Pup-Project: Honda CB125TD-C; Resto & Beyond...

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/heap/imag0829.jpg

OK, I can put together a flat-pack wardrobe from IKEA, so making a motorbike out of THIS lot can't be TOO hard can it?!

Alright, so HOW did I get into this mess? Well had my bike stolen nearly 5 weeks ago
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/100_0067.jpg
It was a Horrible Chinese cruiser thing. An AJS-Regal Raptor DD125E, to be precice. And I hated it. But My B/F had convinced me to keep it long enough to get my training & test. and made a few adaptations, like fitting lower bar-risers and narrower bars, and i was JUST starting to think it was ALMOST alright, and had even polished it, when it got nicked. And it hadn't been found so had to look for another 125 so that i could do my rider training,before going on my test.

Well my bf was helping me, and he`s got a cb750 called 'Black Dawg', and I wanted a 'Project' so I thought "I know I'll go for the cb125, and call it the 'pup'"
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/odds%20and%20sods/dawg_02.jpg
So we hunted ebay for cb125 and ended up winning one, in the end for £310. Well it looked a little scruffy with the paint work the old owner did on it but that was an easy fix...
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/xld01_09.jpg
we went to collect. b/f checked it over and he said that it was a cb125t with cb125tdc body work,as it had twin shocks.... But all was reveiled when we got it home.

As I was after learning mechanics, what ever bike I was going to end up with, was going to be rebuilt. Completely, 'no expense spared', Ha-Ha! B/F's started wincing at the price for having forks re-chromed and having new locks and exhausts!

Bill, excluding THIS heap, has just topped £1300, and we haven't looked at the engine yet! (see website for costs to date)
YES! It WOULD, have been cheaper to go buy a three year old CBR125..... BUT I guess I wouldn't have learned so much, and by the time we're finished, I SHOULD have pretty much a brand-new bike..... well, once the B/F has been convinced to get them shiney bits for me! He-He!
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/Picture032.jpg
'The Heap' as it I now call it, as thats what it is, the heap in the pic at the top! As it arived on our drive.
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/pi6f8a01.jpg
Anyway I got started stripping it the very next day.
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/Picture040.jpg
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/Picture052.jpg
Now, that BAD paint-Job started with LOTS of BAD filler!

https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/Picture050.jpg
Battery Box 'Botched' with a bit of tin-plate.
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/Picture049.jpg
Broken Clutch Cable, 'fixed' with.... well YOUR guess is as good as ANY-ONES!
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/Picture056.jpg
ONLY the b/f noticed that it wasnt the cb125t but the cb125tdc had the mono shock linkage and part of the frame removed,and twin shocks drilled into the frame and swingarm.....i wasnt pleased.......
https://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae49/bikerbird/The%20Pup%20Project/imag0826.jpg
Frame after being stripped, the twin-shock mounts bolts through holes drilled in the seat rail of the frame and the end-plate of the swing-arm! B/F's an engineer, and HE missed that the way it had been hid!

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/heap/imag0825.jpg https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/heap/imag0824.jpg

Frame from another bike, notice the horezontal rail between the engine loops with the bracket on for the shock-absorber. It was completely MISSING from this frame!
So we 'scrapped' it. Time to do something different.
(See the Full Story @ [url]https://snowtigeress.webfreehosting.net/Pup_04_The%20Heap.htm] Snowtigeress's Blog-Spot[/url]
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Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

Since I'm funding this project 'till her insurance settlement comes through, and THAT is only likely to make a small dent in the overall budget, I think its worth providing just HOW MUCH this little escapade is costing!

Honda CB125TD-C - pretending to be a T £310.00
Honda CB125TD-C - Frame, s-Arm & links £ 45.00
Honda CB125TD-C - one ACTUALLY worth doing! £360.00
Frame & Arm Sand-Blasting £ 40.00
Tyress £ 70.00
Inner-Tubes £ 20.00
Battery £ 20.00
Chain and Spocket Kit (Extreme X-Ring) £ 54.99
Wheel Bearing £ 24.00
Wheel Bearing Seals £ 10.00
Rear Shock-Absorber (std) £ 80.00
Rear Swing-Arm Bushes £ 24.00
Rear Swing-Arm Pivot Pin £ 16.62
Head-Race Bearings (Taper Roller) £ 27.03
Master Cylinder Overhaul Kit £ 25.85
Parts to Overhaul Caliper £ 46.00
Front Brake Pads £ 9.99
Brake Hose - Goodritch Braided £ 21.00
Rear Brake Shoes £ 8.23
Brake Lever £ 5.88
Clutch Lever £ 5.88
Chrome Bash-Bars (These were NOT part of the deal!) £ 28.00

To Get
Suspension Link Bushes (Hate to Guess!)
Front Fork Re-Chrome (Quoted £160)
Front Fork Seal (DSS 6.46)
Front Fork Gater (Busters 7.99)
Cush Drive Bushes (DSS 4.64ea)
Other Stuff TBD!

