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sainttm
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Joined: 31 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 18 Jan 2005    Post subject: Down shifting Reply with quote

Hi ya again,

Well I have no bike (yet) to try this out on but has/does anyone down shift the gears on there bike (by that I mean flicking the throttle as you change down).

I had never heard of this till someone told me about it when I was looking at the BMW, its meant to stop some wear on the gear box. Im not sure if its true or if its more of a thing to get noticed going through town. Does anyone know if it helps or is it a possing/showing off thing?

I was never told about it when learning...proberly not a good thing to learn for testing.

My Dad (a vectron rider) says its good to do and sounds good and recommends that when I get a bike I should do it...should I?


Last edited by sainttm on 15:30 - 18 Jan 2005; edited 1 time in total
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mchaggis
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Joined: 10 May 2004
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 18 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. Blip the throttle when you change down, and the engine speed will match the rear wheel speed more quickly in the lower gear. Less clutch wear and less stress on the gearbox. T'is a good thing. Sounds good too.

Also, if you knock down a gear and it skips more than one, if you're blipping the throttle it might save you from locking the rear.
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Craggles
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 18 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I learnt this from Day 1 (before my CBT) and it really helps.

A2 instructor told me not to do it but I couldn't get out of the habit!

Craig
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Rory
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 18 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Craggles wrote:
A2 instructor told me not to do it but I couldn't get out of the habit!

I can't think why. Smoother downshifting and less chance of locking the rear seem like very good reasons to me.
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AcIdBuRnZ
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Joined: 28 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 03:21 - 20 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get yourself a nice exhaust system.

Changing into 3rd at 30mph (slowing down) sounds sweet as fuck with my full Remus system.

Cool
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Claud 14.7 to 1
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Joined: 06 May 2004
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PostPosted: 04:39 - 20 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Craggles I suspect you instructor told you not to do it because it is difficult for a learner to pick up, and not necessary for test standard. It is probably hard for a new rider to use front brake and blip the throttle at the same time. It just adds confusion. It's really not needed.

I wouldn't recommend doing it until you have passed and have your own bike to practice on. And remember to practice with the bike going straight and level until you are confident/good enough.

It's not as if you are reving it high for the test. You keep the rpm low, so you don't really need to blip. Wheel won't lock up if you are using low rpms, just easing the clutch will be enough at low rpm.

Rory, you so need to do it on 400s eh? Keep them buzzing... Very Happy Cool
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Craggles
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PostPosted: 08:56 - 20 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was told it wasn't needed on modern bikes - by this time I'd been doing it for 6 months on my GN, so was used to doing it

Dad (who's never owned anything larger than a 550, or newer than 1982) taught me to do it in an industrial estate car park before I did CBT purely as what you have to do when you change down.

Craig
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Mantzy
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Joined: 30 May 2004
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 20 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Craggles wrote:
I was told it wasn't needed on modern bikes -


It's not needed on bikes fitted with a slipper clutch as that pulls the clutch away if the rear is starting to lock. Or so I believe.
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Claud 14.7 to 1
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PostPosted: 13:25 - 20 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMO it's only really needed if you are riding like you would on a race track - keeping the rpm higher for maximum power delivery, and then for coming down from high rpm using the emphasised engine braking higher up.

Saying that, sure you can use it when not pushing it, but there isn't as much point. Does sound good though, and smoothens things out. Thumbs Up

Hence why IMO you don't need it for test standard. Hehe Laughing

Practice it when you have passed and can really experiment with your bike and your riding. Then find out whether you will need it or use it.
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Rory
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 20 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Claud 14.7 to 1 wrote:
Rory, you so need to do it on 400s eh? Keep them buzzing... Very Happy Cool


Amen! It also helps you keep the engine at a useful rev range when cornering, so you're got enough humpty to keep the bike nice and steady while cranked over.
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.....
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Joined: 15 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 20 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mantzy wrote:
Craggles wrote:
I was told it wasn't needed on modern bikes -


It's not needed on bikes fitted with a slipper clutch as that pulls the clutch away if the rear is starting to lock. Or so I believe.


yeah it's all about matching your engine speed to your rear wheel speed. Giving that blip just before you let the clutch out minimises the difference between te two. If you're shifting down hard and your revs aren't matched then the rear wheel can lock up. Easiest way is let your brakes do the work and shift down and rely less on engine braking.
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