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Drilling Out advice please

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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Drilling Out advice please Reply with quote

The sidestand bolts broke off the CCM today, was fun trying to catch the bike when you really weren't expecting it.

Anyway... the stand attaches to two 17mm diameter cylinders that are welded to the frame to act as lugs. They are about 25mm deep and one of the bolts has snapped off flush inside so a fair bit of metal to drill through.

I was at it for about 20 minutes solid before it got dark, and barely seem to have made a dent.

I'm using a cheap drill, but decent cobalt drill bits. It is cutting, as I can see the swarf coming off, and I was drilling as slowly as I could with the drill as i've read it cuts better slowly.

Was just wondering if it's usual for it to take forever? I am starting with a 2.5mm and seem to have got it in the middle and straight. But just not making much progress.

I may be drilling it out to M10 from the current M8 to give more strength.

Any tips? Am I doing it wrong?
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lukamon
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

burnt out bit? you did have like a cup of water or something next to you? drillint metal creates a LOt of heat so once every 10 - 15 secs dunk it Thumbs Up
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Blue_SV650S
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

2.5mm is too small a pilot.

I'd use 4mm, you can put more 'weight' on it to help it eat in a bit and you are far less likely to snap it off part way in the 'ole and cause yourself a lot of bother!!! Wink
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SoND
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill at full speed with small bits with light-medium pressure, occasionally backing off a little to let it cool. The drill bit will have a little flex in it but as soon as you notice ease up.

There's a good chance your cheap drill bit is blunt. Take a look at the cutting edges and see if they're rounded. To sharpen it all you have to do is freshen up that edge, a little touch with a grinder will be enough. Don't go mad taking off loads of material, good chance you'll ruin the shape.

2.5mm is a little on the small side, 3-5mm will cut through it comfortably as a pilot. A slightly larger bit is easier to put a lot of force into it without breaking it though it's still easy snapped. Sometimes if you're not used to drilling metal you will be suprised how much you have to press into it. Surprised

Once you get the pilot drilled the others will fly through it. When you're using the larger bits don't go quite full speed and use plenty of pressure, if the bit is sharpened nicely it will want to cut through the metal at its own speed nice and smooth. If you're too fast and violent you'll start chipping the cutting edge.

Have you plenty of spare material to drill it out to 10?
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Have you plenty of spare material to drill it out to 10?


Not sure, I would guess so. It's 17mm diameter, so a 10mm hole leaves it with just over 3 mm wall. What are your thoughts?

I could probably drill it out and keep it at 8mm, though its likely i'll mess up the threads on the way so thought it would be better to go up a size.

If it gives out, I could possibly grind the crap mounts off the frame and weld better ones on.
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SoND
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

lukamon wrote:
burnt out bit? you did have like a cup of water or something next to you? drillint metal creates a LOt of heat so once every 10 - 15 secs dunk it Thumbs Up


Don't need to bother. They're going to go blunt anyway so learn how to sharpen them.
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

While we are at it, any particular brand of cobalt drill bits considered the dog dangly bits?
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SoND
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

WildGoose wrote:
Not sure, I would guess so. It's 17mm diameter, so a 10mm hole leaves it with just over 3 mm wall. What are your thoughts?


If you can keep it 8mm I'd stick to it, a bolt is easier to fix than a mounting point.

I wouldn't waste money on expensive drill bits for home, easy to break and if you're not using them constantly you won't notice a huge difference.

Saying that, silly cheap bits are a waste of time, don't go near them. Badly sharpened and made of cheese.
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if I go through at 4 or 5 mm and use an easy out or something to extract the stud (assuming that works), that would be the way to go?
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SoND
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you broke it trying to take it out then it's seized badly, an extractor will just break in it and you really don't want that stuck in there.

Drill it to 6.5 or 1/4" (6.3) and carefully use an 8mm tap. Go slowly and as soon as it sticks, reverse a little to clear the tool and cut the next bit. Cutting oil really helps here but a small drop of engine oil will do the job.

All of these drill bits will be good quality.
https://www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk/CGI/INSRCH?N=4360

Carbide bits are the real danglies. You pay for them if you want. Wink £48.50 for a single 11mm. Holy shit!

Carbide bits
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

As an apprentice I was taught that a masonry drill bit, when sharpened correctly, will cut through most metal easily.
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SoND
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
As an apprentice I was taught that a masonry drill bit, when sharpened correctly, will cut through most metal easily.


Masonry bits will be nice and hard. The flutes are rounder so clearing the swarf may not be quite as good and you can't go by the size stamped on it when you take off the original tip. No reason it wouldn't work, much better option than bits for wood.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoND wrote:
lukamon wrote:
burnt out bit? you did have like a cup of water or something next to you? drillint metal creates a LOt of heat so once every 10 - 15 secs dunk it Thumbs Up


Don't need to bother. They're going to go blunt anyway so learn how to sharpen them.

The main problem with overheating a drill bit is that the temper of the bit is lost. Once this has happened then you might as well throw it away as it will never again retain a sharp cutting edge.
The best drilling method that I have found is to use a combination of heavy pressure and slow drill speed. I also regularly immerse the bit in 3-in-1 oil as this cools the bit and also reduces the friction at the cutting edge which in itself helps to keep the bit cool.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 22 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Squirt water over the area you're drilling from an old washing up bottle to cool the bit. If you're getting steam, you're either going too fast or not using enough water.

I would go with drilling it out as close to the threads as you dare. You can usually then collapse the "shell" of bolt that's left in there with a punch get hold of an end with some pliers and screw it out.

If the holes go all the way through, you may find at some point that the bit hooks up and screws the bolt out through the back. Usually the next one up after you drilled the pilot hole.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 24 Oct 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The best drilling method that I have found is to use a combination of heavy pressure and slow drill speed. I also regularly immerse the bit in 3-in-1 oil as this cools the bit and also reduces the friction at the cutting edge which in itself helps to keep the bit cool.

this is almost exactly the method i use, successfully.
cheap oil from poundland as the cutting oil & keep the bit cool by spraying with brake cleaner or water.
drill slowly & keep pressure on it.
i start with a 3mm bit & work up.
dewalt cobalt drill bits are the ones i use & i have drilled through some seriously hard, thick metals.
i have yet to find a situation that warrants a carbide bit.
cheers,
GAZ
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