Excluding the 'Heap' which comprises the first bike bought, the one that pretended to be a twin-shock; something that doesn't have a dozen hard to get at, get out, source and re-fit bludy bushes in its suspension........ and the garage clear-out job-lot of bits we bought to get a frame with an unbutchered swing-arm, and all the links we needed to make a propper CB125TD-C from, which demanded the brand-new £80 shock-absorber..... the bill for what has been PAID for so far comes to just a few pennies over £900.

This has NOT got the us a rolling chassis yet. This has NOT looked at ANYTHING in the engine department. And it DONT include the gallons of paint being perloined from my other projects being thrown at it by the ruddy gallon!

Take HEED. The idea you can buy a bike 'cheap' and 'do it up' is a falacy. Bikes that NEED doing up tend to need a LOT of doing up!

Ecconomics of the business are NOT in your favour. YES we could have cut a lot of corners if we were JUST trying to get a serviceable motorbike, but it would not have saved MANY penies, and a if you cut corners building a bike, you risk not getting round'em when you ride it!

This bike Cost £350, and we might have made ecconomies by merely cleaning up the old brakes and suspension, and using the tyres that were on it. But, it would have STILL been an 'old-nail', nothing more, and it would STILL have cost more than one I bought the other day, 'The Black-One' (when she gets round to mentioning it, that is in brilliant original condition, will have a full 12months tax and test on it, and sell, probably for about £700.... hardly what we have spent on PARTS on this bike so far!

Also note the effup in my buying 'the Heap'! This is the KIND of risk you face, buying tatty old bikes..... and I thought I was the kind of anorack that could spot that kind of thing quite easy, having been about bikes all my life, and fixed and fettled so many of them!

This is NOT a game for the feint hearted! BUT all WILL be well....

Oh... and one last thing.... she has just five weeks left to get this thing built back up and presented for test.......... THAT is the dead-line, becouse at THAT point kids break up for school holidays and will want the garden back!

And this is her FIRST project. Last October, I had to teach her how to tension the chain on that cruisery thing! So she is NOT exactly an 'experienced' mechanic!

But, 'enthusiasm', she has in spades, I'll tell you!

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

nowhere.elysium · The Pork Lord Joined: 02 Mar 2009 Karma :

£900

Christicles.
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'10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Errr.

There are certain elements of that motorcycle that look distressingly familiar to me.

The "battery box" is one. As are the bits of inner tube for the seat to rest on.

The CM125 2-1 carb manifold being another. Does it have a single CB125TDC carb attached?

Is the fuel tank sediment bowl made of mostly plastic metal?

Last time I saw my CB125TDC, it was being used as a prop in a B-movie some of my mates were making.

It got thrown off a cliff with a dummy attached twice, "blown up" several times with stage maroons and was then chucked in a skip somewhere near Hawick.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

nightshaddow · Nearly there... Joined: 18 Feb 2008 Karma :

i love these little bikes, i have one in bits in my shed waiting to be rebuilt (with out the frame which was beyond repair after sandblasting) i will be watching with interest
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"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

Are you on CBT? I could be wrong but I believe the Cb125 tdc is illegal for learners to use as it has too much power.

Not that you have an icicle's chance in hell of being caught.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

Nice to see like a typical woman you changed outfits halfway through Laughing

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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

chris-red · Have you considered a TDM? Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :

nightshaddow · Nearly there... Joined: 18 Feb 2008 Karma :

seeing as you have so many bikes there is there a half decent frame possibly maybe for purchase... sandblasting a 26year old frame as it was was a bad idea after it was left in a garden for probably 20 of them years lol
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"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

nightshaddow · Nearly there... Joined: 18 Feb 2008 Karma :

would very much appreciate it, and i wouldent worry to much as i said i think the thing was in a garden unprotected for around 20 years, some bits of the frame broke off while i was stripping it down,

i have alot of knowlage with these bikes i have owned 3 up to now so any info or problems if you need anything just shout Thumbs Up

