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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Aug 2016 Karma :
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Posted: 18:33 - 17 Feb 2017 Post subject: Honda H100 electric gremlins |
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Hi all, back again.
I want to try and understand but it just won't go into my thick skull I guess.
I've had this bike since September and in that time I've had the headlight work consistently for one journey. I'll start from the top:
I removed the indicators in September because the rear ones didn't work. Removed them all. Went through several headlight bulbs - they kept blowing at like 4-5k rpm.
In January, I chucked in a new battery and headlight bulb. Hey presto, it all worked brilliantly, went out for a ride to a mate's, high beams and all, everything was perfect.
Didn't use bike for about 2 weeks and it sat under a cover. Got it out and went to start it and at some point I'd knocked the throttle cable so she was revving up on startup. Had to adjust that. When I finally got it settled and running, I checked all the lights. The TAIL light and DIPPED beam don't work, but the brake light and HIGH beam did. How that works I don't know, as they share bulbs!
Got it out again today and it blew the high beam on startup so now I just have a brake light (no tailight) and a front sidelight. I checked the battery fuse and that's been blown as well at some point unknown to me.
It is literally driving me nuts - i love riding but I'm very lucky it's just a hobby for the love and not my sole form of transportation... ____________________ '90 Honda H100SII (SJ)
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chris-red |
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chris-red Have you considered a TDM?
Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 19:52 - 17 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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Popping headlamp bulbs is nothing at all to do with the battery or charging system.
Your bike has direct lighting. The headlight and tail light are powered directly from the generator coil when the engine is running.
The brake light, side lights, flashers and instrument lights are powered from the battery.
Your bulbs need to be the correct wattage or chaos and cascade bulb failures will ensue.
So you need a 25/25w headlight bulb and a 21w/5w stop and tail. There should also be a ballast resistor on the bottom yoke behind the little plastic trim. It should have a good contact with earth, the cable running into it is prone to corrosion.
Check the earth for the taillight cluster (usually on the rear mudguards central mounting bolt.
The lighting system for these bikes is very rudimentary and not very good but should be very reliable. If it's not, something is wrong.
Unfortunately, they get messed about with a lot by inept 17 year olds in an attempt to be able to see where you're going using the headlight. You can't. The headlight is to be seen by, not to see with. Accept this and move on with your life. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Aug 2016 Karma :
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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
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cb1rocket |
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cb1rocket World Chat Champion
Joined: 30 Jan 2010 Karma :
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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
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cb1rocket |
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cb1rocket World Chat Champion
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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
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Piercee100 |
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Piercee100 Trackday Trickster
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Karma :
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Posted: 07:28 - 21 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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Hiya,
I own an early H100a with its own electrical gemlins, mostly caused by the direct lighting system. The answer is to always ride with the dipped beam switched on as without this it overcharges the system and starts blowing bulbs although I usually do two or three a year. If the headlight bulb blows, it usually starts blwing others in the system, speedo backlight first then brake / tailight followed by indicators. When at idle the headlight is just a candle glow and the indicators wont flash, but as soon as you start moving then all is good. ____________________ Rides: Honda H100a (Retired), VT500e (Sold), Kawasaki ZX400 (sold), Kawasaki GT550 (Sold), Suzuki Inazuma (Daily), Honda CD185t (Broken), LML Star 2t (Last run edition). |
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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 10:41 - 21 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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Piercee100 wrote: | Hiya,
I own an early H100a with its own electrical gemlins, mostly caused by the direct lighting system. The answer is to always ride with the dipped beam switched on as without this it overcharges the system and starts blowing bulbs although I usually do two or three a year. If the headlight bulb blows, it usually starts blwing others in the system, speedo backlight first then brake / tailight followed by indicators. When at idle the headlight is just a candle glow and the indicators wont flash, but as soon as you start moving then all is good. |
It'll charge the battery at about half the normal rate when the headlamp is on.
I will once again reiterate though, the state of the battery has nothing at all to do with the headlamp, taillight and instrument bulbs. If the headlight is off, the power that would have been going to it goes to the battery instead.
Your riding about with the headlamp on all the time can't be preventing you popping headlamp bulbs. If one goes, the other do tend to go shortly afterwards.
One thing I've never trusted with those systems is the position light/sidelight. That's where the ballast comes in. I never use it, it's either headlights on or off for me with an unregulated direct lighting system.
