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Honda H100 electric gremlins

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eunos20b
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 17 Feb 2017    Post subject: Honda H100 electric gremlins Reply with quote

Hi all, back again. Mad

I want to try and understand but it just won't go into my thick skull I guess.

I've had this bike since September and in that time I've had the headlight work consistently for one journey. I'll start from the top:

I removed the indicators in September because the rear ones didn't work. Removed them all. Went through several headlight bulbs - they kept blowing at like 4-5k rpm.

In January, I chucked in a new battery and headlight bulb. Hey presto, it all worked brilliantly, went out for a ride to a mate's, high beams and all, everything was perfect.

Didn't use bike for about 2 weeks and it sat under a cover. Got it out and went to start it and at some point I'd knocked the throttle cable so she was revving up on startup. Had to adjust that. When I finally got it settled and running, I checked all the lights. The TAIL light and DIPPED beam don't work, but the brake light and HIGH beam did. How that works I don't know, as they share bulbs!

Got it out again today and it blew the high beam on startup so now I just have a brake light (no tailight) and a front sidelight. I checked the battery fuse and that's been blown as well at some point unknown to me.

It is literally driving me nuts - i love riding but I'm very lucky it's just a hobby for the love and not my sole form of transportation...
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 18:45 - 17 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look at the charging system, Put a multimeter across the battery when it's revving and see what voltage you get.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 17 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Popping headlamp bulbs is nothing at all to do with the battery or charging system.

Your bike has direct lighting. The headlight and tail light are powered directly from the generator coil when the engine is running.

The brake light, side lights, flashers and instrument lights are powered from the battery.

Your bulbs need to be the correct wattage or chaos and cascade bulb failures will ensue.

So you need a 25/25w headlight bulb and a 21w/5w stop and tail. There should also be a ballast resistor on the bottom yoke behind the little plastic trim. It should have a good contact with earth, the cable running into it is prone to corrosion.

Check the earth for the taillight cluster (usually on the rear mudguards central mounting bolt.

The lighting system for these bikes is very rudimentary and not very good but should be very reliable. If it's not, something is wrong.

Unfortunately, they get messed about with a lot by inept 17 year olds in an attempt to be able to see where you're going using the headlight. You can't. The headlight is to be seen by, not to see with. Accept this and move on with your life.
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eunos20b
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Joined: 15 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 18 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Popping headlamp bulbs is nothing at all to do with the battery or charging system.

Your bike has direct lighting. The headlight and tail light are powered directly from the generator coil when the engine is running.

The brake light, side lights, flashers and instrument lights are powered from the battery.

Your bulbs need to be the correct wattage or chaos and cascade bulb failures will ensue.

So you need a 25/25w headlight bulb and a 21w/5w stop and tail. There should also be a ballast resistor on the bottom yoke behind the little plastic trim. It should have a good contact with earth, the cable running into it is prone to corrosion.

Check the earth for the taillight cluster (usually on the rear mudguards central mounting bolt.

The lighting system for these bikes is very rudimentary and not very good but should be very reliable. If it's not, something is wrong.

Unfortunately, they get messed about with a lot by inept 17 year olds in an attempt to be able to see where you're going using the headlight. You can't. The headlight is to be seen by, not to see with. Accept this and move on with your life.

That's all very useful to know and thanks for the quick reply. I'll be getting on with this today, however - I did see in the manual that there was meant to be a resistor on the front bottom yoke - all I have on the front bottom yoke is the Honda badge with a horn attached and the steering lock... And yes I think it's had the 17 year old tamper. I've been trying to reverse the mess it's in.

Thanks
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eunos20b
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 18 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Look at the charging system, Put a multimeter across the battery when it's revving and see what voltage you get.
Thanks, got one arriving today.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Popping headlamp bulbs is nothing at all to do with the battery or charging system.

Your bike has direct lighting. The headlight and tail light are powered directly from the generator coil when the engine is running.

The brake light, side lights, flashers and instrument lights are powered from the battery.

Your bulbs need to be the correct wattage or chaos and cascade bulb failures will ensue.

So you need a 25/25w headlight bulb and a 21w/5w stop and tail. There should also be a ballast resistor on the bottom yoke behind the little plastic trim. It should have a good contact with earth, the cable running into it is prone to corrosion.

Check the earth for the taillight cluster (usually on the rear mudguards central mounting bolt.

