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Mountain bike slipping out of gears

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apple tango
Crazy Courier



Joined: 03 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Mountain bike slipping out of gears Reply with quote

Bought a mountain bike off gumtree today for £70. Its a bit of a shit heap.

When it's in some of the middle gears on the rear sprocket it seems to slip out of gear from time to time.

What's the cause of this and how can i fix it? The fella i bought it from reckons the chain might be slightly too long or something. He said he's taken a link out of it but it still happens.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skip out in what way? Skip to another gear? Skip to a position between gears? Or the chain just skipping over the sprocket?
Chain length and therefore tension can have something to do with things.

https://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRkJf_rOJmFvDVOlD62UXFFgfRlohOYZWYRgvhU558zKW1-KxGq6Q

The position of that will show if the chain is too long.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and maybe worn sprockets.
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apple tango
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 14:00 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah it skips to another gear.

https://img856.imageshack.us/img856/5648/14082011127.jpg

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Irezumi aka Reuben
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go on to the shimano website and download the PDF they do for derraileur(gear) adjustment.

Or take it to your local bike shop.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it's just the adjustment. It might also be a cable catching on something when you turn.
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RPM
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Joined: 16 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there

On the main part of the derailleur you should find two screws beside each other Thumbs Up

If the gears slip/shift down a gear (towards the wheel) adjust the screw to align the derailleur slightly outwards from the bike.

If it slips/shifts up a gear then adjust the other screw carefully to move it slightly inwards. Be careful not to over adjust, this can cause the chain to be thrown over the top of the largest rear cog (ouch!!)

The screws should be marked with arrows or similar.

If you do this and there is no difference then check the overall chain length. If you remove any more links just make sure that the chain is long enough to fit onto the largest front and rear cogs (sprockets). Yes.... I have previously made this mistake Rolling Eyes

All the best
Mike
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apple tango
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice Mike.

On two occasions the chain was thrown over the top of the largest cog, so i'll have a fiddle around with these screws.
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Irezumi aka Reuben wrote:
Go on to the shimano website and download the PDF they do for derraileur(gear) adjustment.
Or take it to your local bike shop.

+1 Thumbs Up
Assuming it's not down to worn sprocket(s) or damaged cables, it'll probably be down to the indexing of the derraileur. (There's usually a small adjustment screw on the derraileur that fine-tunes the horizontal position of the chain in line with the sprockets).
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RPM
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 14 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there

@ apple tango

I was also wondering whether the lower part of the derailleur was bent (bike dropped/crashed on the right hand side) if this is the case then you could try to realign it by hand.

Otherwise any adjustment you make to the alignment will have to compensate for this.

All the best
Mike
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

ITT, a fair bit of inaccuracy and half truths.

There are two screws underneath the derralieur. They are simple stops for top and bottom.

Set the indexing first by putting it on the middle ring on the front and one of the middle rings at the back. Set the position of the indexing using the large adjuster arrowed on Frosts diagram. The jockey wheel on the deralieur should be lined up exactly with the sprocket you're on so twiddle it until it is. When it's set right, turning the wheel using the pedal should have nearly no chain noise.

Once the indexing is set, use the other two screws (which are simply an upper and lower limit screw) to stop it shifting off the top or bottom of the casette while in the relevant gear.

All of that said, it all looks suspiciously clean and shiny. TOO shiny. I'd be very tempted to whip the chain off and check how loose it is. If you can hold it horizontally at waist height and the other end touches the floor, it's fucked. Or simply check how much sideways play there is (should be minimal).

Sprockets take a LOT of wearng out and it would usually be the smallest that goes first. 11 tooth sprockets are notorious for skipping but you don't have one.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
ITT, a fair bit of inaccuracy and half truths.

Completely agree.

OP - follow this poster's advice, all others(*) will mean you'll end up with a crisp shaped rear wheel with loads of spokes missing, along with lots of skin off your palms and kneecaps.



(*)maybe apart from this post too.
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apple tango
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 17:37 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Stinkwheel.
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colin1
Captain Safety



Joined: 17 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adjusting the barrel adjuster which is marked with an arrow, will stop it slipping from one gear to the next and back again or being as if its trying to be between two gears.
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JonB
Afraid of Mileage



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PostPosted: 22:15 - 15 Aug 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree with stinky. The screws are just stop limits. My first adjustment would be a turn or 2 of the barrel adjuster.
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