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| Falco |
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 Falco Traffic Copper

Joined: 26 Nov 2015 Karma :  
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 Posted: 13:48 - 01 Feb 2017 Post subject: Front Brake Binding On New Pads Only |
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So the issues with my brake have morphed into something new. This morning I removed the calipers, replaced the original seals (they were fine but I'd originally thought I'd change them anyway) and took out the dust seals in case they were causing problems with the pistons retracting. No luck, still binding.
However putting the old pads back in the binding has mysteriously gone! The pistons were more of less spotless with only a couple of marks that I didn't feel rough at all.
Is it possible the new pads are slightly over-sized and will wear in or is there something stopping the piston from retracting properly when the pad is bigger? |
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| tom_e |
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 tom_e Brolly Dolly
Joined: 27 Feb 2016 Karma :  
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| Falco |
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 Falco Traffic Copper

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| davethekwak |
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 davethekwak Nitrous Nuisance

Joined: 25 Jan 2017 Karma :     
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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| Falco |
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 Falco Traffic Copper

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| Petemate |
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 Petemate Trackday Trickster
Joined: 13 Nov 2015 Karma :  
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| RhynoCZ |
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 RhynoCZ Super Spammer

Joined: 09 Mar 2012 Karma :     
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 Posted: 23:03 - 01 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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OP, go for a short ride and don't use the brake in question. Then touch the brake disc/s in question. If piping hot, then you have a problem. If cold or mildly warm, then it's just a matter of time till it settles on its own.
Also, IF you can roll the motorcycle, then the brake binding is not as bad as you are describing it.
To speed things up, I used to go for a ride and slightly applied pressure on the brake lever/pedal while keeping the throttle open. That would wear the pads quicker. DO NOT over do this, DO NOT put more pressure on the brake lever/pedal then it's necessary. IF it's the front brake, then too much brake + throttle equals you crashing the motorcycle. Also, DO NOT overheat the brake. ____________________ '87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
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| Falco |
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 Falco Traffic Copper

Joined: 26 Nov 2015 Karma :  
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 Posted: 00:36 - 02 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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| Petemate wrote: | Given that they are correct pads, and made to the right specs regarding size and shape, are all the mating surfaces in the caliper body etc completely clean? Pads can resist full retraction back to the correct position if there is the slightest crud in the tiny crevices and corners. Even badly applied paint on the corners of the metal pad backing can have an effect - I have in the past frequently had to sand away blobs of paint from the corners of the pad metal. Also best to ensure that on all the moving parts only grease is (sparingly!) applied and copper grease only applied between the back of the pads and the caliper. I read somewhere years ago that copper grease can degenerate into tiny balls of copper and thus no good for moving parts.
HTH |
Thanks for the tip, I cleaned the whole thing while it was off the bike. The insides were spotless as were the pistons, the outside was as clean as I could get it with rags and a toothbrush with brake cleaner.
I'll have a look at the back of the pads to see if there is anything out of place. There is red rubber grease on the sliding pins and on the seals to get the pistons in. Coppaslip goes on the end of the pad retaining pin that goes into the blind hole and the R clip that holds it.
| RhynoCZ wrote: | OP, go for a short ride and don't use the brake in question. Then touch the brake disc/s in question. If piping hot, then you have a problem. If cold or mildly warm, then it's just a matter of time till it settles on its own.
Also, IF you can roll the motorcycle, then the brake binding is not as bad as you are describing it.
To speed things up, I used to go for a ride and slightly applied pressure on the brake lever/pedal while keeping the throttle open. That would wear the pads quicker. DO NOT over do this, DO NOT put more pressure on the brake lever/pedal then it's necessary. IF it's the front brake, then too much brake + throttle equals you crashing the motorcycle. Also, DO NOT overheat the brake. |
I did just as you suggest last night, the ride was maybe a mile in total, stopped after 0.5 mile and checked it and again at the end. It was warm to the touch but not hot, however it was pissing with rain so I wonder if the spray was taking some of the heat out of it.
The bike can be rolled (though reversing it feels like going uphill) but the resistance can be felt.
Cheers for the tips, I have run out of time for this week, but I am planning to put the new seals back in next weekend, so I will put the new pads in at the same time and do as you suggest to see if it can be freed up. |
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| tom_e |
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 tom_e Brolly Dolly
Joined: 27 Feb 2016 Karma :  
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| TUG |
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 TUG World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 May 2007 Karma :  
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 Posted: 09:27 - 02 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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| Falco wrote: | | Petemate wrote: | Given that they are correct pads, and made to the right specs regarding size and shape, are all the mating surfaces in the caliper body etc completely clean? Pads can resist full retraction back to the correct position if there is the slightest crud in the tiny crevices and corners. Even badly applied paint on the corners of the metal pad backing can have an effect - I have in the past frequently had to sand away blobs of paint from the corners of the pad metal. Also best to ensure that on all the moving parts only grease is (sparingly!) applied and copper grease only applied between the back of the pads and the caliper. I read somewhere years ago that copper grease can degenerate into tiny balls of copper and thus no good for moving parts.
HTH |
Thanks for the tip, I cleaned the whole thing while it was off the bike. The insides were spotless as were the pistons, the outside was as clean as I could get it with rags and a toothbrush with brake cleaner.
I'll have a look at the back of the pads to see if there is anything out of place. There is red rubber grease on the sliding pins and on the seals to get the pistons in. Coppaslip goes on the end of the pad retaining pin that goes into the blind hole and the R clip that holds it.
| RhynoCZ wrote: | OP, go for a short ride and don't use the brake in question. Then touch the brake disc/s in question. If piping hot, then you have a problem. If cold or mildly warm, then it's just a matter of time till it settles on its own.
Also, IF you can roll the motorcycle, then the brake binding is not as bad as you are describing it.
To speed things up, I used to go for a ride and slightly applied pressure on the brake lever/pedal while keeping the throttle open. That would wear the pads quicker. DO NOT over do this, DO NOT put more pressure on the brake lever/pedal then it's necessary. IF it's the front brake, then too much brake + throttle equals you crashing the motorcycle. Also, DO NOT overheat the brake. |
I did just as you suggest last night, the ride was maybe a mile in total, stopped after 0.5 mile and checked it and again at the end. It was warm to the touch but not hot, however it was pissing with rain so I wonder if the spray was taking some of the heat out of it.
The bike can be rolled (though reversing it feels like going uphill) but the resistance can be felt.
Cheers for the tips, I have run out of time for this week, but I am planning to put the new seals back in next weekend, so I will put the new pads in at the same time and do as you suggest to see if it can be freed up. |
If it's an ER5 then the caliper may not be returning correctly on the slide, failing that it might be missing a retaining spring for the pads which my last ER5 had missing causing some binding. ____________________ Haz ER-5, innit! |
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| chris-red |
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 chris-red Have you considered a TDM?

Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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| Baffler186 |
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 Baffler186 World Chat Champion

Joined: 31 May 2013 Karma :   
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 9 years, 8 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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