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Rotary tools/Dremels -> Advice on fairing repairs please

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nick.h
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 13 May 2011    Post subject: Rotary tools/Dremels -> Advice on fairing repairs please Reply with quote

I'm in need of one of these to do some fairing repairs.

I'm thinking:

Dremel
Plastic weld/Upol filler
Sand paper - various
primer
paint

Is it worth being the cheap ones 'silverline' are are dremel worth the extra?

Also any advice on fairing repairs would be great, as i've got it all to do, scratches, cracks and rebuilding missing parts.

Thanks, Nick
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Last edited by nick.h on 15:42 - 13 May 2011; edited 1 time in total
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 13 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd like to think that the Dremel tooling is a better quality than the Aldi ones i foolishly bought.

BTW dremel tooling doesn't fit the Aldi one.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 13 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dremel tools themselves are pretty good and possibly worth it, reckon any good branded one would be good enough too though. I'd probably avoid a really cheap tool though just because everyone complains about them online.

Dremel branded accessories are horrendously priced, buy all the bits etc online without dremel branding for cheap: fibre reinforced cutting wheels is what you will need for most things and the cheap ebay ones are really good.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 15:32 - 13 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

best one i had was a 20 quid argos job, challenger i think.
used it every other day for drilling & cutting steel etc.
more torque than the cordless dremel i have now.
lasted 4 or 5 yrs, which isnt much for tools, but i did really use it though.....
i'd certainly buy another cheap corded one...
cheers,
GAZ
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 13 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got an aldi one,
seems to be pretty awesome although i havnt found many excuses to play with it yet Neutral

-Jvr
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nick.h
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 13 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well that lasted long, just brought this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-79340-230-Volt-Multitool-Accessories/dp/B000ELJ0HY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1305299659&sr=8-4

Advice on fairing repairs/products/decent guides to use would be great Thumbs Up
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nick.h
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 15 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sod's Law!!

I was in wilkinsons today and saw the draper I have just bought for £18

Good deal, but couldn't cancel my order
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Frost
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 15 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest all replacement plastic i've ever attempted has been shit in comparison to well done fibreglass. They do a tissue like fibre which if used in many thin layers works very very well. course you have to make sure it bonds properly.
Filler is useful, what's it called? P-38?
Don't be tempted to use primer or colour to fill in scratches. Always turns out shit.
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 15 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the subject of fibreglass, i found it gets really brittle and cracked.
It could have been that i used fastglass that cures really quickly (<5 mins to work with the stuff), so when i get time i'll remove what i did and try it with less resin and maybe some woven cloth...

To make a good mating surfact I found a regular drill bit (not wood), in a dremmel and used at a 45 degree angle would leave a mighty rough finnish (for fibreglassing inside/out of sight).

For melting plastic, not worth it if its a load baring area, fibre glass may last longer!

If you are doing many pannels and have time, start with the least visible one and try a technique, see how it goes and if it goes well, carry on the same or else change the technique maybe?

Best rwegards

-Jvr
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Frost
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PostPosted: 21:13 - 15 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

skatefreak wrote:
On the subject of fibreglass, i found it gets really brittle and cracked.
It could have been that i used fastglass that cures really quickly (<5 mins to work with the stuff), so when i get time i'll remove what i did and try it with less resin and maybe some woven cloth...


It's a composite, so the 2 parts need to work together. The resin mix is brittle and hard. The weave is flexible, put the 2 together and what you get is greater than the sum of the parts. You can adjust the setting time by putting in more or less harder. Mixing it COMPLETELY is essential.

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_161949_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

Is shit.

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_161890_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

Is what you want. It's really thin, so do 4-5 layers to tack it in place, then another 4-5 layers, followed by another 4-5 layers. Doing it all in 1 thick lot always fails. Use as little resin mix as you can till the final layer.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 00:15 - 16 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the fairing etc is made from ABS then using fibreglass to repair it is just wrong from the start.

But go ahead anyway as countless people will disagree with me, & when you get done, you might want to try pissing into the wind.
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