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Suzuki van van (RV125) gearbox?

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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 27 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

finchy95 wrote:
I'm pretty heavy footed with the gear change as I'm sure the gearbox was designed for a tractor.


I've put 10k on a carb'd '04 vanvan. Bought it with under a hundred miles on the clock. For the first 500 miles or so finding neutral was often difficult. However, from a thousand miles onwards the gearbox was unproblematic in all respects, and certainly didn't require any heavy footedness - still doesn't, in fact. I was out on it yesterday and whilst selecting gears proves less slick than on a YBR, the suzuki's gearbox is more than adequate and afaic makes for very easy riding and simple gear selection through the range.

If the bike goes into second gear and then jumps back down to neutral, or if there are any painful sounding grinding noises whilst pulling through second, etc., this doesn't augur well for the state of the gearbox.

However, it uses a very tried and tested engine that although gutless, is difficult to knacker and certainly not prone to mechanical failure if properly maintained.
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 17:40 - 27 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah the bike is bombproof without a doubt. It's just this damn gearbox -_-
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the chain flew off on the way to work this morning and has jammed up under the cover. Yaaaaaaayyyyy!!
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of condition were the chain and sprockets in? If rusty, this could well explain not only the reason for it breaking but also issues selecting gears. Got any pictures?
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Iain.
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

finchy95 wrote:
So the chain flew off on the way to work this morning and has jammed up under the cover. Yaaaaaaayyyyy!!


I'm sure I said something about chain tension being the main cause of this gear selection issue Laughing

Fingers crossed it's not put a hole in the engine casing when it went.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zB4DsHV8SAQ

You should be able to push the chain up around an inch or 25mm with nobody sat on the bike as the chain will tension when someone sits on it. If it had an inch or more of slack in it with you sat on it, then it was far far too loose.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

finchy95 wrote:
Chains nice and tight. I commute 30 miles each way to work so I habitually check it on arrival and departure to and from everywhere I go.


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finchy95
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

That moment when it's your own bike so you know what's going on...

I haven't got any pictures or owt as it was about 06:45 when this happened and it was pissing down so I was trying to find a place to hide.

The chain and sprockets are fairly old 6-8 months maybe? But they're in fairly good nick (no rust etc.) The chain had just over an inch by 5mm at most with me sat on it.

Seriously the chain was tight. I had one snap just after my CBT due to poor maintenance and it wrecked a brand new pair of kevlar jeans and I shit myself because I had no idea what the fuck had happened, so I always make a point of checking.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

finchy95 wrote:
The chain had just over an inch by 5mm at most with me sat on it.

Not trying to be funny, but what the fuck are you talking about? Just over an inch? By 5mm? So, 30mm (30.4mm for the nerds) yeah? How did you measure it if you were sat on it?
finchy95 wrote:
Seriously the chain was tight.

There's your problem princess!
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

*sigh* as I have explained multiple times now, the chain was tight, but not overly so, nor was it overly slack (contrary to your opinion) and I had a work mate of mine check the chain last night as I left work to make sure my weight wasn't making it bow badly and cause the gearbox issues I've been having.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems odd.
Just so you know, when you sit on the bike, the chain can go tighter. It can also go tighter when you go over a bump and the suspension tops out. Most bikes do this (but not all, depends on the geometry) including a Vanvan.

The ideal method for measuring chain slack is at three or more points around the chain. You do this in case a particular point has been stretched.

If your chain was too slack, you'd notice gearbox selection issues, and most likely a thump as you let the clutch out in the lower couple of gears. I don't think the Vv has a cush drive, so you'd definitely notice this.

If it was too tight, it'll have untightened itself by snapping.

Also worthy of note, the Vv has a notoriously underspecified chain. A popular mod is to swap it and the sprockets out for a heavier duty one.

Imma go ahead and recommend you get a local garage to do that for you, before deciding to change the gearbox etc.
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Iain.
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay.

You need 25mm of slack with suspension unloaded.

You had 30+mm of slack with the suspension fully loaded.

You are supposed to take this measurement when the bike has no load on the suspension as sitting on the bike tensions the chain.

With the suspension unloaded, at a guess thats going to work out at closer to double the amount of slack that is allowed as a maximum tolerance. If the sprockets are good, the chain hasn't snapped, and the chain was correctly tensioned it simply cannot come off without defying the laws of physics.

I strongly suspect you've been measuring it wrong, but by all means dissasemble the gearbox Laughing
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh definitely! I'm not able to replace the gearbox as they're pricey. So I'm going to try the oil change and clean the cover out and if that doesn't work as you've suggested I shall now try uprated sprockets, and it hasn't snapped (thank fuck) it's just slipped off the rear sprocket and possibly the front I'm not sure yet but it's definitely caught on something under the cover.
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 28 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I've just been measuring it in one place thinking that sitting on the bike would slacken the chain so apologies to everyone for my ignorance and stupidity. I'll try 25mm unladen and report back.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 29 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

finchy95 wrote:
I'll try 25mm unladen in at least three spots and report back.


