Shortening Renthal bars . .

[Banger]

I'm wanting to put some Renthals on the Fazer. I'm sort of settled on the medium superbike ones - https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/handlebars/renthal-superbike-medium-bars

My worry is that at as they are approx 7cm wider than stock bars my filtering ability will suffer.

So, question is - anyone know roughly how much I could lop off the end of the bars before I start running out of room for the switch gear and grips due to the curve on the bar ?
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You only get one lap of lifes track . . . . so make it a fast one !
Yamaha . . Keyboards to biking nirvana.

[_Iain_]

On renthals website, they have a spec list including control length.

You could then measure your current control length on the bars and trim to suit
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Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[stinkwheel]

Fit them, attach the bits and the answer to your question will become immediately obvious.

When I've cut-down bars before today, I've done it using a hacksaw with them on the bike anyway. Just because I'm a lazy sod.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Rogerborg]

It's a fair amount to drop on bars if you're planning to hack them up anyway.

This question is relevant to my interests, I'm looking for shorter bars for Ze Beemer. It's rather frustrating that the plethora of eBay sellers don't seem minded to give all the measurements.

If you do find a good solution could you please let us know.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[dodsi]

Buys new bars to make them the same as standard?!?

Sorry, don't get it.

[Banger]

[Pete.]

[Banger]

[anthony_r6]

You're supposed to put holes in them, they're not going to weaken the bars too much. Having nothing to secure your housing /throttle to the bars (except tape, which I imagine is what you'd go for) is a bad idea when one day it decides to slip.
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Ted : "Maybe he's agoraphobic."
Dougal : "Jack scared of fighting? I don't think so, Ted."

[stinkwheel]

Something I made an executive decision about a few years back was that if I was unhappy about the shape and positioning of the handlebars and controls on any of my bikes, I would move them to suit me.

I have in the past pissed around for ages with a bike that was causing me discomfort to use/ride.

The fact is, handlebars are not all that expensive and you can always put the originals back on to sell the bike if you want to.

Only thing that sometimes causes an issue is if the new bar or lever position fouls the fairing or means cables don't reach.

For what it's worth. I'd try leaving them long first if your cables reach, you might find you like it. Short, pulled back bars are good for aerodynamics, wide, straighter ones are better for comfort and leverage.

I filed locating tabs off the clamp casting on my latest VFR so I could rotate the bars out further.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Pete.]

Don't file those pegs off, the bloody housing will rotate on the bar. Weakening the bar isn't an issue, there's no load on it.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Fladdem]

I have a set of renthals on my TTR, I like them nice and wide, except when the trees are really tight.

My switch-gear doesn't slip, no tape holding it in place and no drilled holes. It's just tightened down with screws on the brackets. I think riding through mud, water, crashing, picking it up, crashing, picking it up, bouncing over stuff and then hooning around on the road, may well result in more abuse than a fazer going through traffic, correct me if I'm wrong. I wouldn't worry at all about switch gear slipping.
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Current:1991 Honda MT50 (Soon to be a H100/MTX/MT5 hybrid), 1976 Honda Cub C70, 2005 Honda Varadero 125, 1993 Yamaha TTR250 Open Enduro , 2010 Road Legal Stomp YX140, 1994 Honda CRM 250 MK III, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 1992 Honda CB400 Super Four, Stomp T4 230, 1984 Honda H100s, 2009 Sym XS125K
Past:2003 Aprilia RS125, 1982 Kawasaki GPZ550(FREE BIKE!)
I'm having more fun than a well-oiled midget.

[Banger]

[STONEY!]

9/10 times you will get away with it. Obviously you really shouldn't do it on the throttle side.

Also some Switchgear's are designed without pegs so they are fine.

The problem arises when you find it slips and decide to bodge it with tape or glue etc which usually results in a piss poor fitting switchgear that has gaps round it letting in grot and water eventually fucking up the switchgear.

Basically there is no reason not to drill the bars, it takes seconds and you'd have to be a lazy bodging twunt not to bother.

[STONEY!]

Ps...I am talking from experience as a lazy bodging twunt, and in reality its just gonna make more work in the long run if you bodge it.

[iooi]

I don't think 1 1/2" on each side is going to make any difference to your filtering abilities.
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Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am......

[Pete.]

[dave666]

I bought cheap second renthals on ebay, measured them against the stock bars and just hacksawed them. drilled a hole for the switch.

easy as that. makes a massive difference to filtering. even an inch either side can make a difference

[Rogerborg]