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What's more important - age or mileage?

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busbar
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 11 Apr 2014
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 28 Apr 2014    Post subject: What's more important - age or mileage? Reply with quote

With a CBT booked and my interest growing I have now started looking around online at what motorcyles are available and at what cost. The intention is to get a 125 for a little pootle/practise for a few weeks so I can (hopefully) get a little more confident and be satisfied that biking is indeed something I'm cut out for before I take it further.

Although I've not decided on one particular bike yet, it is the YBR that I am concentrating my search on at present and I've realised that prices vary enormously. As a newbie I know very little about bikes, but I have bought a few used cars over the years and, whilst always taking condition into account, I've tended to take notice of mileage, service history and age in that order of importance.

Is it the same with bikes and is there any particularly important thing to look out for?
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 28 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spot on it is the same with bikes, and just apply the same method, as you've done with cars to get your money's worth out of it!

A GENUINE history on the bike's regular maintenance is good because it shows it's been looked after over the years by it's previous owner(s), and internal parts have been serviced/replaced as necessary?

More so look for tell tale signs like scrapes/dinks which will be a sign it's been either been dropped at stand still (which can happen easily enough) which is not to worrying or it was crashed while in motion due to a rear wheel lock, etc, in the past meaning there could have been more damage done to it than can be easily notice i.e. bent handlebars, forks and/or the bike's frame.

wipe clean the shiny part of the forks to remove any residue, push hard down on the forks while holding the front brake, and re-inspect the forks again and if you find once again residue of fluid then you're looking at new fork oil seals, as those ones need replacing which will cost you money !!!


Last edited by Scotsman37 on 12:08 - 28 Apr 2014; edited 2 times in total
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 28 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neither, CONDITION - CONDITION - CONDITION
In that order.
Bikes aren't cars.
They have a little in common with them, in so much as they have wheels, and an engine, and they can take you places, but cars, these days are domestic appliences; every-one has one; they get pretty much the same sort of use; and they wear out pretty predictably and reasonably proportionally to that use, which is proportional to age, and mileage.
Bikes are far more like bits of leisure equipment; think multi-gym or gold clubs. Not every-one has them; and the use they get can vary hugely. To one person, its a new hobby, gets used regularly for a few months, then as enthusiase wains, never again. OR as enthusiasm grows, gets used excessively. Wear and tear then is almost independent of age. You might expect it to be more proportional to miles then; but again; one bike might get ragged the shit out of over very few miles by over enthusiastic newby; another might get treated very gently by experienced commuter, cranking up high miles to and from work every day.
CONDITION IS ALL.
As for service history? Well, bikes, as cheap transport and or bits of sporting goods.. franchise dealers dont get a huge amount of repeat business after the warranty has run out... certainly not on little bikes; folk DIY, either to save money, or because its part of the fun of thier hobby.
And again, some do it well, and conscientiously, others dont.
CONDITION IS ALL
Learner bikes, live hard lives; they are built down to a price, as people expect price to be proprtional to performance, and they dont have much... so they aren't necesserily the most robust bikes on the market to start with; they then get bought by Learners, who by definition probably dont know much about either riding or looking after bikes; so they get ragged, because they don't have much performance, so most will try using all they can, and they probably aren't the most mechanically sympathetic to begin with; so clutches cet tortured, gears get crunched, brakes slammed on, etc, putting strain on the bike, wearing it out; then if they do any maintenence, like as not it will be left until it cant be avoid it, as they dont want to spend money on it; and when theyt do do it; thier mechanics skills are likely to be as un-developed as thier riding, and they can do as much harm as good with the spanners!
CONDITION IS ALL
You have to look at the bikes in the metal. Not go by how much is shiney and polished, but look for how many bolt or screw heads have been chewed; oil where it should be, not where it shouldn't; bits that are bent, bodged or missing, that sort of stuff.
CONDITION - CONDITION - CONDITION
Then hope for the best!
Second hand bike? ALWAYS factor in some lea-way for fixing and fettling stuff you just wont find on inspection or short test ride; but will become apparent as you start to put the bike to use.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 28 Apr 2014    Post subject: Re: What's more important - age or mileage? Reply with quote

busbar wrote:
whilst always taking condition into account, I've tended to take notice of mileage, service history and age in that order of importance.