Fixed that for you.
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 29 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set the chain up at 25mm UNLADEN and measured it near the front sprocket top and bottom, in the middle top and bottom and near the rear sprocket top and bottom. Then five miles up the road the chain snapped and blew about six links everywhere including into both sprockets and the left hand arm. so it's gone to a garage. Hopefully it gets sorted if not I'm buying a Honda and being done with it.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 29 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

That *is* strange. I've still got the OEM chain on mine and it's done nearly 10k. Imo, on this bike, power is so low that chain tension isn't that crucial. I mean sure, it being too tight is absolutely not a good thing, and being too slack risks it jumping off a sprocket. But as long as there's a bit of play, and providing there are no serious tight spots where links have tired, *and* if the chain is kept clean and lubricated, the bike will go about its business without any trouble.

And this is despite the fact that the OEM chain is seen as absolute rubbish by many owners (and an item that requires immediate upgrade to a heavy duty DID job - hint; with proper cleaning and lubrication it most certainly does NOT). Having said that, the OEM chain IS thin and insubstantial. Adequate is the best that can be said. Secondly, there is no cush drive either - so in theory the chain and sprockets can work against each other in a way that they might not on a bike with rubbers in the carrier.

However, and to repeat - this is a bike that makes so little power that none of these things really matter. What might prove to be dangerous oversights with more powerful engines (e.g. incorrectly tensioned chain, or overly worn / unlubricated chain etc.) will in all probability be forgiven by the small 4t 125 that powers the vanvan.

Nevertheless, IF the bike is continuously ridden harshly by an unsmooth rider, and IF the chain is very poorly maintained, and IF the chain is cheap shit, and the sprockets cheap and rusty, THEN problems may well be encountered.

But none of this seems to be the case (although chain brand remains unknown). Therefore, if adequate chain and sprocket maintenance can be assumed, perhaps the issue really does lie with the transmission. If something is badly awry in that part of the engine's guts, I suppose drive to the front sprocket could be uneven, jerky and problematic enough to stress the chain out to the point of being flipped off the sprocket.

Keep us updated.
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 29 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

To my knowledge it was all standard suzuki parts, the chain and sprockets at least. it was all clean and not rusted, the underside of the cover was actually fucking gopping with road dirt and mud and crap but the sprocket itself looked (fairly) clean. So your guess is as good as mine. I'll just wait to hear back off the garage.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 29 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

finchy95 wrote:
Set the chain up at 25mm UNLADEN and measured it near the front sprocket top and bottom, in the middle top and bottom and near the rear sprocket top and bottom.


I think I see the issue now. You don't know how to measure chain slack.

You measure it in the middle of the two sprockts, at the bottom 'run' of the chain.

Here's an example of where to check (but not specifically for the Vv, think it's 25mm, but check the manual for sure):

https://www.mts1200.info/motorcycleinfo/resources/6795/assets/images/Ducati_MTS1200/how_to_faq/chain/mts1200_chain_tension_adjustment.jpg

You do this, then roll the bike forward a bit. Then check again. Then roll forward a bit and check again.

If you have a tight spot, you adjust it so that it's as close as can be to consistent along all measurements.

If there's no way you can make it 'reasonable' (greater than say, 40mm at one spot and less than 20mm at another) then your chain is buggered and needs replacing.

Yours does anyway, so I'll say again: get a new chain and sprockets. Get them fitted and oil it regularly.
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 07:33 - 30 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apparently the chain has fucked most of the ancillary parts, the arm and covers and such on the left hand side so it's been sold and I've got a brand new CBR 125 R that I'm picking up tomorrow, thanks to everyone that posted here for all your help!
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Iain.
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PostPosted: 09:03 - 30 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

So after the chain came off and got mashed up..then you just put it back on without inspecting the damage or looking for tight links?

Perhaps it would be wise to ask a mechanic at the dealer how to adjust the chain as all of this seems to be down to poor maintinance/lack of knowledge. Thumbs Up
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 30 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The chain wasn't mashed up I checked it all the way around. Alas it matters little as I'm getting a new bike.
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Iain.
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 30 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

finchy95 wrote:
The chain wasn't mashed up I checked it all the way around.


You assured me, and others that the chain tension was fine when it was so loose that it jumped off the sprockets. Hence I'm err...shall we say a little doubtful? Laughing

finchy95 wrote:
Alas it matters little as I'm getting a new bike.


If anything, it should matter to you more. A brand new bike still requires chain adjustment every week and correnct maintiance in order to keep working and to keep your warranty going. If you don't learn from this experience you're pretty likely to have another snapped chain going through your engine casing in the near future, and the warranty won't cover it.

You can either find someone who knows what they're doing and have them teach you, or you can end up with a £3599 bike with a knackered engine. The whole...self teaching thing doesn't seem to be working for you given that once you'd been shown a video on how to tension a chain correctly you went out and snapped said chain & destroyed a motor Shocked

Just sayin' Thumbs Up
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 30 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iain. wrote:
A brand new bike still requires chain adjustment every week

Checking, not necessarily adjustment. Mine all tend to need a fiddle every 3-4 months.
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Iain.
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 30 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

UnknownStuntman wrote:
Checking, not necessarily adjustment.


True dat. Thumbs Up

Most 125's seem to run 428 roller chains though & they seem to wear a lot quicker than big bike O & X ring chains. YBR needed a tweak every week, as did the H100.
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finchy95
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PostPosted: 18:11 - 30 Jan 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Obviously It's mad important to keep on top of the chain and everything! But what I meant is I don't have to worry about the van van and all its niggles. But I'm going to be super vigilant with the CBR and not letting it get into the state the van van was in.
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