honda vfr 800.

[mooserx]

hello all, i would like your opinions good or bad on the honda vfr800, is it really any good?
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TL1000r-handful.

[ColdInsomnia]

Eh, not bad.

Wrong forum though buddy. Try asking in General Chat.
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Yamaha YB100 | Yamaha TZR125 | Yamaha XJ600S | Suzuki GSF600
"Our society is run by insane people for insane objectives. I think we're being run by maniacs for maniacal ends and I think I'm liable to be put away as insane for expressing that. That's what's insane about it."
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[Itchy]

ask Toby R infact stinkwheel recently wrote an extensive review of the older 750 VTEC is to be avoided though , astronomical service costs.
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Spain 2008France 2007Big one 2009 We all die. The goal isn't to live forever, the goal is to create something that will. In the end, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it is worth watching.

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[veeeffarr]

800 VTEC high servicing costs is bullshit, more expensive than the 800 Fi but not that much, a lot of people just check the non-VTEC valves and most of them don't need doing until 32k anyway.

Sometimes the VTEC kick in can be a bit jerky it seems to differ bike to bike so if you do get a VTEC get a test ride and check

VTEC only works when the bikes warmed up

I love my 800 Fi non VTEC to bits, keep it on the boil at over 7k and it's fucking fast

Really comfy, build quality is excellent, digital fuel guage, temp, clock, air temp, 140 miles from a full tank if you thrash it, 200ish if not

Nice neutral handling, LCBS system works well

I'll write a review soon

Lovely bike, buy one

[sceats]

Agree with Toby R – although I’ve a VTEC 06 and find it great; check out the VFR club for more of a low-down. https://www.hondavfrclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?

The debate about VTEC vs. pre-VTEC will continue, with some hating and some loving. I like the VTEC as mine has never had fuelling problems and experiences only a marginal step in the power @ 7k revs.

I like the economy / low-end grunt under 7k coupled with the top-end of a sports-bike that the VTEC gives, but have never ridden a non-VTEC so can’t adjudicate. Best is to ride both and see which you prefer.

Either way, it’s not one of the best sports tourers of the past decade for nothing (although I’d argue more sports than tourer)

[veeeffarr]

It's a comfy sportsbike really and if you treat as such you will love it.

1997- is the VFR750, don't know much about them
Fi-W - 1998 - VFR800, new engine with linked brakes, fuel injection, etc
Fi-X - 1999 - Same as 1998 but with yellow and black colour schemes
Fi-Y - 2000 - Major upgrade, choke removed and replaced with fast idle wax unit, fuel injection upgrade, upgraded rear shock, stainless downpipes, upgraded reg/rec, HECS catalyser system
Fi-1 - 2001 - Same but with grey wheels
F(A)-2 - 2002 - (A denotes whether ABS fitted or not) VTEC model
F-5 - ABS as standard (I think)

Basic things to look for on a non VTEC 800:

* Head bearings - Can go even without being wheelies
* (Before Fi-Y) - Reg/Rec, check it's been replaced
* (Before Fi-Y) Downpipes - Can rot through, probably replaced by now
* Rear shock can be knackered by about 24,000 miles
* Check the LCD numbers fully work, when you turn the ignition key the LCD does a POST and lights all of the plates up (Yes, the hundred digit is supposed to be missing a bar ) If this is working, also check under the headlight (bottom of the nose cone) to make sure the black panel is still there, if missing it can let in moisture

That's about it really for these bikes, they are really reliable

16,000/32,000 miles is the big service so make sure this has been done by a good mech, 12,000 is air filter clutch and brake fluid so not too important

If you test ride a VFR800 make sure you pull away with lots of revs and let the clutch out fast - If it makes a horrible noise and slips, possibly stalling let the bike warm up (Ride it for 15/20 minutes) if it stops it's the clutch slave pushrod, a quick fix but you can haggle the fuck out of the seller if he's not aware of it.

Oil change interval is 8,000 miles

Poor power at idle can be the start valves needing balancing (Like carbs)

Check the fairing where the indicator is mounted as this almost always gets mullered even from a 0mph drop with crash bungs, other contact points are the clutch cover, end can and mirrors

Check the numberplate alignment with the back wheel, this will tell you whether the subframe is ok

Desirable mods: Hugger, Scottoiler, Double Bubble

Original toolkit is good quality and if present shows care, ask how to adjust the chain as it can be a pain in the arse if you don't know how

Be careful putting it on the sidestand, quite a lot of drops happen this way as the pedal is slippy (I found out the hard way)

The gearbox is always clunky, this is normal, however clutchless shifting damages the box, it's the weak part of the engine (Although it's very fucking strong compared to other bikes)

Check all the panels fit together properly as a crash can bend the lugs, indicators are a big key here

The seat cowl comes as standard with it, as do the pillion grab rails so don't be fobbed off by the seller saying they're an extra

An exhaust nicely removes the flat spot (apparently) and they're in high demand on eBay. Fuel make a nice one for 130 high level and you get 10% off if you join the VFR owners club.

If you're looking for a 750 go for the 1997 (Latest model is best )
If you're looking for the 800 non VTEC go for 2000/2001
If you're looking for the VTEC the newest you can afford

However don't buy on mileage because they run forever looked after

K&N's ARGUABLY shorten the engine life.

They will wheelie in first gear and they are DEFINATELY NOT an old mans bike, you will find out why when you get on one.

Good luck

T

[JHONCAMANEI]

PLEASE I WOULD APPRECIATE IF SOMEONE KNOWLEDGEABLE ABOUT THE KLR650 WILL ANSWER I HAVE A COUPLE OF IMPORTANT QUESTIONS. THANK YOU.

[veeeffarr]