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ignition timing?

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conpants
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Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 12 Jul 2004    Post subject: ignition timing? Reply with quote

i have been told:-

advance the ignition timing 4-5mm cos it has been retarded. Buy a racing cdi and a hi flow reed block and reeds. Also you should put a 15 tooth front sprocket on it.


where do i get the front sprocket

and how do i advance the ignition timing?

i want a little more power, but i cant justify spending money on a 50cc moped
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divuk83
World Chat Champion



Joined: 27 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 12 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bike is this for?

Dave
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conpants
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Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 12 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

kawasaki ar50
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conpants
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Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 12 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

no ideas?
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rsooty
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Joined: 16 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 13 Jul 2004    Post subject: Re: ignition timing? Reply with quote

conpants wrote:

advance the ignition timing 4-5mm cos it has been retarded. Buy a racing cdi and a hi flow reed block and reeds. Also you should put a 15 tooth front sprocket on it.

and how do i advance the ignition timing?


The ignition timing is done by degrees. Not by length. It's a long job and is not worth doing to be totally honest as if done wrong will result in major misfires, damaged pistons and possibly a full re-build. If you want more power, buy a slightly larger bike? Or if you only want a slight increase of power tweak with the carb a little, although this will probably alter tickover if you adjust it for high speed.

Sooty

Sooty
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 13 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Sprocket should be available from M&P or the like.

Timing CAN be measured by distance, but it would be a lot less than 4~5mm. For example the RS125 ignition timing is 1.22mm before TDC, so set it 4~5mm before that and you would make a MAJOR difference.

I suspect they mean 4~5 degrees. Depending on the design this might be fairly easy or very difficult. You might be able to take off the flywheel and move the stator slightly, but the chances are that this will not be possible and you would have to just bodge the job by moving the flywheel on the crank slightly. This uses a woodruff key to locate it so you would either need an offset woodruff key (available, but god knows where) or to put the flywheel in place without the key to locate it (and it will then probably move and leave you stranded when it is least convenient).

All the best

Keith
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