Is it the same with bikes and is there any particularly important thing to look out for?


Is a low mileage old bike better than a high mileage new bike? Perhaps - if the former has been run regularly and well-looked after (dry miles, short oil change intervals, ridden with a measure of mechanical sympathy), and the latter has been spotty-youthed to hell and back. But a low mileage old bike will have stood at some point, or perhaps had its clocks sabotaged (not even MOT are ultimate proof of mileage, of course). And as you probably know, they don't like standing - especially carbs and brakes. Here, a new high mileage bike might be the better option (if the # of owners is low, and they've been kind to the bike and not let it see much winter commuting). But there are loads of variables, many of which remain hidden from view. Which is Zyklon Tef's point. Be prepared to spend a little on any 125 - and perhaps a lot if you're unlucky.
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busbar
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 29 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, that's given me something to chew over anyway.

I have noticed that a few bikes are sold with a sneaky 'cat c' or 'cat d' stuck on the end of the description. Now, in car terms, this can be serious and can make insuring the car difficult and expensive - does it have the same effect on bikes?
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 29 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

busbar wrote:
Thanks guys, that's given me something to chew over anyway.

I have noticed that a few bikes are sold with a sneaky 'cat c' or 'cat d' stuck on the end of the description. Now, in car terms, this can be serious and can make insuring the car difficult and expensive - does it have the same effect on bikes?


an 'official' Cat c or D is merely a report to DVLA by an insurer to notify them that the vehicle was damaged and that they deemed it beyond ecconomical repair; though not structurally impaired.

If you buy such a bike, it shouldn't have a V5 log book... that ought to have been surrendered to the insurance company... who then return to DVLA as part of the 'official' Cat reporting process.

Bikes 'registration' is suspended, as long as Cat flag set, and only cleared once the vehicle has been 'inspected' to assure its road-worthyness. For a motorcycle, on Cat c or D that is merely passing an MOT; for a car it may be a VOSA inspection.

Once MOT is passed... you may THEN apply for the registration to be re-issued and get a new V5.

You may have to declare that a bike 'historically' was declared a Cat write off to any insurer you want to cover the bike; but frankly, they ought to bludy know better than YOU if it was ever officially catted. Shoudln't make it hard to insure or necesserily put premiums up; damage has been fixed and flag cleared, veheicle deemed road-worthy again by MOT.

Often stuck into adds, ad its a bit of 'jargon'... and a lot of people dont REALLY know what it means, and think its short hand for 'fell off its side stand; expect it to be a bit scuffed, but rideable' or "I stuffed it through a hedge but fixed it without telling ins-co"

Thing you DO need to be wary of, is that it is a VERY good excuse for having a slightly damaged bike; probably with locks chiselled out, and no registration document... "Stolen Recovered Cat D Write Off" could be quite legitimate... and very likely 'stolen'... but recovered by who? Not necessarily the legal owner!
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 29 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was gonna say age and mileage are irrelevant and it's all about the condition of the bike.

But Tef beat me to it, and in much more detail than I was gonna offer.
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clancy
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PostPosted: 07:45 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

busbar wrote:
Thanks guys, that's given me something to chew over anyway.

I have noticed that a few bikes are sold with a sneaky 'cat c' or 'cat d' stuck on the end of the description. Now, in car terms, this can be serious and can make insuring the car difficult and expensive - does it have the same effect on bikes?


As far as insurance goes cat c and cat d do not affect your insurance premium or ability to insure it. You merely have to state it and then they simply reduce your payout should you bin it a second time. Same goes for cars.

