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Carb balancing fail.

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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 01:40 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Carb balancing fail. Reply with quote

Hi guys.

I balanced my carbs on my ZZR600E the other day. What I did was I turned up the idle to just over 2000rpm, then I:

Balanced 1 and 2 using the screw on the far left

Balanced 3 and 4 using the screw on the far right

Then balanced 1 and 2 with 3 and 4 using the middle screw.

Unfortunately the bike is a lot louder sounding now for some reason and vibrating a lot more. It feels and sounds like a lot like a twin.

When accelerating hard from a standing start I can't use too much throttle or it bogs down.

I was wondering what it could be. I am aware that reassembly of the airbox (especially of the ram air tubes) is important to the bike not running like shite, but I was extra careful.

Thanks for any tips guys.
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you put all the covers back properly on the vacuum offtake spigots you used for the gauges or is one damaged and leaking air?
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69chris
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I did was I turned up the idle to just over 2000rpm,

why ?? Confused
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

69chris wrote:
What I did was I turned up the idle to just over 2000rpm,

why ?? Confused
Most manuals tell you to do this when balancing the carbs, I reckon it's in case the revs drop when the carbs are balanced whcih may cause it to cut out and also to get a steadier reading. The last thing you do is reset the idle again.
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69chris
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

yen_powell wrote:
69chris wrote:
What I did was I turned up the idle to just over 2000rpm,

why ?? Confused
Most manuals tell you to do this when balancing the carbs, I reckon it's in case the revs drop when the carbs are balanced whcih may cause it to cut out and also to get a steadier reading. The last thing you do is reset the idle again.


that'l be us not reading manuals then Laughing

have always done the job with the bike at its normal idle speed and adjusted tickover screw as we go

but as above, double check all your vac pipes/ plugs and have a quick squint at the coils/ht leads incase something got knocked when putting it all back together Smile
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

69chris wrote:



have always done the job with the bike at its normal idle speed and adjusted tickover screw as we go

Same here.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here too, adjust the idle as I go.

Sounds like a spark plug cap has been dislodged in the process of working under the tank.

Other things to check are that all of the blanking plugs are replaced after removing the gauges, and that the gauges themselves read the same (tee them together and apply a vacuum source to them to see if they read equally).
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys.

I am using a morgan carbtune with the 4 gauges. Pete, I think you might be on the right track with dislodging a spark plug cap. I unbolted the coil packs because they were in the way of the adjustment screws.

I'm going to go out and feel all the downpipes and see if they all heat up. Will that tell me if it's dislodged or not?

Thanks for any help. Thumbs Up

I am 99 percent sure that the blocking hoses were attached properly because I was aware that this was a possibility so I made sure to do it right.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 30 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

J5 wrote:
Hi guys.

I am using a morgan carbtune. Pete, I think you might be on the right track with dislodging a spark plug cap. I unbolted the coil packs because they were in the way of the adjustment screws.



Did you remove the plug caps? Often people put the caps on wrong, assuming that the left coil feeds 1 and 2 and the right coil feeds 3 and 4. This isn't the case, one coil feeds 1 and 4, the other 2 and 3. Also, check the coils are seated well on the frame and tight.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 00:38 - 31 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your help guys.

It turns out the number 4 HT lead had come off of the plug cap during reassembly of the bike. For some reason it just pulls straight out of the plug cap. The other's don't do this. The bike is sorted now but I'd like to sort it so that it doesn't just pull out.

Do you guys know how to sort this?

Thanks again. Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 03:23 - 31 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many plug caps are screw-on. If these type don't stay fixed then either the screw is spinning in the cap or the hole in the lead is too big for the screw to grip.

Look up the hole where the HT lead goes to determine if it's a screw-on type. Stop the screw spinning with a dribble of cyno glue and let it cure well or cut 10mm off the HT lead to fix the hole.

If it's not a screw-on cap just add glue then stuff the cap on as hard as you can.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 03:49 - 31 May 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Many plug caps are screw-on. If these type don't stay fixed then either the screw is spinning in the cap or the hole in the lead is too big for the screw to grip.

Look up the hole where the HT lead goes to determine if it's a screw-on type. Stop the screw spinning with a dribble of cyno glue and let it cure well or cut 10mm off the HT lead to fix the hole.

If it's not a screw-on cap just add glue then stuff the cap on as hard as you can.


Hi Pete.

I think you might be right with the screw spinning. I looked up the hole and saw the screw, then tried screwing it on with no luck so I just gave it a big shove instead. I will see what I can do when it comes to holding the screw in place solidly.

Thanks pete. Thumbs Up
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