|
Author |
Message |
tixylix |
This post is not being displayed .
|
tixylix Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Feb 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 22:26 - 15 Feb 2012 Post subject: Best way to remove rusted nuts? |
|
|
I bought a cheap GPZ500S for £600 cause I needed something for the winter but I crashed it and the silencers ripped off. The current pipes on it from the exhaust are so mangled that I need to get them off and put new ones on. The problem I have is the four nuts holding them on are so badly rusted that when I tried to use a socket on them they rounded as all the rust fell off.
They look like this (random google pic)
https://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt267/semtex0/LTH%20Install/P1010368.jpg
The problem is that sloping bit on the back of the nut stops me from getting a nut splitter from cracking them off. I've tried heating them with a blow torch and that did nothing, I've obviously tried a nut splitter but all it did was remove half the nut so I cannot get anything on it.
Dunno what to do because I've got two badly rusted but I haven't touched them, one rounded and one in a mangled mess lol.
Anyone have any tips? I've been thinking about just getting an angle grinder, chopping them all off and welding on to the bolt. Not sure if that will work though.....
Also do the bolts on the engine unscrew anticlockwise?
Thanx. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
MarkJ |
This post is not being displayed .
|
MarkJ World Chat Champion
Joined: 11 Apr 2006 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
alun111 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
alun111 World Chat Champion
Joined: 31 May 2007 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Rogerborg |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Rogerborg nimbA
Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
dungbug |
This post is not being displayed .
|
dungbug Could Be A Chat Bot
Joined: 05 Feb 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 00:29 - 16 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
Plenty of WD40 & a descent pair of mole grips might do it, I've shifted rusty/knackered bolts before using the above. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
haroman666 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
haroman666 World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Sep 2008 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Suntan Sid |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Suntan Sid World Chat Champion
Joined: 07 May 2009 Karma :
|
Posted: 08:33 - 16 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
Before you try anything clean the end of the studs with a wire brush attachment on an electric drill to remove as much crud as you can.
Apply penetrating oil over a period of days, don't use WD40, (it's a water dispersant, not penetrating oil), do the job over a weekend and apply more oil every hour, starting on Friday night, start the removal process on Sunday afternoon.
If the nuts are already mangled beyond using a socket or spanner, (and have been thoroughly doused in penetrating oil), try a set of "Mole Grips", if you've applied enough penetrating oil they might move.
If that fails use a "Dremmel" and carefully grind away as much of the nut as you can. Don't bother grinding off the big lip on the nut, just grind a flat away on one side. The heat generated will probably be enough to get them moving with the "moley's". You can achieve the same effect with a hand file it just takes longer and is awkward. Once you've ground down to the threads on the stud the nut will move, guaranteed.
If it's possible to do this with a hand file rather than the "Dremmel", then use the hand file, it's more controllable.
Another method you could try, (although as your dealing with the cylinder head it's a bit dodgy), is after drowning the studs in penetrating oil, try to get the nut moving by knocking it round with a nail punch. A nail punch is much better than a chisel, IMO. Don't hit the punch too hard and try and go at it from two different points on the nut.
Try tightening the nut first, all you need to achieve is a tiny movement to crack the corrosion that's holding the nut in place. Continual tapping rather than whacking will get the nut moving.
I've used the Dremmel/File method to remove mangled nuts from exhaust studs successfully, in the past.
WD40 is not what you need for this job penetrating oil is your friend! ____________________ "Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!" |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Taught2BCauti... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Taught2BCauti... World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
neil. |
This post is not being displayed .
|
neil. World Chat Champion
Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Karma :
|
Posted: 16:22 - 16 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
tixylix |
This post is not being displayed .
|
tixylix Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Feb 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 17:55 - 16 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
RIDINGforKICK... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
RIDINGforKICK... Scooby Slapper
Joined: 07 Oct 2011 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Taught2BCauti... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Taught2BCauti... World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 18:11 - 16 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
Just spotted this Irwin Nut Remover Set
About £5 less than I paid for mine!
Edit: Ahh, no fancy box, that's why! |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
RIDINGforKICK... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
RIDINGforKICK... Scooby Slapper
Joined: 07 Oct 2011 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
tixylix |
This post is not being displayed .
|
tixylix Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Feb 2012 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Johnser |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Johnser Renault 5 Driver
Joined: 19 May 2011 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Alpha-9 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Alpha-9 Super Spammer
Joined: 19 Jan 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 15:40 - 17 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
Tried an expensive russian hooker? ____________________ Fzr-600 1999 |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Pete. |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Pete. Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :
|
Posted: 16:48 - 17 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
They probably look a lot worse than they are. If they truly are rusted solid and the pipes are trashed I would start by removing the rad to make some room and cutting the pipes off at the flange, then the flanges in half to take the load off the nuts. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
tixylix |
This post is not being displayed .
|
tixylix Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Feb 2012 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
tixylix |
This post is not being displayed .
|
tixylix Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Feb 2012 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Pete. |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Pete. Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :
|
Posted: 19:52 - 19 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
If you have 2cm of bolt protruding put a nut on it, weld it on then turn it out with a spanner. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Nick 50 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Nick 50 World Chat Champion
Joined: 24 Jul 2011 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
tixylix |
This post is not being displayed .
|
tixylix Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Feb 2012 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Pete. |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Pete. Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :
|
Posted: 20:29 - 19 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
Good idea, then when the long thing you weld to it has turned round and hit something on the frame or engine you can cut it off and weld it on again.
Weld a nut to it and use a 6-sided socket and long bar for leverage. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Rogerborg |
This post is not being displayed .
|
Rogerborg nimbA
Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
tixylix |
This post is not being displayed .
|
tixylix Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Feb 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 10:44 - 20 Feb 2012 Post subject: |
|
|
https://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z189/slannmage/20120220_093612.jpg
Took me ages to get to this point lol. Kept trying everything but just kept losing more length on the bolt. So I cut it off again to flatten it So I could drill through it but it's costing too much money in tools to try.
Went to a garage a few villages away from me and they said £18 per bolt which I didn't think was too bad considering I've spent more in tools. My Mechanic mate came round this morning to give me advice and said to to go there because they're so stuck in that I'll never get them out. So they're just going to drill them out and rethread it. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 98 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
|
|
|