Although I would have no problem buying a written off car if I could see proof of damage and repairs etc (some cars get written off for nothing ). I would probably avoid a written off bike unless there was extensive proof of what happened and repairs etc. Bikes are too easy to bodge and probably more piece of mind I just wouldn't feel comfortable
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Boris the spider
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PostPosted: 08:07 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought this was a question for the Plenty of Fish thread...
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmph. I thought it was for angry muck spreaders - until I realised I'd misread it as rage or silage.




*doesn't so much get coat as commandeer entire BCF cloakroom facilities*
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

clancy wrote:
I would probably avoid a written off bike unless there was extensive proof of what happened and repairs etc. Bikes are too easy to bodge and probably more piece of mind I just wouldn't feel comfortable

I'd actually be more comfy or at least less uncomfy, buying a written off bike, than a written off car. And it is the mockery of the Cat system.
Thing with bikes is that they are far more likely to get crashed than a car.. And they only get 'Written off' if the owner claims for damage against an insurance policy, AND accepts a settlement in which its deemed a 'total loss'.

This is very likely if the bike's stolen and recovered. Damage can be quite minimal; thieves chiselling out the ignition and seat locks, and smashing the lock stops to break the steering lock; maybe breaking a couple of panels; nothing 'structural'... but chopping the connector block off the end of the main wiring harness to try 'hot-wiring' the thing... a franchise dealer would quote full list price for a complete new loom, because that's the 'damaged part', and labour to strip the bike down almost to the frame to fit new one, not to just solder a new connector block on the ends of bared wires.... and that is likely to result in repair quote exceeding pre-theft market value of bike... hence 'total-loss' settlement offer. Cheaper to replace than get repaired.

Even if the bike was crashed, not stolen; again, very easy for a dealers to deem a bike Beyond Economical Repair for very little essentially 'cosmetic' damage.

And on a bike, it IS likely to be purely 'cosmetic'. Cars have a 'unitary construction' body shell. The 'chassis' is the main body panels. Dent one... main structural member is bent! Bikes, main structural member is generally a frame, usually hidden under a lot of conveniently impact absorbing, non load bearing plastic.

And again, very easy for repair quotes for relatively minor damage to exceed market value, very quickly; Plastic body-panels can be plastic welded if cracked; but dealer wouldn't do that, as he would be charged for making repair to 'pre accident' condition; and welding up and painting up a bit of bodywork, to 'original' standard would take more labour than buying a new part; so he'd bill on OEM part prices, that would rapidly mount.

So... bikes are very EASILY 'written off' as being Beyond-Economical-Repair, in an insurance claim, for damage that COULD be put right with small loss of functional condition for far less money.

HOWEVER... like I said, that depends on a bike being written off by an insurance company, having been made subject to a claim.

Insured Third-Party-Fire & Theft; often with hefty policy excesses in relation to bike value... a LOT of bikes that get nicked or crashed DON'T get written off by an insurance company!

Rider drops it or bins it; fixing the wreckage is up to them; NOT their Ins-co.

Far more bikes out there, that have sustained heavy crash damage, and could be pretty poorly repaired, and possibly not wonderfully 'safe' that have NEVER been 'written off' but bodged back together by embarrassed and impoverished owners, than have ever been 'officially' written-off!

And this is inordinately more likely looking at light-weight 'Learner-Bikes' likely to go down when inept new riders lock up in an e-stop, or drop it practicing a U-Turn or lob it through a hedge, trying to go flat out round a corner!

CONDITION IS ALL

You look at the metal work; that will tell you far more than the paper-work ever will.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 30 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the UK, age is top of my worries. I'd be scared of being labelled a kiddie-fiddler.

Mileage is fine, as long as the consumables aren't slick. I like tread on the tyres.
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busbar
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 08 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well after scouring the net daily for the past month or so for a seemingly genuine, decently-priced YBR I am finally going to have a look at one at the weekend. I originally set a budget of around £1000 but have now decided to increase it by a couple of hundred.

The bike I'm going to see is a 2012 2-owner YBR with 6K on the clock and a full main dealer history. Having spoke to the seller at length today, both he and the bike seem very genuine and I'm optimistic enough to have hired a van in anticipation of bringing the bike back with me.

Fingers crossed.
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