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Waaarrrggghhh
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| angryjonny |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
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 Posted: 00:50 - 03 Nov 2016  Post subject: |
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| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | Alright, I've decided I am going to do it and will book it in December, before Christmas. |
 | Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | I'm mostly worried about the module 1 test, the U turn and hazard avoidance swerve look really difficult. |
Worry is your worst enemy. If you are doing this with no pretraining, think "FUKIT it's only £15!" It's cheaper than a lesson to practice it on a playground that's probably too small for the speed trap and estop loop anyway!! Treat it as a siting run.
Tips? On a 125 you haven't got the power to spare on the speed trap runs; and on a YBR, you are inconveniently betwixt gears.... they have dropped the min speed requirement a couple of clicks, but it's still 'right' on the boarder between 1st & 2nd on most 4T 125 singles..... you probably wont beat the radar if you do the loop in 1st, whilst in 2nd, if you roll off, particularly to make the jink at the end of the loop, you will probably loose speed you wont be able to put back on to beat the radar.
Snowie, amusingly did it all on her Super-Dream twin, in 1st.... I was stood outside the chain-link; heard her scream the knackers off the thing going into the loop, and then muff her change.. so actually watched as she 'ducked' into a racer crouch, and stretched the throttle cables determined to WILL it to rev to necessary speed.. I was wincing with mechanical sympathy, and when I looked up so was the examiner  .... THEN there was a rather acute change of engine note, and a very loud clattering!!!! I wheeled the bike into the car-park whilst she went through the paperwork, and lifting the rocker cover revealed she'd actually chucked a tappet!!!! Moral is? Head down, grit teeth, and shit or bust go for it.. works!
And don't roll off for that jink at the end of the loop; don't make it two bends, treat it like coming off a roundabout and keep it pinned.
E-Stop, you have a lot more room to stop in than you probably think, and the common mistakes are snatching a big first of front, or slamming both and locking the back. Avoid by NOT trying to do an 'e-stop, you know where it's going to be, so just do a fairly brisk ordinary control stop, and DONT PANIC
Swerve? Again, you know where and when its got to happen, so don't panic; and then its just like dodging a raised man hole cover or pot hole; dont sweat it, dont over react, just do it.
U-turns? Mostly vex DAS newbs most as they dont like tilting such a heavy bike to make it tight turn. On a short light YBR aught be a doddle. Head up, where you look is where you go; DONT fixate on the kerbs, and don't wuss it.
Usual 'problem is that folk will start too far to the center of the lane; drift to the middle before they start to turn, then not turn as acutely as they need and run out of room, and when they realise smack down a boot.
Tip is to bottle kneck it; imaginge going all the way around a roundabout; three turns; first to the left, point it at the near side kerb and ride RIGHT up to it; second turn, just before you hit left kerb turn right, to make the 'U', with as much room as you can to do it in; and TILT the bludy thing to make it tight turn and get as MUCH turning done in that first quarter as you can.. so you have all the room you can on the right to complete the turn with spare, and can pull the bike through with a little acceleration to pick it back up, rather than your boot.... then third turn to the left to put it back on the straight and narrow at the end.
Find quiet suburban street or industrial estate to practice on; and you will probably find that on Mod you actually have more room on the playground to do it than you do where you have practiced.
DONT feel the need to slip and drag; Ie feather the clutch and drag the back brake to 'under drive' the gearbox, to go slower than tickover will allow... you are on a 125 for gaweds sake, you can ride it 'clean' clutch out for almost all the slow speed maneuvers, walking pace is only 4mph and that's probably closer to 2ooo rpm than tickover; you dont 'need' to slip and drag, which is the motorcycling equivalent of patting your head and rubbing your tummy!!!
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | in that I don't do excessive shoulder checks |
Ambigiouse terminology abounds and confounds this area. Try and ignore it; do it BY THE BOOK.
- OBSERVATION
- PLAN
- SIGNAL
- {confidence check}
- Position
- Confidence Check
- Manouver
- {confidence check}
Thats the mantra;
'first' obs should actually be forward checking the scene and periferal vision before doing full rearward 'observation', which these days lax standard concede may be in the mirrors... mirrors aren't mandatory on a motorbike though so old school says look over your shoulder regardless, and it is good form
Signal after observations, and depending on delay before 'positioning' you may be advised to do a second glance confidence check to be sure before actually positioning.
Then a last confidence check before actually maneuvering.
And again, circumstance dependent, you may be advised to do another confidence check 'during' or on concluding the maneuver.
