be one thing that might well make higher octane fuel necessary. And possibly result in engine damage if the higher octane fuel is not used (depending onwhat it was originally set up for and how far the timing is changed).

All the best

Keith
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Ted
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If its all about the 'cleaner' fuels... and being 'better for the enviroment'... does it really matter?

Use whatever gives you the best performance and mpg... sod the rest... pretty much everybody on this forum will be dead within 50 years so who cares about the pollution! Very Happy
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 26 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think an advancer alone on a stock engine wouldn't necessitate the use of optimax etc but using the better fuel will safeguard you from using very poor-quality fuel with the advancer which could promote detonation especially in extreme-heat conditions.
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magpiemale
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PostPosted: 08:26 - 27 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

sagalout wrote:
It can have other effects though.

VPower helps massively with carb icing on the ZX9 in the colder months. I have no idea why, but it works out cheaper than adding Silkolene FST.

No idea if it has any other benefits, but I tend to fill up with it where possible out of habit now. I also have an ignition advancer fitted, so (probably wrongly) thought it makes sense to spend and extra few pence a week on it

Well yes they say using the "cleaner" higher spec fuels can help clean your injectors and aid in fuel economy and so forth so there are other benefits other than more power but since you pay another 3-4p a litre more does the few pence more really keep your fuel system and engine cleaner! well as someone said to me once, you pays ya money and ya get's what you get,thanks for the answers but as always there is no easy answer unless you take the engine apart after 10,000 miles and see if the fuel has made it better or worse lol but then would not the cheaper ordinary fuel have made the same thing happen ? who knows
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