Will I need to remove any links, from a 15T front to a 14T

[0l0dom0l0]

Considering downgearing the Fazer with a -1 tooth sprocket on the front.

Current is 15-48, so new would be 14-48.

Will I need to remove any links from the chain? It's only done 3k miles so is near the front of the adjusters.

Reckon it's worth it?
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Probably won't need to remove a link if the chain is that new.

But you won't really gain much either (if you want more umph when cruising just cruise in 5th for the same effect).

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[0l0dom0l0]

[Kickstart]

Hi

Most of the time you can have the same effect by sitting in a lower gear. Thre will be speeds where lowered gearing will be better stock gearing, and 5mph faster might well reverse it (hence if trying for perfection on a race track you can get the gearing right for the speeds on a limited number of corners).

Around town likely just means you will be changing gear more. OK, you get more umph in 1st, but I doubt you are using all the umph you already have.

Personally I wouldn't pay the extra for a Renthal sprocket over a cheap basic JT Sprockets steel one. That said, can't tell from that listing whether it is a decent steel one or just some cheapo mild steel thing.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[0l0dom0l0]

[0l0dom0l0]

Ordered a Sun star one from Wemoto! Standard size .
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[Oldie]

It wouldn't do any harm ordering a -1 sprocket as well. Try it out and see what you think. My guess is that it will be an improvement on a 33hp bike but, considering how cheap they are, may as well give it a bash and report back.

[DrDonnyBrago]

[Oldie]

[binge]

If the chain still has a bit of adjustment in it, then it'll be fine to go -1 on the front sprocket.

I swap from a 16t front to a 15t front on a regular basis on my track bike depending where I'm racing.




Ben

[DrDonnyBrago]

[0l0dom0l0]

Cheers. Might order one as well. Bit low on cash atm though.

I'll probably end up switching them for track days.

Can you use the front sprocket nut more than once?
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[Oldie]

The nut will last a long long time, but the locking washer might fail after a "few" changes, but don't worry about that just now. You'll be my age before that happens

Quick tip - get hold of an impact wrench (or pop into your local garage for one) to loosen the nut. Some of them can be tight, and I mean TIGHT...

(DB - )

[0l0dom0l0]

[Oldie]

Just as an aside, you shouldn't really use a torque wrench to loosen stuff (or so I'm told) as it knackers the calibration or something.

Never stopped me though

Edit. Did you have a locking washer? If not, get one. If in doubt, do a search on a bike specific forum to see what folks recommend.

[0l0dom0l0]

[Oldie]

Just tighten up the nut with your foot on the back break. Remember to flatten the washer against one face of the nut (to "lock" it) and check it again after a couple of hundred miles, just to be safe.

[binge]

[DrDonnyBrago]

[0l0dom0l0]

Gotta love Wemoto! Sprocket arrived today.

I had a quick look and got everything on, tightened up the nut. 2 things:

A: The nut doesn't feel very tight at all compared to how hard it was to loosen it, is this right?

B. I can't get the pre bend tabs on the lock washer to align with the edges of the nut. Do I just bend them over anyway? Or is there an easier way?

Thanks for all your help people!
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[0l0dom0l0]

Right, finished it off today. All gone well I think.

Is this rivet link battered enough on the top?

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/img00071-20110619-1514.jpg

Finished article:

https://cdn.bikechatforums.com/files/img00066-20110619-1512.jpg
____________________
CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[Oldie]

Wow! Clean bike

Impossible to say about the rivet from a pic, but try prising it off and see if there's any play in it. Keep an eye on it anyway. Better safe than sorry.

[0l0dom0l0]