But potting that a bit; 'Rear Obs BEFORE', 'confidence Checks DURING'.
On test, missing the odd obs or confidence check is only a minor, you wont fail for missing one or two, but if you miss a lot, then it will score as a 'repetitive' hence major and fail... doing too many obs, is unlikely to be a fail, BUT, it is a common fail for untutored candidates, and the nodding dog effect wil tell an examiner you aren't actually doing propper obs... just moving your head about a lot 'cos you really don't know when or where or what you are supposed to be looking for... so be strategic, make observations 'deliberate' don't just glance around LOOK, and remember Obs, Plan, {check} Signal, Position, Check, Manouver, {check}, so anything you need 'signal' will need obs, if you don't need to signal, it probably don't!
Its a bit of discipline; check online tutorials DSA approved ones for preference for advice, and apply.
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | in that I don't do excessive shoulder checks |
Ambigiouse ter
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | I filter through traffic. |
On test... DONT.. that's all. there's no 'rush' and there's no need.
All you would do is give yourself more ground to cover during the 30 minutes of ride time, AND inordinately more opportunity for examiner to fail you for causing hazard or breaking a road law.. so don't do it and 'make' opportunities for a fail.
You will be expected to make progress, and you will be expected to over-take if and when warranted by road situation, and you will be expected to show 'confidence' but also 'discretion' when to employ it!
Filtering is NOT the best opportunity to display confidence in making progress or over taking! so try and find better ones!
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | and keep with the flow of traffic (so if the speed limit is 30 but everybody is doing close to 40 I will do close to 40 too). |
Remember break the law, you fail.... its a dilemah you WILL have to face, and if you don't 'make progress' or keep with the flow of traffic, you could risk picking up a major for causing hazard, BUT 10 over in a 30? you will most likely get a major for failing to observe posted speed limit.
Examiner has a 'little' discretion here; and he does know it is a judgement call; but if you simply go with the flow regardless, then he will likely not give benefit of the doubt, as obvious you are not observing posted limits and hoping that other drivers are doing that job for you... LOOK for the speed limit signs, clock them, and obey them, PRETTY closely... but dont be afraid to be a little assertive and use your judgement.
THIS is crucial; and advice above is just test tips; BUT what the examiner is looking for is simply a legal safe and confident ride; dress up those bad habbits for sure, but DO NOT put on a 'show ride' and try riding it how you THINK the examiner wants to see you ride not how you do... let them see that; don't put on a 'show' that they will recognize as such, and only know that as soon as they have given you a pass/fail cert you will do everything differently, for better or worse;
Ride it naturally, and be confident; show them what you 'normally' do and you will far more likely be given any benefit of the doubt, and remember there aren't many instant fails, you stand better chance of passing than you probably imagine, and end of the day, worry is your worst enemy... get on, and do, listen to the chap at the end, and if he no say yay.. you come back another day, knowing what you need to put it right.
Best of luck with it.. and DON'T WORRY
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Waaarrrggghhh |
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Waaarrrggghhh
Nitrous Nuisance
Joined: 27 Oct 2016
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| Posted: 08:14 - 03 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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| Alpineandy wrote: | | Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | Alright, I've decided I am going to do it and will book it in December, before Christmas. |
What are you going to do exactly? |
haha what
| Teflon-Mike wrote: | | Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | Alright, I've decided I am going to do it and will book it in December, before Christmas. |
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | I'm mostly worried about the module 1 test, the U turn and hazard avoidance swerve look really difficult. |
Worry is your worst enemy. If you are doing this with no pretraining, think "FUKIT it's only £15!" It's cheaper than a lesson to practice it on a playground that's probably too small for the speed trap and estop loop anyway!! Treat it as a siting run.
Tips? On a 125 you haven't got the power to spare on the speed trap runs; and on a YBR, you are inconveniently betwixt gears.... they have dropped the min speed requirement a couple of clicks, but it's still 'right' on the boarder between 1st & 2nd on most 4T 125 singles..... you probably wont beat the radar if you do the loop in 1st, whilst in 2nd, if you roll off, particularly to make the jink at the end of the loop, you will probably loose speed you wont be able to put back on to beat the radar.
