Rear Pads

[rac3r]

My rear pads are just about shot on the Monster and whatever was in there was absolutely crap!

Any advice on a replacement? I know it's only the rears so I don't want anything too 'good' that will keep locking up all the time. Also a link to where I can get them would be good
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Bikes : 2006 CBR125R - 2004 Monster 620ie - 2004 ZX-6R B1H - 2005 Monster S2R 800 - 2011 Street Triple - 2009 Streetfighter 1098 - 2014 ZX-6R 636

[Rob W]

Look on eBay for a set of Goldfren's, half the price of the competition and easily as good IME.
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'90 TS50 > '04 Senda 125 > '91 ZXR400 > '90 CB-1 > '04 GSX-R1000 > '96 Bandit 600 > '89 ZXR750 H1 > '96 GSX-R750 SRAD > '98 RR-W Fireblade > '98 T595 Daytona > '03 Hornet 900 > '04 Fireblade > '16 GSX-S1000F (x2) > '23 XSR900

[rac3r]

Err...

Goldfren Carbon Cermic £12.99

Brembo rears £20


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Bikes : 2006 CBR125R - 2004 Monster 620ie - 2004 ZX-6R B1H - 2005 Monster S2R 800 - 2011 Street Triple - 2009 Streetfighter 1098 - 2014 ZX-6R 636

[LeeR]

I've put some Kyoto organic pads from Wemoto on my DL1000 (sintered are just too much for the suspension) and they're a lot better than the OEM Nissin pads, dunno how they'd behave on a Monster but for £10/pair it might just be worth a try.
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My claim to fame: Austin Vince nicked my pen...

[rac3r]

What I want to know is are the Brembo pads so good they cost double or is it just the badge as usual?
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Bikes : 2006 CBR125R - 2004 Monster 620ie - 2004 ZX-6R B1H - 2005 Monster S2R 800 - 2011 Street Triple - 2009 Streetfighter 1098 - 2014 ZX-6R 636

[Marmalade]

Go with the goldfren HH, last ok and stop good, i use them on Pan euro and zzr6
If they work too well and keep locking up, you could try some WD40 on the discs or maybe a riding school
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[KLR600]

I used to be a Goldfren endorsee but the last set of rear pads I bought had both the braking surfaces fall off the metal bit of the pad Won't be going there again.
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[Dazbo666]

I used Kyoto pads on the GPZ in the past, and I'd highly recommend them. Seemed to be just as good as the EBC / OEM pads that they replaced, and about 60% of the price.

On the other end of the scale, I recently used some cheapo Armstrong pads on the Bandit, and managed to wear the front pads almost down to the metal in <2 months
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1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF

[chris-red]

I'd go EBC or Brembo, Last time I bought shit pads I changed them for good ones after a few hundred miles anyway. Anyway what is £8 over 10,000 miles or however long they last,
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[rac3r]

[Rob W]

[rac3r]

Quick question: Do you guys remove the calliper when changing pads? My haynes manual says to do it without removing
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Bikes : 2006 CBR125R - 2004 Monster 620ie - 2004 ZX-6R B1H - 2005 Monster S2R 800 - 2011 Street Triple - 2009 Streetfighter 1098 - 2014 ZX-6R 636

[Rob W]

[rac3r]

I can see it being a bit fiddly without taking them off

If I take them off I'll probably clean them too. When putting them back on do they HAVE to be the exact torque settings or can I just do them tight. (I have no way of measuring the torque)
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Bikes : 2006 CBR125R - 2004 Monster 620ie - 2004 ZX-6R B1H - 2005 Monster S2R 800 - 2011 Street Triple - 2009 Streetfighter 1098 - 2014 ZX-6R 636

[Dazbo666]

Yes I take them off. Not sure how I'd do it without removing them TBH.
I keep the brake lines connected so that I don't have to re-bleed the system. And I'm just careful not to twist or stress the lines or connections etc unneccessarily while fiddling with the calipers and pads.

I changed the front pads on the Bandit just yesterday. Prob <20 minutes for both sides, including the time it took to find the right sized sockets etc

[EDIT: I don't use a torque wrench very often (and never used it on caliper bolts. I tend to tighten the bolts with a socket wrench until there's resistamce, then tighten maybe a further eighth of a turn.
Disclaimer : I don't claim that this is the proper, and certainly not the official technique, but it's worked for me for years, including the time that I worked at a commercial HGV garage.]
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1st bike (Sept'06 - May'10) : 1991 GPZ500S / Current bike (since Nov 2009) : 2003 Suzuki Bandit 600N
Word of the day : DILLIGAF

[chris-red]

Some calipers you can load from the top without taking them off, personally I clean my Brake pistons when I change the pads so would take them off.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Rob W]