Wheel bearings

[kramdra]

Bearings. How are they replaced? Mine are cup/cone with lose balls. Are you only supposed to replace the balls?!?

I would also like to replace the quick release with a solid axle, is it a simple swap? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251835378790

[stinkwheel]

You need 18, 1/4" ball bearings per wheel. Replace them all or replace none, do not mix ball bearings from different packs because the quality control is crap.

My number 1 tip is if you need to do pretty much anything to a bike, type the job into google with the word "sheldon". Sheldon Brown wrote detailed articles on pretty much everything you could possibly want to do on a bicycle before he died and they are all still on the internet.

Here's his one on servicing/overhauling cup and cone hubs:

https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[chris-red]

I've never found loose wheel bearings to need replacing, even if the bike is a complete heap.

Pull out the bearings into a dish, (have a magnet ready for when they drop all over the floor).

Put a splash of your solvent of choice into the dish and squish them around a bit.

Get another receptacle and line it with kitchen towel and transfer the bearing into it to absorb any left over solvent. I bet they'll look perfect.

Clean the old great out of the hubs, put new grease in and refit the existing bearings.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[chris-red]

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/13120_10153132999453476_6155602626862178798_n.jpg?oh=35a2bfa8f60584616207c309d59f36c0&oe=557BD900&__gda__=1434035905_6c16fd6776057b02931c7854cc290650

These wheel bearings were fine and spin as freely as a brand new wheel after a clean and regrease.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.

[Copycat73]

bein a connoisseur of halfrauds fines bicycle offerings I`ve replaced a couple sets of bearings per bike .. I just replace said balls .. but in a cadge.... some you need a fcukin magnet to stop the shards goin into your tires
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Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[kramdra]

Bicycles are fucking shit

Left side was covered in rust and deep pitting. I dont quite understand it as it cant have happened suddenly, but Ive done 500 or so miles on it since 2010. Only noticed when had the wheel out to put in car. Always kept in garage,but plenty of rides in wet.

I polished up the left cup but still has some pitting, and new balls. Its still quite rough, dont think I can use it.

I dont mind lose balls, cup and cone, fair enough, but the cups NEED to be replaceable.

Bicycle bearings are also unsealed, mine just rely on pathetic poor fit dust seals. One seal will never keep water out unless its pressurised. Motorbike/cars always have a sealed bearing, then an air gap, then a dust seal. Two seals work.


I could drill out the dust seal locator, heat the hub and smash the cup out and bodge a cartridge bearing in there. Or its 50 quid for a new wheel (one with proper bearings, and a disc mount)

[stinkwheel]

Learn to build wheels.

Then £50 will get you a kick-arse wheel.

Pitting like you describe is almost certainly a symptom of very poor initial build quality and total lack of maintainance (and by maintainance, I'm talking about a 6-monthly squirt of oil and a tighten up of the cups if the wheel starts rattling).

Like chris, I've worked on bicycles older than me (and I'm over 35), have been convinced I'm the first person to have the hub apart and only replaced the bearings because I had the wheel apart and the time to clean up the old balls oughtweighed the cost of new ones.

Sealed bearing hubs are available but are unecessary if the initial build was of even a moderate quality.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Copycat73]

I`m much of the opinion that bicycles are disposable.. pay your £125 and bin it after 3years.... getting attached turns them into money pits.
____________________
Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[kramdra]

[stinkwheel]

So you've never lubricate or seviced your bearings and are now blaming this on the design?

Grease to assemble. Oil to maintain until next service. I service mine once in a blue-moon if they are feeling a bit loose or rough and oil them when I oil the chain.

You CAN get sealed bearing hubs and they are being used increasingly, especially in MTBs but on a road cycle, they have a degree of friction from the seals a racer would consider unacceptable. A really well set up road wheel on well oiled open bearings will still be turning five-minutes after you give it a good spin.

I used a sturmey archer hub with sealed bearings on my mother in laws bike because she wont look after it, it's heavy and strong and won't break. If you want light and fast, you get cups and balls.

Most motorcycles come fitted with open ball bearings. I've had to replace them on most bikes I've owned at between 15 and 25k miles. Sooner on some.

[sickpup]

[kramdra]

Had another look at bike. The head bearings and pedals are the only good ones. The gear shifters work, thats about it perhaps time for new bike, I have done a lot of miles on this..

Front wheel bearings no rust but notchy - I've never touched them, they have never been loose therefore never needed adjustment, and have plenty of grease. No play in them.

Got the cranks off. Crank bearings are also fucked, hard to turn by hand without the crank, noisy, and with one crank it will not turn under its own weight from 1pm position. I have never touched the cranks before, so I am quite angry whoever has, the splines are chewed up and the lock ring has been cross threaded in wonky

I'm intending to buy a pair of these when he has more stock. I realise the bearings do not have a seat for a secondary/dust seal, but as they are replaceable and easy to grease I wont care.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141602427495

[chris-red]

[kramdra]

Cup and cone have a lower maximum RPM. No, they do not have less friction than plain 6303-2rs bearings.

Bicycle bottom bracket requires two specific tools that cost me 6 quid delivered. The BB tool was made of cheese and the splines melted on first attempt, grinder used to get fresh splines. Your replacement bottom bracket bearings must be almost free and therefore of shit quality if including the tool costs less than two 6303's.

Motorcycle wheel bearings are are very easy, no specific tools. You can grind an old outer shell to use as a drift so it wont get stuck when knocking fresh bearing in. Takes me about 15 mins.

A bloke at work has a £9000 carbon bicycle almost new, bearings are the normal bicycle shit, bog standard cup and cone

I got most of the bottom bracket out. The left thread is stuck, plan to drill two holes for a pin spanner.

[Irezumi aka Reuben]

How have you managed to ruin a bottom bracket?

Your tool must of been made of cheese! I assume the bike you have has a 3-piece crank? Get some Park tools, they will last forever.

Pushbikes have much lower service intervals than motorbikes or cars, unsurprisingly, on the plus side theyre a doddle to work on.
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