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Chain adjustment advice

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biker7
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PostPosted: 09:26 - 11 Nov 2012    Post subject: Chain adjustment advice Reply with quote

I have always adjusted my chains by doing the same turn on both sides and then letting the dealer make any alignments when it goes in for its regular service. Since buying the new Gixxer 600 I have been a little more concerned to keep it good most of the time. I have seen a lot of chain adjustment videos and the methods vary. Even the Gixxer workshop manual is vague. Any experts out there? Is it best to line up the markers on each side exactly or is this only a rough guide? I understand that measurement from centre rear and front sprocket positions on each side is the only way to check correct alignment of wheel - trouble is the exhaust gets in the way on one side! Is it best to make the first adjust ment on the sprocket side and then the exhaust side or the other way round. Is there more chance that hit and miss adjustment of the chain can cause problems and it might be better to pop into the dealer to have a mechanic do it if it appears to be getting slack. I have never really worried too much about all this before but with the fast downshifting and high revs I seem to be subjecting my Gixxer to - I think the time has come to be a bit more fussy! Thanks for any input here. Any good links would also be appreciated.
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Last edited by biker7 on 10:49 - 11 Nov 2012; edited 1 time in total
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skiptalker
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 11 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

i find bike on side stand,glossy mags under back tyre,loosen back wheel nut adjust chain adjusters checking chain as moving them..i solely rely on marks on frame..tighten back nut when done and adjusters
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jeddy11
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 11 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have any concerns then use a ruler and measure the rim of the wheel to the swing arm both sides should be equal (for peace of mind).
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Islander
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 11 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

For complete accuracy, measure from the centre of the wheel spindle to the centre of the swingarm pivot. It should be exactly the same on both sides. Thumbs Up
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 11 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using the swing arm marks will be good enough....I always check for the tightest point in the chain and adjust free play at that point.
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GREENI3
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PostPosted: 01:28 - 12 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to measure the length of visible thread on each adjuster and/or count the number of threads.

Much more reliable than the swingarm markings.
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biker7
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 12 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for input - succesfully adjusted chain and aligned wheel today.
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geordiecbrblo...
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 13 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you like bling tools - get a set of these !

https://www.maxtonsuspension.co.uk/files/wheelalignment.htm

But yeah, wheel alignment would have to be way out before the average rider noticed any difference.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 07:34 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

biker7 wrote:
Thanks for input - succesfully adjusted chain and aligned wheel today.


TIP : Good clean and lubed chains do not require much adjustment. Only regular checks.

(Don't go cheap if you are that concerned. Buy Proper Chain lube. Wurth Dry lube is Wurth it's weight in gold.)
Of bite the bullet and fit a Scotoiler. Smile
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 08:08 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

geordiecbrbloke wrote:
If you like bling tools - get a set of these !

https://www.maxtonsuspension.co.uk/files/wheelalignment.htm

But yeah, wheel alignment would have to be way out before the average rider noticed any difference.


I think they are cheeky cnuts...

"The Ronometer was designed to make wheel alignment easier and more accurate. The majority of motorcycle wheels are out of line when the chain adjuster marks on the swingarm are lined up. Depending on which way the wheels are out of line, this can cause the bike to turn more quickly into a left or right hand corner. The Ronometer is two straight edges made from lightweight alloy square tube, that clamp to the rear tyre and run down to the front wheel. You can then see if the wheels are in line and adjust the chain adjuster blocks so that the gap at the front wheel is the same distance on both sides.

Majority my arse. Where do they get the stats on this from?
This is Scaremongeryisation at it's coldest.

But I agree on the Bling Factor. Smile

"
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Dazbo666
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PostPosted: 08:28 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

TWO straight edges of square tube?? Where do they come up with such innovative technology?!?! Rolling Eyes

I tend to use the swing arm markings... (and previously also double-checked the accuracy of those markings)
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the markings on my CG swingarm for a while but then realised they were not the same each side for some reason.


So as long as the bolt lengths were the same I used that as the measuring source although that could just be as out of alignment.

The best way is measuring from the swingarm bolt to the rear wheel spindle.
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biker7
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 14 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's amazing how much smoother the changes are when the chain is adjusted properly plus the torque seems better too.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

biker7 wrote:
It's amazing how much smoother the changes are when the chain is adjusted properly plus the torque seems better too.


I trust you de-greased and loobed the fecker too.
Lude it every other tank full of petrol. Should be about every 300miles or so. More miles will not kill it though


I don't think you get any diference in torque unless the chain was completely siezed and you somehow managed to free it off.
The torque will be transmitted whatever the slack.
Gear changes may seem smoother because of less 'pick-up-of-slack' when you off the power-on the power for changes.
What you will notice is smoother running as the chain won't have as much play to cause 'whip' coming off the sprocket.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

biker7 wrote:
It's amazing how much smoother the changes are when the chain is adjusted properly plus the torque seems better too.


Yeppers when mine was stretched and flappy it was horrible, not really torque but drive, there was a delay in acceleration due to it picking up the slack, I guess

Then when I crashed the chain was off the sprocket, makes you think...
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got to be careful.....stating the obvious.

I tightened my chain, to as close to 20-25mm as I could get.
The gear changes went from clunky to super smooth, the acceleration and de-celeration were much improved too.

BUT, I missed the tightest point on the chain and in on place it was nearer 10-15mm tight. Pulled the seal on the final drive. Now I have an oil leak (very minor, few drips after stopping the bike each time).

The chain has stretched over the last 6 weeks, but the oil leak remains. Sad

Tripple check the slackness is all I'm saying Smile
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a tip. You don't have to measure from the swing-arm pivot every time - just the once. Do that and get your spindle square then place a squared object of some kind against the back of your axle blocks on the gixxer and scribe a line in the well of the axle slot each side. This line is now the same distance from the swingarm pivot both sides and now all you need to do is measure from the mark to the back of the axle block.

Bear in mind that the axle is not a snug fit in the blocks so you have to make sure you take up the slack in the same direction both sides when you make your marks.
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Alpha-9
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 15 Nov 2012    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly I just put a bit of card or something as a marker and measure the amount of thread on the adjuster bolts, then check it with the notches, seems fine Thumbs Up

Long as you've got stock adjuster and bolts obviously
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