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aha-shake
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Joined: 27 May 2006
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 06 Oct 2010    Post subject: CBR600F Buzz Reply with quote

Lo all,

Just got myself a 2003 CBR600F, it seems to be a really well cared for example, and its got loads of service history, so all good.

My question is - It seems to have a bit of a buzz around about 4.5k revs, which I think/hope is just resonance through the bike, but it also seems to me to be a little noisy at idle after a session, which I think is the cam chain?

By noisy I mean, the sound seems to eminate from the cylinder heads, and does sound like a chain.. but it isnt that loud.

Any ideas and is it anything to worry about?

Cheers, Shake
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Paxovasa
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 06 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

A fly in your lid Laughing
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Benson_JV
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 06 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cam chain?
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Willson - "If you go out on that CBR600 in the winter, you're going to do more miles on your side than on your wheels."
Riding: CBR600FW Driving: Audi A6
Previous Bikes: '96 Bandit 600, '96 GPz305
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Acemastr
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 06 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

My CBR is noticeably more vibey at 4-6k revs, then is smooth as silk at 7k. just the bike.

If it sounds like a marble in the engine, it's the cam chain.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 07 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stick an ear to each side of the engine, if it is louder on the right then I'd bet my right bollock on it being the cam chain tensioner.

Had to replace mine a while ago, sounded like someone shaking bolts in a frying pan at 5-6k. Tapped a bit at idle too although part of that was a blowing downpipe.

Quite easy to replace if it is although you will want a mate with very small hands. Jeremy Beadle would have been perfect Mr. Green .


There is a split opinion on how bad it is to leave it noisy, some say it is just a pin in the tensioner vibrating around and is not a problem minus the noise, others say it is the chain itself that has gone slack which could be a disaster. I tend to err on the side of caution so I replaced it, I went OEM for simplicity has been silent since Thumbs Up . Others use manual tensioners rather than automatic like the honda one, this means you just adjust it yourself every now and again and it will never fail if you do it right, may screw it up if you do it wrong though.

P.S. Post up a pic of your new bike biatch Thumbs Up .
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aha-shake
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 20 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the bolts in a frying pan description is exactly right, at about 5.5k...

So sounds like its definitely the cam chain, does anyone have the knowhow to talk me through what i'll need to do? I have a basic mechanical understanding, and a workshop and tools!

Any help would be really appreciated!

Cheers, Shake
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 20 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

aha-shake wrote:
Yeah, the bolts in a frying pan description is exactly right, at about 5.5k...

So sounds like its definitely the cam chain, does anyone have the knowhow to talk me through what i'll need to do? I have a basic mechanical understanding, and a workshop and tools!

Any help would be really appreciated!

Cheers, Shake


You will need a socket set with a (i think 5mm hex bit (like an allen key on a socket) will check the size tonight). You'll need a flexible joint and a few extensions too, some engine oil to grease the threads and a new tensioner and gasket. A ratchetting strap will be very useful as it means you might not need to fully remove the tank.

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CBR600F3-2003/part_60340/

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CBR600F3-2003/part_60339/

I got part way through writing a guide when found this link when I was looking for some photos I uploaded to CBR forum while back:

https://cbrforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116975

This has better pictures than me and seems good so use it Thumbs Up .

Only thing to note is that you could also move the tank another way without removing the tank completely by ratchetting it up. That guys way doesn't seem like it will give much access, the hoses on mine were quite tight and I don't think that would have worked. Will post pics later.

Need help then feel free to ask Thumbs Up .


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 14:27 - 20 Oct 2010; edited 4 times in total
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 20 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tank raising:

https://cbrforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8962&d=1273001976
https://cbrforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8961&d=1273001970

Basically - take the rubbers and washers out of the front of the tank and pass a strap through it. Taking the tank off is a PITA as fuel WILL spill all over you and your bike when you take the hose off of the throttle bodies, I'd try and get at the CCT with the tank in place first. You can always remove it afterwards; if you do remove it, be sure not to over torque the cap nut and I would use two new 12mm aluminium crush washers to seal it. I almost crashed on the motorway when it bucked and stalled from a fuelling problem due to a fuel leak here Shocked .

The photos are for a speed sensor swap howto I wrote, the first parts are the same for the CCT swap - you will need to only take off the RHS fairing off though:

https://cbrforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110034
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aha-shake
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PostPosted: 08:03 - 21 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help mate, picking up the part today so will hopefully be done by tonight. Any idea how long this took you? An hour?

Cheers, Shake Thumbs Up
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 21 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

aha-shake wrote:
Thanks for the help mate, picking up the part today so will hopefully be done by tonight. Any idea how long this took you? An hour?

Cheers, Shake Thumbs Up


It took me a bit longer (i.e. about hour and a half) as I had to take my tank off and was paranoid about checking everything over multiple times when I put it back on.

When you have the tensioner out, you need to make sure you don't turn the engine over as this could potentially cause the cam chain to skip a tooth. Stick it on it's centre stand, in neutral and don't touch the back wheel Thumbs Up . Also, make sure the new tensioner you buy has two blue blobs painted on it, this is the 'enhanced' design - supposed to take a little longer to fail again.
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aha-shake
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 21 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks mate, got the job done today, took me about 2 hours with faffing around..

The new unit had two blobs so all good!

Results wise, it is definitely much, much better, as there I can no longer hear any buzz whilst riding, so very happy! Still sounds a little noisy when im stood next to it but I think thats just paranoia!

Cheers for the help, Shake Mr. Green
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 08:34 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

aha-shake wrote:
Thanks mate, got the job done today, took me about 2 hours with faffing around..

The new unit had two blobs so all good!

Results wise, it is definitely much, much better, as there I can no longer hear any buzz whilst riding, so very happy! Still sounds a little noisy when im stood next to it but I think thats just paranoia!

Cheers for the help, Shake Mr. Green


Good stuff Thumbs Up , I don't worry about the noise; every CBR I have ever stood near has been a bit noisy, the clutch baskets are a known source of noise. If it is a tapping sound then check the downpipes for holes, otherwise it's probably nothing.
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