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Exorcist my bike?? Edit - Knackered.

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JiveBunny This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

Torque Wrench
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just use the 2009 R6 you claim to own Laughing .
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Torque Wrench
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

R6 OEM Clip On with Switch Gear L £50, R £50
R6 Clip On from Hong Kong (Pair) £45, Driven £70, Renthal £95
R6 OEM Rear Set L £25, R £35

Is that all the damage you have?, How did you do wreck it?
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bent both clip ons?

R6 doesn't have bars Laughing

But, valve clearances is what I would check.
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Torque Wrench
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tell you what Jive Bunny, you prove you own a 2009 R6 and post some pics of the damage you describe.
I will put Renthal Clip-Ons on my 2010 R6 and give you the OEM ones for free.
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

JiveBunny wrote:
Valve clearances after 15K miles?
How much is that likely to cost?


Well, should have probably been checked long before now...

Probably about 8k. So yes.

About £200-£300. You can DIY though.
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c_dug
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Joined: 04 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque Wrench wrote:
I tell you what Jive Bunny, you prove you own a 2009 R6 and post some pics of the damage you describe.
I will put Renthal Clip-Ons on my 2010 R6 and give you the OEM ones for free.


Custard test to prove it Thumbs Up

I say custard sitting on the brake reservoir.
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Copycat73
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Joined: 11 Jan 2013
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque Wrench wrote:
I tell you what Jive Bunny, you prove you own a 2009 R6 and post some pics of the damage you describe.
I will put Renthal Clip-Ons on my 2010 R6 and give you the OEM ones for free.


now there is a Gauntlet dropped.... Clapping

JiveBunny wrote:


I am not paying 200 - 300 pounds is it likely to cause further problems if I just forget it and get on with life?


You really don`t understand the importance of regular scheduled maintenance do you.
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Torque Wrench
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

@Jive Bunny

I will up the stakes.

You can also have the OEM Levers, and I will pay the postage.
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smegballs
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Joined: 28 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know the bike but as it's a 125 I would imagine it just has a simple 2-valve top end with rockers and tappets.

In that case adjustment should easily be doable at home with a socket set and feeler gauges. If a 17 year old me, can do it step-by-step reading haynes manual on a SR125 then it's no great task.

Fuck paying 200 quid for someone to fiddle my tappets! I guess if you have money to burn... As a kid I had very little cash and that was definitely the driving force for me learning mechanics.

EDIT:

https://www.daelim.fi/roadwin_tiedostot/owner_roadwin.pdf

Just looked thru the owners manual, it is a 4valve sohc engine, so should be easily able to adjust valves yourself. According to the manual, the valves want doing every 4000km.

https://i.imgur.com/IgatOI3.png
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 25 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
Torque Wrench wrote:
I tell you what Jive Bunny, you prove you own a 2009 R6 and post some pics of the damage you describe.
I will put Renthal Clip-Ons on my 2010 R6 and give you the OEM ones for free.


Custard test to prove it Thumbs Up

I say custard sitting on the brake reservoir.


It's not that. Rolling Eyes
It sounds like the room-stat is fucked.
So the radiator is not coming on.
That is why it's cold!!!
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DMCpro
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Joined: 16 Jul 2012
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 26 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't own an r6 untill you post pics with your BCF name on a price of paper taped on the seat
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 00:16 - 26 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pay me £20 and I'll tell you how to fix it.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 01:02 - 26 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

JiveBunny wrote:
Marki wrote:
Pay me £20 and I'll tell you how to fix it.


There is no fixing required other than hard starting it runs perfectly.

I will give you £20 and a packet of jaffa cakes which is all I can afford at the moment if you come to my house to adjust them.


No problem.

Dear BCF please take a look at this problem that my imbecilic friend is having. If he doesn't fix it then he loses his job. I tried to help but can only fix 10% of it. Please help them because they deserve it and I absolutely do not get anything in return, not even £20 and jaffa cakes.

Oh yeah, I forgot, if you do help me then you are a gay noob lol. If You don't help me then you is just a gay noob. Go figure.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 26 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a serious note, if it starts fine unless it is cold and runs fine once warmed up then perhaps it is the choke?

Unsure if it will have an auto choke or manual but either way it should be easy enough to check. A very crude way of seeing if it is the issue is to slightly cover the intake to the airbox to restrict the airflow and richen the mixture going into the engine, effectively mimicking what a choke does.

I suppose the other thing to ask, and don't take this the wrong way, is are you even aware of a choke and what it does and how it works? I only ask as everybody has to learn sometime and you claim to be a n00b.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 01:17 - 26 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many chokes are visible if you remove the airbox anyway so it will be easy to see whether or not it works, this is the best bet and is not more than an hours work for even the n00biest of n00bs.
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andyscooter
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Joined: 30 May 2009
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PostPosted: 08:34 - 26 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

hard starting it most certanly will be valve clearances

they can go wrong after a few hundred miles

and i think they are a korean company but the bike division is based in china

thay are one of the better ones though

look at this site for guides

www.chinesescooterclub.co.uk

prepares to be flamed for knowing about this site Embarassed Laughing
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Copycat73
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Joined: 11 Jan 2013
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 26 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

JiveBunny wrote:


TLDR; My life is shit so I apologise for my self.


thats the nicest & most truthfull thing i`ve seen you post..

see how long it lasts....

now if you ask nicley someone might come round & help...

particularly if they can photograph an alleged R6 ....

but this "idiot" is too busy puttin the camshafts in his R1 back....

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab232/copycat73/24k%20Service%2014th%20jan%202013/Photo0988_zps44f95630.jpg
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 26 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

smegballs wrote:
I don't know the bike but as it's a 125 I would imagine it just has a simple 2-valve top end with rockers and tappets.

In that case adjustment should easily be doable at home with a socket set and feeler gauges. If a 17 year old me, can do it step-by-step reading haynes manual on a SR125 then it's no great task.

Fuck paying 200 quid for someone to fiddle my tappets! I guess if you have money to burn... As a kid I had very little cash and that was definitely the driving force for me learning mechanics.

EDIT:

https://www.daelim.fi/roadwin_tiedostot/owner_roadwin.pdf

Just looked thru the owners manual, it is a 4valve sohc engine, so should be easily able to adjust valves yourself. According to the manual, the valves want doing every 4000km.

https://i.imgur.com/IgatOI3.png


Well Said !!! ... Clapping
you would not believe how difficult it is to convince peeps of this... :
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Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
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