Snowie, amusingly did it all on her Super-Dream twin, in 1st.... I was stood outside the chain-link; heard her scream the knackers off the thing going into the loop, and then muff her change.. so actually watched as she 'ducked' into a racer crouch, and stretched the throttle cables determined to WILL it to rev to necessary speed.. I was wincing with mechanical sympathy, and when I looked up so was the examiner .... THEN there was a rather acute change of engine note, and a very loud clattering!!!! I wheeled the bike into the car-park whilst she went through the paperwork, and lifting the rocker cover revealed she'd actually chucked a tappet!!!! Moral is? Head down, grit teeth, and shit or bust go for it.. works!
And don't roll off for that jink at the end of the loop; don't make it two bends, treat it like coming off a roundabout and keep it pinned.
E-Stop, you have a lot more room to stop in than you probably think, and the common mistakes are snatching a big first of front, or slamming both and locking the back. Avoid by NOT trying to do an 'e-stop, you know where it's going to be, so just do a fairly brisk ordinary control stop, and DONT PANIC
Swerve? Again, you know where and when its got to happen, so don't panic; and then its just like dodging a raised man hole cover or pot hole; dont sweat it, dont over react, just do it.
U-turns? Mostly vex DAS newbs most as they dont like tilting such a heavy bike to make it tight turn. On a short light YBR aught be a doddle. Head up, where you look is where you go; DONT fixate on the kerbs, and don't wuss it.
Usual 'problem is that folk will start too far to the center of the lane; drift to the middle before they start to turn, then not turn as acutely as they need and run out of room, and when they realise smack down a boot.
Tip is to bottle kneck it; imaginge going all the way around a roundabout; three turns; first to the left, point it at the near side kerb and ride RIGHT up to it; second turn, just before you hit left kerb turn right, to make the 'U', with as much room as you can to do it in; and TILT the bludy thing to make it tight turn and get as MUCH turning done in that first quarter as you can.. so you have all the room you can on the right to complete the turn with spare, and can pull the bike through with a little acceleration to pick it back up, rather than your boot.... then third turn to the left to put it back on the straight and narrow at the end.
Find quiet suburban street or industrial estate to practice on; and you will probably find that on Mod you actually have more room on the playground to do it than you do where you have practiced.
DONT feel the need to slip and drag; Ie feather the clutch and drag the back brake to 'under drive' the gearbox, to go slower than tickover will allow... you are on a 125 for gaweds sake, you can ride it 'clean' clutch out for almost all the slow speed maneuvers, walking pace is only 4mph and that's probably closer to 2ooo rpm than tickover; you dont 'need' to slip and drag, which is the motorcycling equivalent of patting your head and rubbing your tummy!!!
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | in that I don't do excessive shoulder checks |
Ambigiouse terminology abounds and confounds this area. Try and ignore it; do it BY THE BOOK.
- OBSERVATION
- PLAN
- SIGNAL
- {confidence check}
- Position
- Confidence Check
- Manouver
- {confidence check}
Thats the mantra;
'first' obs should actually be forward checking the scene and periferal vision before doing full rearward 'observation', which these days lax standard concede may be in the mirrors... mirrors aren't mandatory on a motorbike though so old school says look over your shoulder regardless, and it is good form
Signal after observations, and depending on delay before 'positioning' you may be advised to do a second glance confidence check to be sure before actually positioning.
Then a last confidence check before actually maneuvering.
And again, circumstance dependent, you may be advised to do another confidence check 'during' or on concluding the maneuver.
But potting that a bit; 'Rear Obs BEFORE', 'confidence Checks DURING'.
On test, missing the odd obs or confidence check is only a minor, you wont fail for missing one or two, but if you miss a lot, then it will score as a 'repetitive' hence major and fail... doing too many obs, is unlikely to be a fail, BUT, it is a common fail for untutored candidates, and the nodding dog effect wil tell an examiner you aren't actually doing propper obs... just moving your head about a lot 'cos you really don't know when or where or what you are supposed to be looking for... so be strategic, make observations 'deliberate' don't just glance around LOOK, and remember Obs, Plan, {check} Signal, Position, Check, Manouver, {check}, so anything you need 'signal' will need obs, if you don't need to signal, it probably don't!
Its a bit of discipline; check online tutorials DSA approved ones for preference for advice, and apply.
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | in that I don't do excessive shoulder checks |
Ambigiouse ter
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | I filter through traffic. |
On test... DONT.. that's all. there's no 'rush' and there's no need.
All you would do is give yourself more ground to cover during the 30 minutes of ride time, AND inordinately more opportunity for examiner to fail you for causing hazard or breaking a road law.. so don't do it and 'make' opportunities for a fail.
You will be expected to make progress, and you will be expected to over-take if and when warranted by road situation, and you will be expected to show 'confidence' but also 'discretion' when to employ it!
