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2 stroke warming up

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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: 2 stroke warming up Reply with quote

Hi. Did you know, how to know when you bike is enough warm up? Need to watch temperature sensor in speedometer, or just touch the engine Very Happy. Also, I heard that is bad for idling, it could cause chance for oil to build up on the plug and in the exhaust. What's happened when in motor? Power is slowly? Don't start engine? Possible clean all this shit? Also when you idling it could overheat the engine, but c'mon, how to warm up when the engine? It's just start and drive any seconds from starting? No idling? When I'm puting my bike from garage and locking and so one. I think bike idling for 2 or maybe 3 minutes? It's bad?
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andy_uk
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will come along, but all I normally do is start it up with choke, keep the revs below 4k for the first 5 minutes then just ride it normally.
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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

andy_uk wrote:
I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will come along, but all I normally do is start it up with choke, keep the revs below 4k for the first 5 minutes then just ride it normally.


Oh, thanks for that Smile. My bike start with choke fine (you start every time, need gas, how long did you hold choke?), but how much your bike has the revs? What bike? 2 stroke? 125?
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joshuaHolden
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't need choke to start don't use it.

When the top of the radiator or the exhaust feels warm it's usually a good indication, I tend to idle for a minute, give it a couple of revs to just below the red line wait a minute then set off making sure for the first mile or so I don't red line then I throw away the leash and thrash the crap out of it...


ps mines a HONDA NSR 125 R, idles at 1200 revs but you can adjust the carb screw to change the tickover..


not like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=zvr_Y4xSuks **comments are funny**

do it more like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCV0TD_vcJ8


Last edited by joshuaHolden on 21:28 - 18 Aug 2014; edited 1 time in total
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never fidle with the idle screw when the engine is cold. Thumbs Up
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor


Last edited by RhynoCZ on 09:25 - 19 Aug 2014; edited 1 time in total
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 18 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Start up (with the choke if necessary) and ride off pretty much immediately.

With a temp gauge, wait until it is up to temp before thrashing it (and watch out for the temp dropping when the stat first opens)

All the best

Keith
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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 09:04 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okey, so 1 minute it's normally to warmed up, but what's wrong becoming if you idling and how that affecting your engine?

Also, what is "stat first opens", I don't get that part?

Also, when you idling in cold engine it's damaging your engine or it's not accure?

And why you need to ride pritty much immediatly to drive?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do it this way: Start the engine with choke if needed, then when the engine can hold the idle, I turn the choke off and after a while when the engine responses to the throttle movement, I ride it. Still go slowly until the temp gauge doesn't reach certain level or it feels like it's ready. Then I give it hell.

This applies to every 4 stroke engine with manual choke and carbs I've ever been on. Two strokes are going to be the same.

Throttle response = when the engine of my zxr is cold and I twist the throttle it stalls, that's why I warm it up a bit. The zxr engine is tuned for high revs, so can't be ridden around the idle, especially when cold.

GPz did that too, the CB-1 was good to go from cold.

Mate's MZ150 ETZ is also good to go from cold, but it's crap till it gets a bit warm, the clutch slips, the engine has got no power and so on. Not that it's a powerful beast after it gets warm enough. Thumbs Up
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have a lot of basic questions,
I would suggest reading up a little more about engines etc Wink

Running the engine at idle from cold is just fine, the oil wont build up in the engine or the exhaust because
premix : Idle = low throttle = less fuel/oil
Oil injection : Idle = low throttle = less oil injected.
The oil pump is linked to the throttle so as throttle increases the oil does to.

The choke is used to get the bike started when its to cold to start without. If its warm there is a good chance you wont need the choke however if its cold, you should.
Many people will start the bike and ride straight away and ride Gentility because this will not cause the engine harm.
To get on a cold 2 stroke and red line it will kill the engine fast!

Just make sure you keep the rpm down, stay out of the power band (higher rev's where the power comes in) however try not to labour the engine (pull the throttle all the way back at 2,000rpm).

The 'Stat' or thermostat is just the valve on the engine cylinder jacket which lets the coolant flow from the engine to the radiator once the engine gets up to temperature. Once this opens at first, as the cold coolant from the radiator circulates through the system it can cause a temperature dip.

Personally I've never concerned myself about this but I mostly commuted out of towns when I was on a 2 stroke so not to much opportunity to thrash it whilst cold!

Any more questions? Mr. Green

-Jvr
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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I get it. It's not so bad in idling. You can drive or idle, so thanks for that. Because It's my first 2 stroke, and I won't harm the engine, but if I drive on 2rpms I think I can't drive, because it's won't be power, I think until 4 rpms, maybe 5 is good choise, because my kmx have 13, from 9 to 13 I think is red, power valve becomes from 6-7, so 4-5 is good yes?

Also, why Never fidle with the idle screw when the engine is cold?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardDriver wrote:
So I get it. It's not so bad in idling. You can drive or idle, so thanks for that. Because It's my first 2 stroke, and I won't harm the engine, but if I drive on 2rpms I think I can't drive, because it's won't be power, I think until 4 rpms, maybe 5 is good choise, because my kmx have 13, from 9 to 13 I think is red, power valve becomes from 6-7, so 4-5 is good yes?

Also, why Never fidle with the idle screw when the engine is cold?


