Wheel spindel sizes

[chris-red]

What sizes do bike wheel spindals come in? Me and a mate (steven_191) bought a beed braker together and he is going to make a wheel balancer but needs to know what usual sizes wheel spindels come in to make adaptors for different sized wheels.

Also, how would you go about removing wheel weights with damaging the paint on a wheel.

Thanks

Chris.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[chris-red]

No one? Come on, I expected Keith and Stinkwell to be reeling them off.

I'll start, Triumph Sprint ST Front is 25mm.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Best bet is to get a list of various wheel bearings used on different bikes and from that get the inside diameters. From an old catalog they are all either 10mm, 12mm, 15mm, 17mm, 20mm, 22mm, 25mm or 30mm (that last one is quite possibly only used for sprocket carrier bearings).

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[G]

I know the front of newer KTMs are 26mm, while the pre 2003 ones are 20mm. Some LC4s and the bigger CCMs use 16mm at the front I think. Trying to think if I've got any bigger than 26mm; suspect up to around 30mm (the GSXR uses a 36mm nut at the rear). CRM is pretty small.

I'd just go for some cones to tighten in either side, though it seems you don't need to worry too much for balancing as it's just a case of being able to spin freely.

[neatbik]

For removing wheel weights wrap some insulating (or similar) tape around the blade on a flat blade screwdriver then carefully prise the weights off.
Be careful though, its easy to pull of some paint along with the weight so just be aware.

[hmmmnz]

you could just make 2 tapered points that way it doesnt matter what size the bearings are
https://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g257/hmmmnz/balancer.jpg
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

[chris-red]

Thats the second option we figured getting the right sizes will make it more stable
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[G]

[neatbik]

On professional balancers they just have 2 cones as in hmmmz's pic on a threaded bar with a nut behind so you can clamp the wheel in tight.

[hmmmnz]

[G]

[steven_191]

the only trouble i thought with having tapered ends would be that it would be too easy to over tighten it, but not tight enough and the wheel could move about.


if the part is in steps then it could slot into the bearing and not go anywhere.

i agree the tapered idea is easy so long as it isnt too much hassle to set up. although how often do you balance wheels at home??

just need some ultra mega low friction bearings and the rest is easy

[hmmmnz]

[steven_191]

yeah i was thinking about 10-12mm rod, cut 2 tapered parts and then secure them with grub screws. you would only really ever need to remove one.

id like to make it all out of stainless as well so it dont go rusty.

ill put up a thread when i get round to doing it.


the reason i was thinking of overtightening was because of a threaded rod. instead a straight rod and grub screws would be a perfect fit everytime. probably.

[G]

The only 'issue' to overtightening would be if your cone caused damage - otherwise wheels are designed to be tightened pretty tightly.

I doubt grub screws would manage to hold it quite so well, not that it really matters and it would be quicker to release.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Would depend on the cones. Make them too "sharp" and the stand a chance of jamming into the bearings.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[steven_191]

im doing a cut of 30 degrees and see how that goes. i realised about the tightneing up, it will easily take the pressure.

at the minute ive got a legnth of silver steel (1/2") and have cut and reamed a 1/2" hole in a test piece, and its a sexy fit. that should be accurate enough


was also thinking about grinding or milling a flat into either side of the shaft for the grub screws so that it wont damage the surface that the parts will be running on and it really is that close a fit it will bind. i had to clean up the shaft with some dishwashing cloth to get the surface clean enough for it to fit lol.

[chris-red]

This idiot passed his CBT today, congratulations loser


____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[steven_191]

perfect apparently....... i even gave the instructor directions lol

[steven_191]

making a thread in the show and tell or this now