Filtering is NOT the best opportunity to display confidence in making progress or over taking! so try and find better ones!
| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | and keep with the flow of traffic (so if the speed limit is 30 but everybody is doing close to 40 I will do close to 40 too). |
Remember break the law, you fail.... its a dilemah you WILL have to face, and if you don't 'make progress' or keep with the flow of traffic, you could risk picking up a major for causing hazard, BUT 10 over in a 30? you will most likely get a major for failing to observe posted speed limit.
Examiner has a 'little' discretion here; and he does know it is a judgement call; but if you simply go with the flow regardless, then he will likely not give benefit of the doubt, as obvious you are not observing posted limits and hoping that other drivers are doing that job for you... LOOK for the speed limit signs, clock them, and obey them, PRETTY closely... but dont be afraid to be a little assertive and use your judgement.
THIS is crucial; and advice above is just test tips; BUT what the examiner is looking for is simply a legal safe and confident ride; dress up those bad habbits for sure, but DO NOT put on a 'show ride' and try riding it how you THINK the examiner wants to see you ride not how you do... let them see that; don't put on a 'show' that they will recognize as such, and only know that as soon as they have given you a pass/fail cert you will do everything differently, for better or worse;
Ride it naturally, and be confident; show them what you 'normally' do and you will far more likely be given any benefit of the doubt, and remember there aren't many instant fails, you stand better chance of passing than you probably imagine, and end of the day, worry is your worst enemy... get on, and do, listen to the chap at the end, and if he no say yay.. you come back another day, knowing what you need to put it right.
Best of luck with it.. and DON'T WORRY |
This is great thanks so much |
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| Rogerborg |
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Rogerborg
nimbA
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| Posted: 10:10 - 03 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | I'm mostly worried about the module 1 test, the U turn and hazard avoidance swerve look really difficult. |
They're not.
Plenty of revs on the u-turn, take it round on the clutch.
The swerve is nothing that you don't do regularly on the road, it's just a change of direction then a stop, on a grippy surface.
They even made it easier in the past couple of years with a wider exit from the bend, and a lower speed limit. The tricky bit is getting up to speed on a 125 - stay in 2nd round the bend, go as fast as you can, then wide open throttle as you exit and hold it all the way to the speed line. My Chinese fake-away made it to 50kph in 2nd gear, and I'd be surprised if your bike can't.
In both the stop tests, don't press hard on the rear brake, or even at all - the front should be sufficient to stop you. Locking up is a fail, so why take the risk?
Anyway, it only costs £15.50 to have a go and settle your nerves. Just treat the first one as practice, and a bonus if you pass. You'll be surprised how quick and easy it is.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| Posted: 09:38 - 04 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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The theory will be good for both, so it's £90.50 for the A1 tests. Think of it as £15.50 to practice mod 1 (recommended at the price), with an option to spend a further £75 practising mod 2.
Then he'll be able to go to a school next May clutching a licence obtained the hard way which shows that he just needs some familiarisation with a bigger bike rather than a full zero-to-hero course.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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Teflon-Mike
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| Posted: 18:22 - 05 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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| Waaarrrggghhh wrote: | Do you think I can get through module 1 doing only my own practice? |
£15.50 Go book, do and find out! You'll get better answer of man with clipboard than any of us!
Remember, worry is your worst enemy.
Looking at the cone map and exerciser script, you get the idea its ultra complicated... it isn't.. it's 15 mins of CBT exercises you did on your first lesson!
And you only do ONE exercise at a time, and the examiner talks you through it before you do it, so ALL you really have to do is turn up; listen to the instructions, do as you are told and DON'T WORRY!!
Pass/Fail chances? It's not anticipated you will fail the first; but don't get your hopes up. Odds are probably about evens, and even folk that have had pre-training for it, still succumb to test nerves and 'dumb luck'.
Popper observations in 'make believe' world of the play-ground are common niggle; but banging a foot down on the U-turn, locking the rear on the e-stop or kicking a cone on the slalom all catch folk out...
Bottom line... £15.50, it's the cheapest way to 'practice' it; DON'T WORRY! Turn up, listen to what you are told; do what you are told; keep calm, and just do it, and you stand as much chance of pass as anyone, and IF you fail, man with clipboard will tell you what you did wrong, and you turn up next time, knowing what you got to do, and how to 'pass'.
Dont worry, just do! Stop Thinking Start Riding.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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The last post was made 7 years, 172 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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