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RS125 eating spark plugs!

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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: RS125 eating spark plugs! Reply with quote

hi all,
after numerous problems trying to install a bigger carb, i gave up & decided to put bike back to standard, & take it from there.
so put 28mm carb back on,
airbox back on,
new spark plug in,
& voila! bike started first time!
so i now know my bigger carb is knackered.
no problem....
so i goes to start bike today,
started ok, idled for a few minutes then died!
wouldnt start back up.
checked all the obvious things,
then whipped plug out, checked for a spark,
smallest weakest orange spark ever!
this is a brand new plug!
& i cant understand what has happened since it ran last week?
as when i had it running, i only took it out for a short run then back home,
where it has sat since?
this is the third time i have changed the plug only for it to die in exactly the same way,
so its obviously the bike/carb/fueling.
as when i remove plug, its wet & black.
anyone any ideas?
as at this rate i would need a new spark plug for every journey i make!
something wrong somewhere!
cheers,
GAZ
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

How long did you leave it idling and why did you?

Doing short journies and leaving it idling will make it more prone to fouling plugs.

All the best

Keith
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi,
only left it idling for about 2 minutes max,
just time to tighten up tank bolt & by the time i put my helmet on,
bike had cut out!
was just gonna let it idle till screen had changed from "COLD".
as i thought that was the correct thing to do?
ie - not set off straight away from cold, is this right?
or do i need to buy ANOTHER plug, lol,
cheers,
GAZ
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Add that to your short journey before. And probably idling with the choke on (knock the choke off as soon as possible).

Personally I would say ride off immediatly. Don't warm it up idling (takes ages, and dumps loads of petrol into the engine which will do a good job of washing oil from the bearings, etc). Just keep the revs rght down until it is up to temperature.

That said if should cope better than your seems to. Ensure the mixture screw is adjusted correctly (that is what will determine the mixture when idling). Same for the oil pump.

All the best

Keith
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 14:27 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi & thanks Keith,
i did let it idle for a while last week, before & after run,
as i was adjusting idle screw.
perhaps thats why im fouling plugs then?
as i have always let it idle till almost up to running temp!
got bad advice in past then!
i will heed your advice & set off straight away & just take it easy till it gets warm.
so off to buy a new plug!
cheers,
GAZ
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alains
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

try an irridium model depense on your heath rate
i think your standard is BR10EG try BR10EIX or denso IW30
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

stirlinggaz wrote:

as i have always let it idle till almost up to running temp!
got bad advice in past then!


It is the advice given to reduce the chances of a cold seizure. Leaving bikes idling while they warm up causes other problems though. Personally never had a problem with a cold seizure (plenty when fully warmed up Whistle )but then I don't thrash them until up to temp.

All the best

Keith
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

alains wrote:
try an irridium model depense on your heath rate
i think your standard is BR10EG try BR10EIX or denso IW30

HI,
thats the plug i have in!
previously i had BR10ES
before that i had BR9ES
BUT NEW ONE IS BR10EIX IRIDIUM but it has also fouled!
waste of £7.50!
cheers,
GAZ
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Phil_P
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Joined: 10 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about leaning off the mixture screw?
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil_P wrote:
How about leaning off the mixture screw?

hi,
that was my next question!
so what way should i be turning it?
in or out?
sorry for sounding so stupid, ma heid is frazzled!
cheers,
GAZ
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Phil_P
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PostPosted: 18:03 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure if it is a fuel screw, if it is, turning it in would lean the mixture. I'm not 100% sure so hopefully someone else will put me right.

You have a 50:50 chance of getting it right by guesswork, and you won't do any damage by trying it both ways so nothing to lose by trying
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alains
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

gaz , i never had problem with irridium plug but i know problem can occur with oil fouling and top-engine & exhaust carbonized
clean it , avoid to scrap the center and if it work again here is your problem
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

alains wrote:
gaz , i never had problem with irridium plug but i know problem can occur with oil fouling and top-engine & exhaust carbonized
clean it , avoid to scrap the center and if it work again here is your problem

Hi alains,
sorry if im not understanding you correctly.
but what should i be scraping in event of carbonising?
the exhaust?
the spark plug?
if the top end is carbonised, how do i cure this? - rebuild?
cheers,
GAZ
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Depending on the exact model of carb it will either be an air adjustment screw or a mixture adjustment screw. An air adjustment screw works by changing the amount of air able to flow through the idle circuit. A mixture adjustment screw works by changing the amount of fuel entering the idle circuit. On the PHBH it is obvious which kind of idle adjustment the carb has. If the adjustment screw is on the engine side of the carb slide then it is a mixture screw, but if it is on the airbox side of the carb then it is an airscrew.

In either case turning it anticlockwise will allow more through ; more air with the air screw (so leaner) or more fuel with a mixture screw (so richer).

All the best

Keith
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alains
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 strokes leave a deposit (oil excess burning) and when it begins to be important the performances get lower , the engine heat too much . to decarbonize , you need at least a rings change (or piston-rings,or top-end depense of their status) . i was talking about cleaning the plug avoiding to touch the little center , generaly it goes again and this is the sign of a clogged exhaust and carbon in the top-end (plug overheat)
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 03 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Depending on the exact model of carb it will either be an air adjustment screw or a mixture adjustment screw. An air adjustment screw works by changing the amount of air able to flow through the idle circuit. A mixture adjustment screw works by changing the amount of fuel entering the idle circuit. On the PHBH it is obvious which kind of idle adjustment the carb has. If the adjustment screw is on the engine side of the carb slide then it is a mixture screw, but if it is on the airbox side of the carb then it is an airscrew.

In either case turning it anticlockwise will allow more through ; more air with the air screw (so leaner) or more fuel with a mixture screw (so richer).

All the best

Keith

hi,
thanks for explaining,
i actually thought the screw adjusted both fuel & air, doh!
(as in less fuel more air & more fuel less air)
as you can tell, im still learning the basics/terminology.
but find your advice helpful & informative, as always,
thank-you.
but what confuses me is - if airbox is in centre of bike as in the RS?
& what do you mean by the "engine side"
i know you said its obvious which type of ajustment screw is on the PHBH,
but not to me! lol!
sorry for if im sounding dumber & dumber!
cheers,
GAZ
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 19:48 - 03 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

stirlinggaz wrote:

but what confuses me is - if airbox is in centre of bike as in the RS?
& what do you mean by the "engine side"
i know you said its obvious which type of ajustment screw is on the PHBH,


Carb is between the airbox and the engine. Middle of the carb there is the slide with the idle speed adjustment screw. If the screw to adjust the idle mixture is to the airbox side of the slide / idle speed adjustment screw then it is an air screw. If the screw to adjust the idle mixture is to the engine side of the slide / idle speed adjustment screw then it is a mixture adjustment screw.

All the best

Keith
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 03 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi Keith,
sorry, i should have looked at the dellorto guide first!
ok, so my 28mm PHBH has little adjustment scew on side of carb, closest to front of bike, not at airbox end.(presume this is what you meant by engine end?)
so can i presume its a mxture adjustment screw?
& if i turn it anti-clockwise it will richen it up?
right - one more stupid question - im getting tired & my head hurts,
does richen it up mean leaning it off or the oposite, sorry lol.
but ideally, im told i want to lean it off"
am i getting it or not, lol
cheers,
GAZ
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Ariel Badger
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Joined: 02 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 03 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anti clock =richer
Clock =weaker
Delorto are pants for this IMHO, very confusing
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 04 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Anticlockwise on that carb means richer. That means more fuel for the air.

Leaner means less fuel for the amount of air.

All the best

Keith
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