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| MTX_Josh |
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 MTX_Josh L Plate Warrior
Joined: 24 Feb 2012 Karma :   
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| lukamon |
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 lukamon World Chat Champion

Joined: 18 May 2007 Karma :   
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| lukamon |
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 lukamon World Chat Champion

Joined: 18 May 2007 Karma :   
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| janner_10 |
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 janner_10 World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 Sep 2011 Karma :     
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| Taught2BCauti... |
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 Taught2BCauti... World Chat Champion

Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 08:09 - 06 Mar 2012 Post subject: |
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^This^
Many sellers offering complete stainless nut, bolt and washer sets for specific bikes - some OEM bolts are cadmium plated and will seize solid after being wire-brushed!
New stainless bolts, with a tiny smear of copper grease, is a much safer option. ____________________ Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu |
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| Suntan Sid |
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 Suntan Sid World Chat Champion

Joined: 07 May 2009 Karma :    
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 Posted: 08:41 - 06 Mar 2012 Post subject: |
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Soak the lot in paraffin or diesel for a few hours/days, get the worst of the crud of with a suede brush or tooth brush, then:-
A "Scotchbrite" kitchen scourer will get a lot of crud off, but is fiddly work if you've got loads of items to clean.
A polishing mop and cleaning paste in a, vice mounted, drill is good. ____________________ "Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!"  |
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| Robby |
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 Robby Dirty Old Man

Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :   
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 Posted: 09:31 - 06 Mar 2012 Post subject: |
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Don't get stainless. Stainless promote alluminium alloy corrosion, which is a bad thing - there is a reason that manufacturers use plated mild steel. Cheap stainless bolts are often crap as well, so they shear too easily, then are difficult to drill out.
There are a few ways to clean up bolts. Either let them soak in a solvent to loosen the crap then clean with an abrasive, run them though an electrolysis bath (my favourite, least effort) or get a zinc plating kit and do that (best finish and long lasting).
I recommend sticking with the original nuts and bolts where possible. Old Japanese metal often has a bit of a reputation for being crap, but this is more often down to it being seized in place where it hasn't been touched for 10 years. A smear of copper grease or vaseline on the threads during reassembly helps.
Yes, vaseline. People get concerned that it will melt out of the threads, but in my experience it tends to stay locked in for a long time - the thread is done up tight, so there isn't much space for melted grease to leak out. It takes long enough for penetrating oil to get in, and it is much thinner. |
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| DrDonnyBrago |
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 DrDonnyBrago World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 Jan 2010 Karma :   
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| Bezzer |
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 Bezzer World Chat Champion
Joined: 14 Apr 2005 Karma :    
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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| dansidi |
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 dansidi Nova Slayer
Joined: 24 Nov 2011 Karma :     
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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| janner_10 |
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 janner_10 World Chat Champion

Joined: 26 Sep 2011 Karma :     
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Old Thread Alert!
There is a gap of 207 days between these two posts... |
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| coltondunn |
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 coltondunn L Plate Warrior
Joined: 01 Oct 2012 Karma : 
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 Posted: 07:13 - 01 Oct 2012 Post subject: |
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I would definitely try this cleaning solution for cleaning my wheel nuts..Because these are always look with some type of rust & dust. I think after cleaning they would definitely look good...
angle iron caps | conduit end caps |
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| ruck bodgers2 |
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 ruck bodgers2 Scooby Slapper

Joined: 16 Sep 2012 Karma :     
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| Matt- |
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 Matt- World Chat Champion
Joined: 19 Jul 2012 Karma :   
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 13 years, 268 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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