and good luck with pup Very Happy

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"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Frame has gone for blasting. But a big bag of bits has turned up from Dave Silver Spares. More parcels from other people off e-bay.
So, while I wait for the frame to come back, time to have a crack at reconditioning the brakes.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0723.jpg
Pulling out the old pistons with a pair of mole grips. This kills them.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0724.jpg
But I had brand new ones to replace them with.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0753.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0725.jpg
Seals removed 'Carefuly' by b/f with 'Something-Pointy' (See I'm getting to grips with the technical terminology of mechanics!)
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0728.jpg
I HATE washing up! Thought this mechanics lark would be like playing mechano, but b/f has me at the kitchen sink CLEANING stuff, more than I'm am twiddling spanners!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0729.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0731.jpg

Pointy Things, Tooth-Brushes, drill bits; b/f kept sending me back to scrape & scrub and make these brake bits METICULOUSELY clean. He said that any 'crud' left in the internals of the brake bits could block the ports and valves and stuff and stop the brake working, so I guess he has a point about this cleaning m'larky!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0733.jpg
So If I have to be chained to the kitchen sink, I'll get HIM doing drilling!
Actually, THIS was the reason that this brake didn't work. Screw wouldn't come out of the brake fluid filler, so it had never been filled! B/F VERY CAREFULLY drilled it out.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0736.jpg
So carefully that he was left with just the rim of the head on the drill bit, and most of the shaft of the screw still in the hole. GOD he's GOOD..... or so HE says anyway!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0738.jpg
Cap lifed off the stubb of screw, the end could be gripped with the trusty mole-grips. B/F bought this pair at Machine Mart when he got me my socket set. They were expensive. I over-looked that fact, because he was buying me toys.... sorry, TOOLS... and he has been raving about how fantastic they are ever since! Have to admit though, they DID do the trick here!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0737.jpg
HA! Got HIM with his hands in soapy water! All that stale pee coloured stuff is aparently solidified brake fluid. It ALL had to be scraped and scrubbed out.
THEN the master cylinder piston and seals can be removed. Dont ask. I watched. and I STILL dont understand it. Well I do. Its all held in with a little clip. a RUSTY little clip. Burried a long way down a hole. And it takes MUCH swearing, trying every single pair of funny pliers in the b/f's big tool box, and eventually comes out with the patented 'pointy-thing'!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0744.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0742.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0745.jpg
After putting the blunt end of a drill in the port in the filler reservoir to hold the piston back.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0747.jpg
DONT pull the drill out though, unless you have your thumb over the cylinder to stop the piston flying out..... as shown!
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0749.jpg
anyway, THATS whats inside the master cylinder, the old bits above, the nice new ones below.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0750.jpg
But before they can go in, its BACK to the kitchen sink.... a-gain!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0755.jpg
But once thoroughly cleaned and dried in an oven to make sure there is no crud and no water of ANYTHING left in the castings.... castings.... see I'm really getting the lingo here, they'd've bin 'bits' to me last week!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes//imag0757.jpg
They can be masked up for painting, so they look good as well as work good.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0758.jpg
all the holes and stuff where bits move or bolt have to be covered up so paint dont get in there and gumm up the workings.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0759.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0760.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0761.jpg
Thats the Caliper masked. The Master Cylinder was done the same way.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0788.jpg
The Caliper was painted in matt heat-proof paint, becouse they can get hot, aparently, and it was cured after spraying in the oven. But SOME-ONE forgot to take 'photo's, as they were too busy messing with another motorbike!

