DRZ - what to look for??

[daytona55]

After what seems like an eternity of wbr (web based research - you know, skyving at work!!), I have just about settled on trying to buy a DRZ400.
Trouble is, I am not as rich as I would like to grow accustom to, so therefore only have 1500 to spend at an absolute maximum - ideall is 1300.
Could anyone tell me what sort of bike I can expect for this money, and what sort of age.
Seen a few on fleabay 2000 - 2002 ages going for this sort of price, but they appear to be used and abused on green lanes and enduros. I'm after a bike thats used regularly which will be more reliable.
Any opinions welcome!!

[G]

Greenlane riding can be quite harsh to the body work, but may well be less harsh mechanically than on-road - turning the throttle is more likely to result in the engine spinning up, so less stress on engine components as there's a bit of 'flex' generally.
Mud clogged in stuff less good.
Enduro riding's probably harsher, but may well be better maintained than either - unlikely the really competitive riders will be choosing a DRZ anyway as they're pretty slow/heavy.
As for what sort of bike to expect - best answer is to search yourself and see what the current market is like at the current time.

[Pie-Roe]

Full acerbis plastics for 67 quid on ebay. Everything apart from mudguards.

Pyro
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[daytona55]

Cheers people - is there any particular revision or model number I should look for - I've noticed the later drz's have digi speedos - is ther any performance revision that comes with this?
Also what tyres are suited best for mainly commuting but with a bit of green laning - thanks

[Itchy]

[Dom]

If you get the E make sure the electrics are okay. The light on mine had a habit of deciding not to work from time to time, and it would blow fuses for fun every now and then too. Try flicking the ignition on and off a few times, ditto the lights, and generally abuse it as much as possible on the test ride to make sure it's not a shitter. It's a Suzuki, so watch out for the build quality. Check everywhere for oil leaks, but in particular the output shaft (i.e. behind the front sprocket) as the seal there is prone to going and it's a bastard of a job to do if the old one has really fallen apart (mine had, naturally).

Get one with as little use and as few past owners as possible. Mileage doesn't really matter but where it's been done does. Aim for one that's only had light green lane use, ideally. As has been mentioned, some cosmetic damage is a given.

The E model is lighter and more powerful. It's the one you buy if you want to ride off road. It has a different carb to the normal bike.

Itchy, not everyone's going to Siberia. Get over this compression obsession already.
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Photos and that

[Itchy]

[tony_d123]

A standard 400E runs fine on normal unleaded (95 ron). I had one for 3 years and they are good, generally reliable bikes and lots of spares available.

Are you going to ride it on the road or trail? The 400E will do both but electrics are very basic for the road and no pillion pegs etc. The DRZ's you have seen with digital speedos are probably all the 400S model. The 400E did not come with a speedo, indicators or brake light as standard, so most have been added later. The 400S is more road orientated but heavier, metal tank, slightly lower engine tune etc. The specs have not really changed since they were introduced in 2000 apart from graphics. The 400E was dropped in 2007 but reintroduced last year!

The only weakness (apart from the usual suspects) is the output shaft collar and oil seal. If it has been looked after, the owner will have changed the collar for a stainless one and new seal. If left they tend to go suddenly and dump all their oil, I have seen it happen miles from anywhere! I got my stainless collar off eBay and the seal from the local dealer, not very expensive.

As someone has already said, a full set of plastics can be had for less than £100 so aesthetics are not a deal-breaker. If you are going to ride it properly for trail riding, you don't want a nice shiny bike anyway.

[MattHirst]

The output shaft seal (known as the counter shaft when talking DRZ's for some reason) doesn't just 'fail' on its own. What happens is, where the front sprocket sits on the splines, it has to much 'free play'. So when drive is enganged, the sprocket slips on the splines a little, loosening the big ass nut and allows the shaft to 'slide' (floating shaft). This rags the fuck out of your seal allowing oil to go everywhere (including your rear tyre, not nice mid corner at 60!).

If left to long like this, it knackers you're 2nd gear bush. To test the bushing has gone, lift the rear wheel (paddock stand etc) and spin it in neutral, if it feels lumpy and tight then your 2nd gear bushing has gone. Obviously there will be some resistance but it will be obvious if it has gone.

Common fix is the 'loctite fix', you basically put a few drops of loctite on each spline and then put the sprocket on, removes the free play on the sprocket/splines.

Another problem to look out for is the ACCT failing, causing your cam chain to skip on the cam shaft sprockets dumping a few valves into your piston!

There is nothing else that really goes wrong with them. The headlight problem is just the plug on the back of the bulb vibrating off, nothing abit of blue-tack can't handle

ThumperTalk is your friend!
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It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt, then it's bloody hilarious!!!

[tony_d123]

[MattHirst]

Oh sorry, i have only been a victim of the CS problem twice

As for the ACCT, it was redesigned around 2002/3 if i remember rightly which vastly reduce the number of which failed but it still happens. A MCCT can be picked up off ebay for around £25-£30 (or from america for around $30)

The nut coming loose isn't part of normal maintanace, it shouldn't come loose, period. The tab washer stops it actually coming off but it still comes loose enough to allow the shaft to move
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It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt, then it's bloody hilarious!!!

[tony_d123]

Matt, did not mean to offend but what you are talking about is a different, less common problem to the one I was describing. This is what I mean....

https://members.lycos.co.uk/mgmoto/html/drz_spacers.html

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30773&highlight=output+shaft+seal

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79366&highlight=output+shaft+seal

By regular maintenance with regard to the sprocket nut, I mean that when fitting one I would automatically use threadlock and make sure the tab washer is OK every time you remove the cover.

Obviously if there is side to side play this indicates the bush or bearing wear that you describe and if it has happened to you twice you must be seriously unlucky! I had a 400E & 400SM and both very reliable bikes, would definitely have another.

[MattHirst]

I'll let you off then

Apart from the intitial oil pissing out everywhere problem mine has been bullet proof (only reason it happened again is due to the dealer's shitness).

It was done under warranty, even though they insisted that i just let it run dry, they wouldn't listen to the fact that it pissed out everywhere!. Despite there being oil all over the rear tyre, wheel, swingarm and photos of the corner that it happened...cock knockers!

Got a full top end rebuild out of it though, luckily the 2nd time it happened i stopped within about 20 yards so didn't damage the engine (well, we don't think). Turns out they stripped the front sprocket nut (threads) when putting it all back together. A new nut and tab washer and all is good

Anyway, back on topic. I wouldn't hesitate to have another DRZ if it wasn't for the simple lack of power (i ride with sports bikes so keeping up in fast bits can be an issue). 470 stroker with FCR MX? YES PLEASE
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It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt, then it's bloody hilarious!!!