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Pootling in the Himalayas

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cdlxxvi
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Joined: 13 Feb 2012
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PostPosted: 23:21 - 23 Oct 2016    Post subject: Pootling in the Himalayas Reply with quote

The Mrs and I went to Ladakh for a few days. We flew to and stayed in Leh, which itself is a hideous little tourist trap, the only redeeming feature being some great Tibetan food and hospitality available. Still, whichever direction out of it you take, you will find itself surrounded by immense beauty. Windswept deserts, majestic peaks, clean rivers and hilltop monasteries are in abundance.
https://i63.tinypic.com/2cps5xd.jpg

The roads crossing the area are famed as some of the best for biking in India, so we did the right thing and rented this:
https://i63.tinypic.com/wapvsk.jpg

Aye, the wet dream of every boy on the subcontinent - the Bullet 500.
I rode another Enfield before and was not too impressed, so my expectations were rather low. It was therefore a pleasant surprise that for very reasonable 1100 rupees a day (haggled down from the tad expensive 1300 off-season price, the season standard being 1600) I got something rather nice, all things considered:
+ Did not break down even after some abuse
+ Coping well when a road is just the strip of land with slightly fewer rocks than the surroundings
+ Quite comfortable for whole day riding (but not so for the pillion, her seat being much narrower)
+ Excellent fuel economy (3-4l/100km or about 80mpg in medieval)
- Prehistoric engine. Teeth-cracking vibrations, terrific racket and no power to speak of.
- Front brake worse than the one on KLE. And that's quite something.
https://i63.tinypic.com/wapvsk.jpg

The low parts of the Srinagar highway are perfect for relaxing rides. Easy and smooth, with mile after mile of cool air and distant scenery.
https://i63.tinypic.com/19ov3q.jpg

Instead of lighting and crash barriers the Border Roads Organisation tries to enable common sense.
https://i66.tinypic.com/21o4wba.jpg

Every so often you need to stop for an army and/or police checkpoint. The state of Jammu and Kashmir being wedged between China and Pakistan is heavily militarised.
https://i67.tinypic.com/149z792.jpg

Leaving the valleys and climbing a bit, things are cool figuratively and literally.
https://i67.tinypic.com/14mb2it.jpg

One of the popular roads is towards Pangong Tso, a mountain lake on the Chinese border. To get there you need to go over the Chang La pass. The climb towards it is very rewarding scenery wise.
https://i68.tinypic.com/290ufys.jpg

The road is the toughest we went on. Many kilometres with bad surfaces, steep slopes and hairpins all mixed together.
https://i65.tinypic.com/rb9x6g.jpg

Still, the views. The views!
https://i66.tinypic.com/t537tl.jpg

After that, Pangong Tso itself does not seem so wonderful.
https://i67.tinypic.com/racaoy.jpg

Another way out of Leh is north, through Khardung La pass. Touted as the highest motorable road in the world (which it is not), it is certainly (one of?) the best. The first 20km of the climb from Leh is spanking new, smooth surface on an overdose of winding wonderland.
https://i63.tinypic.com/5x4wok.jpg

With a rocky layer cake all around it is difficult to keep eyes on the road.
https://i63.tinypic.com/9qdzb4.jpg

Higher up, though, the weather gets tricky. These black strips will disappear in half a mile or so.
https://i66.tinypic.com/2j5gvix.jpg

The last 2km or so to the top of the pass is an ice rink. Cars without snow chains are rare. Those big crash bars on the Bullet got tested many times.
https://i63.tinypic.com/2md15wm.jpg

All that makes it feel more rewarding to get there.
https://i65.tinypic.com/2e4et5s.jpg

All in all, it felt like a proper adventure. Chilled to the bone, dropping the bike on ice, narrow mountain roads in total darkness, miles away from the nearest phone should something go wrong - an interesting change from Cat and Fiddle on a Sunday afternoon. After those few days I definitely want more; the entire Srinagar-Leh-Manali route is now on my bucket list.


Last edited by cdlxxvi on 13:38 - 30 Oct 2016; edited 13 times in total
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doggone
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Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

That must be one of the highest places you can drive too in the world.
Walking far must have been tough.
Highest I've been is Mont Blanc a bit over 10,000 feet and you knew about it there.

Amazing place to ride.
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KTMTony
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome trip bud lovely pictures and read well done sir.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see no pictures, only tiny little squares?
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waffles
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
I see no pictures, only tiny little squares?


Ditto, I want to see the photos that go with the writeup but they aren't showing up.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

They were good pics too. Neutral
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KTMTony
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Photos are still showing for me guys.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://cdn.meme.am/instances/500x/72670138.jpg
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cdlxxvi
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems like iCloud is not the best choice for hosting photos; I'll upload them somewhere else tomorrow.
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cdlxxvi
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pictures are now hosted on Tinypic - hopefully that will work for longer.
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waffles
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely stunning pictures and an interesting writeup!
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 30 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic Thumbs Up
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