Once painted and cured, masking removed, and the casting YE A BLUDY GAIN, washed and thoroughly dried, (To make sure theres no dust or paint residues or ANYTHING inside... its time to try and put it to gether again.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0791.jpg
Main seals go in first, in the lower groove. They are the thicker ones, and are square in section. Takes a bit of 'wiggling' but they do go in. I have an advantage here with little lady's fingers! Tip, wipe them with brake fluid first to lubricate them.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0794.jpg
'Wiper' seals go in next, in the upper groove. These are the thinner rings and have a groove in the face. BOTH rings have to go in neatly without being twisted or kinked or anything.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0795.jpg
Once the seals are in place and seated comfortably, then the pistons can be pushed in. Again they go in a lot easier if you dip the end in brake fluid to lube them first. You DO have to be careful to get them in square and not dislonge a seal as you push them in though. Case of being firm but fair! They will take a bit of pressure to go in, you cant tickle them, but get ham-fisted and you'll get them jammed and possibly pinch one of the new seals.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0796.jpg
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https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0799.jpg
But once they are 'in' they should go all the way fairly easily.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0800.jpg
Next the brake pads anti-rattle clip can be fitted.Given some coppa-slip to stop it squeeking ir rusting, and after coppa-slipping tha back of the brake pads they can be fitted too.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0802.jpg
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Next come the pad-pins, which can again be coppa-slipped before pushing through the pads. These often rust in the holes in the caliper and the pads stopping the brake work properly & making changing the pads a pain. A we were reconditioning the caliper we used brand new pad pins, & my B/F had me 'ream' the holes for them in the caliper out with a drill before we started re-assembling it.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0806.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0808.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0817.jpg
Next job is to re-assemble the float-pins. Note that the pads have been wedged part with a bit of card-board to stop them waggl;ing about until the caliper if fitted, and the hole for the brake pipe mashed off to stop crud getting in before its all put fully back together.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0815.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0816.jpg
The float pins are a pain. B/F said there was a 'trick' to it, and then cocked it up! Theres two rubber grommits and a sleeve. Sleeve goes through the caliper body, rubber grommet goes on either end, clipping into a groove on the end of the sleeve, and another in the caliper body!
The 'Trick' I think he eventually discovered is you put ONE gromet into the caliper body, then push the sleeve through from the other side, and push it FURTHER than the gromet, so you have an empty hole to put the other grommet into. THEN you can push the sleeve back and fiddle the grommets into the grooves on either end of the sleeve.
Its not easy. Especially if everything is all slippery with coppa-slip, because you dont want it rusting or siezing!
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0817.jpg
Gromet on the OTHER pin just clips over the lip of the hole on the caliper mount. Dead easy, BUT as B/F pointed out, DONT use TOO much coppa-slip of it'll all squrt out when you push the pin in, and or stop the pin floating properly.
In fact, you ought to be sparing with the coppa-slip in MOST places, as you dont want any getting on the brake pads or anything!
Finally, and I didn't get pictures of it, a new bleed nipple and nipple cover can be fitted, and the pad retaining plate screwed down over the pad-pins to hold them in place.
And EVERYTHING tightened up to the torque specifications in the Haynes manual.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag0814.jpg
OH.... Tip: WHEN you paint the caliper body, if you want it to look REALLY nice when its all 'done'...... dont forget to paint the pad retaining plate!
Might get round to doing the Master Cylinder next, but first, more painting.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/painting%20bits/imag0830.jpg
oh and i finally managed to strip my own tank back to metal..and its just had its first coat of primer
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/plastics%20and%20tank/imag0855.jpg
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https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/plastics%20and%20tank/imag0856.jpg
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Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

TUG · World Chat Champion Joined: 12 May 2007 Karma :

I cringed at the amount of copper grease, only need a thin smear.
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Haz ER-5, innit!

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

I Just thought; Thats not YOUR tank, dear, thats the 'spare' tank I bought!

But you can have it..... I'll swap you for the one that came off your bike....... that's still full of petrol!

And you prepped 3 of them, so you could to find the one in the best shape to go on your bike!!!

STOP blaming ME for finding you work! You'll start accusing me of DELIBERATELY getting cloths dirty next!

Anyway, to add a little to what Donnas put; FIRST of all, yes, my frekled fingers are in a lot of the shots on the brakes, becouse, well, this is a safety critical system, & I've done more than a few in my time. Six months ago, Donna needed help to tension her own chain! And we DO NOT want this bit of the job cocked up!

BUT she has done a LOT more than look over my shoulder while I did all the work. I did one piston & seals, she did the other, and she did almost ALL the component cleaning, I just gave them an inspection and final rinse to be sure of them.

This girl REALLY is getting ger hands dirty on this project, I can tell you!

MOLE-GRIPS!

Horendouse tool! A device used by most as a universal spanner to round of fastener heads and putgouge marks in critical surfaces. I HATE the things for how badly most get used. Not helped by the fact that so many of them slip of thier own accord becouse they are made of chitty monkey-metal, coming as part of a 1001 piece tool-kit.

BUT, GOOD Mole-Grips, PROPERLY used are an INVALUABLE addition to the arsenal or tools.

That pair, Clarke-Pro from Machine mart, I got last week, to replace the pair I discovered hidden in the bottom of my tool box, brutalised by one of those people who ask questions like,

"Do you have anything to get the big-nut of the handle-bars of mi BMX?"