The power valve is there so you could use the lower rev range. It's like having 2 bikes, one tuned for the low rev range and the other for the high rev range. That's what the valve does. Thumbs Up

Always set the idle when the engine is hot/warm, because, if you set it on cold engine, the moment it gets warm it'd get too high up. Most of the engines have about 400 rpms difference between cold and warm idle. So if you set it on cold engine, at around 1200 rpm, it could be around 1600 rpm when warm = unnecessary + fast/high idle ruins your 1st gear, when you shift it from Neutral.

EDIT: If you read the manual, it says there you should set the idle when the engine is warm/ at its operating temperature.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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HardDriver
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
HardDriver wrote:
So I get it. It's not so bad in idling. You can drive or idle, so thanks for that. Because It's my first 2 stroke, and I won't harm the engine, but if I drive on 2rpms I think I can't drive, because it's won't be power, I think until 4 rpms, maybe 5 is good choise, because my kmx have 13, from 9 to 13 I think is red, power valve becomes from 6-7, so 4-5 is good yes?

Also, why Never fidle with the idle screw when the engine is cold?


The power valve is there so you could use the lower rev range. It's like having 2 bikes, one tuned for the low rev range and the other for the high rev range. That's what the valve does. Thumbs Up

Always set the idle when the engine is hot/warm, because, if you set it on cold engine, the moment it gets warm it'd get too high up. Most of the engines have about 400 rpms difference between cold and warm idle. So if you set it on cold engine, at around 1200 rpm, it could be around 1600 rpm when warm = unnecessary + fast/high idle ruins your 1st gear, when you shift it from Neutral.

EDIT: If you read the manual, it says there you should set the idle when the engine is warm/ at its operating temperature.


So I need to drive for warming up not reaching power valve yes? It will be totaly save for my engine?

Yee, I idle in 1200 about, manual says 1200, so that's good rpm

Also, what's wrong if in exhaust or in engine oil is makeing? It's killing the bike or it's becoming jammed? Or it's bad for power valve?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You Sir, have got quite a lot of questions.

What do you mean with ''oil is making''? If you mean the oil stays in the engine or exhaust when the engine is off, it's alright. If you run right pre-mix or the mixer/autolube works fine and there's no faulty gasket around the gear box, the amount of oil that stays there can't harm a thing. In fact oil keeps your exhaust from rotting away.

It's not long ago when I started my mate's MZ 150 ETZ after 8 months, the most of the petrol evaporated and there was quite a lot of 2 stroke oil in there. It was very smoky, but alright. Thumbs Up
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

OP either needs to read more, or is trolling or just retarded. Nearly everything he has asked about is plain common sense.

I have my doubt's now that someone of such an apparent lack of Knowledge should be owning a 20year old 125cc 2stroke at all sorry!
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joshuaHolden
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Iain_ wrote:
stevo as b4 wrote:
OP either needs to read more, or is trolling or just retarded. Nearly everything he has asked about is plain common sense.

I have my doubt's now that someone of such an apparent lack of Knowledge should be owning a 20year old 125cc 2stroke at all sorry!


Basicly this.

OP should sell bike, buy a fuel inected four stroke commuter bike.

From memory, my YBR had three switches to operate. I'm sure he'd be able to cope with one of those.



Or he could ask questions and learn. We all start somewhere, in fact it shows at least he cares a bit that the question was even asked, especially as English is not his first language (unless it is then I take it all back!)
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardDriver wrote:
Okey, so 1 minute it's normally to warmed up, but what's wrong becoming if you idling and how that affecting your engine?


Idling warms the engine up very slow (at least one of my bikes will not reach full temp if just left iding). Also when the engine is cold and you are using the choke the mixture is richened up, which can wash the oil from the bore and increase engine wear.

Also when the engine is warming up, different parts of the engine expand at different rates. Party down to where they are in the engine and partly down to the different materials. This is a major reason why you don't want to thrash the engine when cold. Personal rule of thumb, keep the revs under half the red line. Ie, red line starts at 10000 then keep the revs below 5000 until up to temp. It is the start of the red line that is important (how far the red area goes after that is just for decoration).

With a 2 stroke the clearances are a bit more strange hence the reason to warm them up before thrashing them but at least they are not relying on a high pressure oil system to protect the bearings, etc. With a 4 stroke the engine is relying on a high pressure lubrication system, and until oil is pumped around wear is greatly increased.

HardDriver wrote:
Also, what is "stat first opens", I don't get that part?


On a liquid cooled bike the temp gauge measures the coolant temperature (not the engine temp, which can be rather different). The engine uses a pump to circulate coolant, a radiator to cool the coolant and a thermostat (ie, stat) to control the flow of coolant to the radiator to control the temperature. When the coolant first gets hot enough to open the thermostat the engine tends to get a sudden amount of cold coolant and the temp of the coolant in the engine can drop noticeably.

HardDriver wrote:
And why you need to ride pritty much immediatly to drive?


You can leave it idling but little point as long as the bike is rideable when it is cold. On a car you do have one major advantage of letting it warm up - you get the heater warm!

All the best

Keith
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:26 - 19 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

_Iain_ wrote:
We all start somewhere, but the guys asking questions that make you wonder if he should even be riding a motorcycle...


When I was selling the CB-1, the buyer asked if the oil went into the fuel tank and then when I told him, the chain looked a bit dry, lube the chain when you get home, he said alright, I've got some WD40 there.

When I saw the money, the jew inside of me told me, nah, SOLD!
I sold it for about 150 pounds more than I bought it for and I sold it with bald rear tyre and oil + filter that needed change. I wonder if the bike still runs. Thinking

So, the OP's concerns are still alright, I guess. Some people just think about stuff a bit too much, but it sure is better to be safe than sorry.
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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