Of course fitting a £30 AC regulator somewhere in the headlamp circuit would entirely fix the problem of popped bulbs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-BANTAM-D1-D3-D5-D7-6V-AC-REGULATOR-NO-BULB-BLOWING-B701-/360165848699?hash=item53db8eb67b:g:-NgAAOxyjxlTNAmQ ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 15 Aug 2016 Karma :
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Posted: 10:51 - 21 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel wrote: | Piercee100 wrote: | Hiya,
I own an early H100a with its own electrical gemlins, mostly caused by the direct lighting system. The answer is to always ride with the dipped beam switched on as without this it overcharges the system and starts blowing bulbs although I usually do two or three a year. If the headlight bulb blows, it usually starts blwing others in the system, speedo backlight first then brake / tailight followed by indicators. When at idle the headlight is just a candle glow and the indicators wont flash, but as soon as you start moving then all is good. |
It'll charge the battery at about half the normal rate when the headlamp is on.
I will once again reiterate though, the state of the battery has nothing at all to do with the headlamp, taillight and instrument bulbs. If the headlight is off, the power that would have been going to it goes to the battery instead.
Your riding about with the headlamp on all the time can't be preventing you popping headlamp bulbs. If one goes, the other do tend to go shortly afterwards.
One thing I've never trusted with those systems is the position light/sidelight. That's where the ballast comes in. I never use it, it's either headlights on or off for me with an unregulated direct lighting system.
Of course fitting a £30 AC regulator somewhere in the headlamp circuit would entirely fix the problem of popped bulbs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-BANTAM-D1-D3-D5-D7-6V-AC-REGULATOR-NO-BULB-BLOWING-B701-/360165848699?hash=item53db8eb67b:g:-NgAAOxyjxlTNAmQ |
I'll keep that in mind. She's cooperating at the moment and gone in for MOT! ____________________ '90 Honda H100SII (SJ)
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Petemate |
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Petemate Trackday Trickster
Joined: 13 Nov 2015 Karma :
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Posted: 11:23 - 21 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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All very interesting, and my heart goes out to all with similar systems. I do accept that if they are all as per manufacturers' specs, there should be no problems.
Years ago I had a 1972 CB125S, great little bike, owned by me for about 3 years, bought new, which I used mainly for commuting 3 miles to and from work. I never in all that 3 years experienced any electrical problems whatever, at the time of trading it in it still had all the original bulbs in and working. Memory fade means I can't recall what system it had, not even the voltage lol. The only problem I had was after a couple of years it shat some teeth on one of the 4th gear wheels. I replaced only the bad gear (I know, silly but no ill after effects)
I digress. My current bike has an abysmal headlight of 35/35. I intend to replace this with one of my stocks of 60/55. I have checked the charge rate with dip on and pass button pressed to simulate the higher wattage demand, and the charge rate at 3000 rpm is about 13.6 and rises with higher revs. The bike specs show the alternator has a 190 watt output. Hopefully it will all be OK but we will see. ____________________ 82 not out....1983 Honda LA250 Custom
2008 Saab 9-3 1.9 Tid 150 Vector Sport estate
2005 Stirling Eccles Topaz 2-berth |
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cb1rocket |
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cb1rocket World Chat Champion
Joined: 30 Jan 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 11:29 - 21 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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Petemate wrote: | All very interesting, and my heart goes out to all with similar systems. I do accept that if they are all as per manufacturers' specs, there should be no problems.
Years ago I had a 1972 CB125S, great little bike, owned by me for about 3 years, bought new, which I used mainly for commuting 3 miles to and from work. I never in all that 3 years experienced any electrical problems whatever, at the time of trading it in it still had all the original bulbs in and working. Memory fade means I can't recall what system it had, not even the voltage lol. The only problem I had was after a couple of years it shat some teeth on one of the 4th gear wheels. I replaced only the bad gear (I know, silly but no ill after effects)
I digress. My current bike has an abysmal headlight of 35/35. I intend to replace this with one of my stocks of 60/55. I have checked the charge rate with dip on and pass button pressed to simulate the higher wattage demand, and the charge rate at 3000 rpm is about 13.6 and rises with higher revs. The bike specs show the alternator has a 190 watt output. Hopefully it will all be OK but we will see. |
what's worse for the H100 is the circuit system is all powered at 6v! ____________________ Honda H100S2 Rebuild - https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=253852 |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Petemate |
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Petemate Trackday Trickster
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chris-red |
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chris-red Have you considered a TDM?
Joined: 21 Sep 2005 Karma :
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Posted: 14:04 - 21 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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What type of bulb is it? You can get get more efficient bulbs now. LED Halogen etc.
I have replaced my RXS headlight with a Halogen one and it was much bright with out using more power. I also replaced my Indicators with LED's to free up more watts. I feel like working on the lighting of a 6v bike is like a shit Apollo 13. ____________________ Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything. |
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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
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chris-red |
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chris-red Have you considered a TDM?
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eunos20b |
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eunos20b Borekit Bruiser
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 7 years, 62 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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