Who you dont really want to let loose in your tool box, but who ask you while you are balencing a Range-Rover exhaust mid-box or something on your head, while wrestling with the hanging rubbers, and WONT take "FUCK OFF" for an answer!

So you say, '"Yeah, look in the tool-box" expecting them to borrow a 'Spanner'..... more fool ME, I guess!

But back to the mole-grips. If you MUST have a pair, get GOOD ones, and use them properly. Like on stuff that DONT have a nicely formed head to take a spanner, socket, or drive 'bit', and which doesn't matter if it gets chewed up!

I wont mention 'patent pokie-tool'! I cannot BELIEVE that bloody circlip defied half a dozen pair of circlip pliers, only to come out with the tip of an electrical test probe!

And YES, I let go of the drill bit holding the master cylinder piston back, before I got my thumb over the end! I have banana-fingers! Thats MY excuse & I'm sticking to it!

Restoring the Levers and switches; pictures are a bit ad-hoc, so to explain:

Parts were cleaned. Lightly sanded and then primered. Primer was force cured by hanging infront of the oven. THEN they were sprayed black.

At this point the lettering was cleaned out with another patent pokie thing, and a little carefully applied paint stripper.

Then washed, and dried infront of the oven again, before the letter detailing was picked out on Flourescent Orange.

For Note; airfix modelers paint, available at any good model or art & craft shop: Humbrol Enamel, Gloss 209

Its a VERY close match to the original lettering colour.

Paint is a bit 'thick', and the pigment tends to sink to the bottom of the pot. TIP dont shake or stir the tin. Get a lemonade bottle cap, then using a cocktail stick, gloop a thick bit of pigment out of the tin into the cap, use the paint-brush to decant the thinners from the top of the tin nto the cap and mix with stick to a thick-ish consistency thats pigment ritch, before applying to part, with brush.

This DOESN'T have to be too neatly done, but of the paints mixed right it should flow into the recesses of the lettering fairly well.

Reason for mixing it ritch is to get the pigment to settle in the letters. Use it as it comes from the tin, & it will spread and only leave a little colour & you'll be repeating coats from here to next christmas!

Allow to cure, for a couple of hours, then you can polish excess paint from around the letters with T-Cut or solvol, LIGHTLY, then wash in warm soapy water to remove any residues of polish, and leave the lettering bright in the recesses.

The whole part can then be sprayed with laquer to hold & protect & make the part all nice & shiney! (Donna has yet to complete that last stage)

For concourse anoraks, YES, this IS an element of 'over', and 'innacurate' restoration; original part only had one coat of 'gun-metal' colour paint, not black straight on the metal, and no laquer over the lettering.

And while on the subject of paint, its the 'finishing touch' to restoring a part, NOT the restoration itself!

As the pics of the caliper rebuild show, 90% of the job is in the cleaningto make a part fit to take new seals, bearings, pistons or what-ever.

That done, you COULD simply put the part back together and bolt it back on, would work great, but not look like it had had much attension.

Chucking a bit of paint at it then, while you have it in that state can REALLY make the difference and make it LOOK like the jobs been done.

If you just take a part off and paint it though, it wont. Its the effort of getting the thing cleaned to take the paint that makes it look good.

If you dont take the part apart to paint it though, you will normally not be able to get it clean enough to take paint, or you'll be making life hard for yourself masking stuff off so bits that you dont want painted dont get coloured, OR you'll end up with paint on bits were its not helpful, and either way, it probably wont end up looking that great!

Back to The Accounts. Two cans of primer, one of black, have been added to the bill at a cost of £5.99 each. The pot of Humbrol 209, cost £1.45, and has enough paint in it to probably do the switches on a dozen bikes... cheap finishing touch!

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

nightshaddow · Nearly there... Joined: 18 Feb 2008 Karma :

i just love this thread not just a good thread but an epic sitcom at the same time Thumbs Up

[quote]Fork Oil:- Alternative volumes & grades?
Standard is ATF, WTF is that the equivelence of vs upty weight fork oil? Ever tried an alternative?[quote]

i use this stuff

https://img812.imageshack.us/img812/8893/forkoil.jpg
____________________
"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

Freaky_1 · Nova Slayer Joined: 12 May 2010 Karma :

Quickly becoming a favorite thread!

Looks like you're fitting some fun in there............ as i should be!

Enjoy!
Frank

Grimnir · Trackday Trickster Joined: 11 May 2010 Karma :