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Winter storage query?

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Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 11:46 - 27 Aug 2004    Post subject: Winter storage query? Reply with quote

A bit early I know but thought I'd ask while I remember Rolling Eyes
I'm confused on the draining of fuel. There is a recommendation to drain the carbs (see here for example).
However, other advice I've been told is that an empty carb can result in cracked/holed diaphragms.
So which is it?

For myself I was thinking go with fuel stabiliser and run the engine every 3-4 weeks. I think Yamaha used to do a bottle of stabiliser, have to get down to the dealer and see if they still do Smile
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:36 - 27 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you are able to run it over the winter you dont need to do anything else. Make sure you run it long enough to get the engine and exhaust hot enough to boil off all the condensed water (probably 20 minutes or so at idle) and you will have no probs.
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Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 27 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Pete wrote:
if you are able to run it over the winter you dont need to do anything else...

Agree, but what about if you can't do that? I know one guy who when he puts the bike in the garage for winter the only place for it means he just can't get to it again until it comes to move it out permanently for summer Rolling Eyes
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Big Pete
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 27 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

in that case, fill the tank and drain the carbs. next spring drain the tank into a can, refill the tank with fresh juice start her up. mix the juice fom the can with new petrol 1/2 a gallon or so at a time to use it up.
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Rory
Traffic Copper



Joined: 14 May 2004
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 27 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once you've prepped and stored the bike, don't start it up unless you're going to go for a ride, and thrash it if you do that. As Pete says, you need to make sure and boil off any water vapour.
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Mr Calendar



Joined: 14 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: 01:39 - 28 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Pete wrote:
...fill the tank and drain the carbs. ...

So I take it draining the carbs doesn't result in cracked/holed diaphragms? Sorry if being dense but I've had two contradictory pieces of advice (see 1st post) and just want to make sure.

Thanks Smile
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Guest
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 22 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 08:21 - 28 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rory wrote:
Once you've prepped and stored the bike, don't start it up unless you're going to go for a ride, and thrash it if you do that. As Pete says, you need to make sure and boil off any water vapour.


My thoughts too. I'd change the oil first on a four stroke as well as used oil has acids in it from combustion blow-by - you don't want that sitting on your bearings for months.

Switch the petrol off and run the engine till it stops, then fill the tank to the top - no air means no rust.

Block it up so the wheels are just off the ground

Stick an Optimate or similar on the battery

New coolant if it's over two years old
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 28 Aug 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

They sell a fuel stabilizer called Sta-Bil (oddly enough..) Ya just mix in the required amount when ya tank is full, ride around the block a couple of times to get the stuff into the carb & then park it up.
Saves throwing away an entire tank full of gas at $7/gallon...
Ya should be able to get it where they sell lawn mowers or jet ski's etc... & no need to drain the carb...

...change the oil.. & try to park it with the tires off the ground so no flat spots from sitting for months

If ya want to prevent rust on it get a can of BoeSheild T9 & spray it on EVERYTHING except the brake rotors, seat & tyres. It comes off with HOT soapy water. Smile
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