The lighting system for these bikes is very rudimentary and not very good but should be very reliable. If it's not, something is wrong.

Unfortunately, they get messed about with a lot by inept 17 year olds in an attempt to be able to see where you're going using the headlight. You can't. The headlight is to be seen by, not to see with. Accept this and move on with your life.


the later H100s have no ballast resistor and uses a reg/rec abeilt very basic. The lighting is as stinkwheel said is direct lighting. The only thing the battery operates is the brake light, horn and indicators. nothing else. All lighting including the dash is direct ac current.
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eunos20b
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 23:04 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Popping headlamp bulbs is nothing at all to do with the battery or charging system.

Your bike has direct lighting. The headlight and tail light are powered directly from the generator coil when the engine is running.

The brake light, side lights, flashers and instrument lights are powered from the battery.

Your bulbs need to be the correct wattage or chaos and cascade bulb failures will ensue.

So you need a 25/25w headlight bulb and a 21w/5w stop and tail. There should also be a ballast resistor on the bottom yoke behind the little plastic trim. It should have a good contact with earth, the cable running into it is prone to corrosion.

Check the earth for the taillight cluster (usually on the rear mudguards central mounting bolt.

The lighting system for these bikes is very rudimentary and not very good but should be very reliable. If it's not, something is wrong.

Unfortunately, they get messed about with a lot by inept 17 year olds in an attempt to be able to see where you're going using the headlight. You can't. The headlight is to be seen by, not to see with. Accept this and move on with your life.


the later H100s have no ballast resistor and uses a reg/rec abeilt very basic. The lighting is as stinkwheel said is direct lighting. The only thing the battery operates is the brake light, horn and indicators. nothing else. All lighting including the dash is direct ac current.
It's funny how they've left the bolt holes there lol. Your tuned H100 still going cb1??

Since posting, I changed the RegRec (1/4 of the size) and replace all the s****y connectors with new bullet connectors. Was out all weekend in the sun and late evening with no electrical hiccups.

Thanks again all Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

still goes back have had no time of late to play with it Sad
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eunos20b
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

cb1rocket wrote:
still goes back have had no time of late to play with it Sad

Ive read most of the threads, lots of useful info. I might be going down a similar route... all in the name of fun! Lol
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Piercee100
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 07:28 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya,

I own an early H100a with its own electrical gemlins, mostly caused by the direct lighting system. The answer is to always ride with the dipped beam switched on as without this it overcharges the system and starts blowing bulbs although I usually do two or three a year. If the headlight bulb blows, it usually starts blwing others in the system, speedo backlight first then brake / tailight followed by indicators. When at idle the headlight is just a candle glow and the indicators wont flash, but as soon as you start moving then all is good.
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eunos20b
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Piercee100 wrote:
Hiya,

I own an early H100a with its own electrical gemlins, mostly caused by the direct lighting system. The answer is to always ride with the dipped beam switched on as without this it overcharges the system and starts blowing bulbs although I usually do two or three a year. If the headlight bulb blows, it usually starts blwing others in the system, speedo backlight first then brake / tailight followed by indicators. When at idle the headlight is just a candle glow and the indicators wont flash, but as soon as you start moving then all is good.

That does sound logical, thanks, I'll give that a go. Probably slightly safer for me as well (rather than trying to stick with sidelight and higher revs like I have done).

To be fair, when my lights DO work, they're really not as bad as everyone's making them out to be... I might just be used to terrible lights though
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Piercee100 wrote:
Hiya,

I own an early H100a with its own electrical gemlins, mostly caused by the direct lighting system. The answer is to always ride with the dipped beam switched on as without this it overcharges the system and starts blowing bulbs although I usually do two or three a year. If the headlight bulb blows, it usually starts blwing others in the system, speedo backlight first then brake / tailight followed by indicators. When at idle the headlight is just a candle glow and the indicators wont flash, but as soon as you start moving then all is good.


It'll charge the battery at about half the normal rate when the headlamp is on.

I will once again reiterate though, the state of the battery has nothing at all to do with the headlamp, taillight and instrument bulbs. If the headlight is off, the power that would have been going to it goes to the battery instead.

Your riding about with the headlamp on all the time can't be preventing you popping headlamp bulbs. If one goes, the other do tend to go shortly afterwards.

One thing I've never trusted with those systems is the position light/sidelight. That's where the ballast comes in. I never use it, it's either headlights on or off for me with an unregulated direct lighting system.

Of course fitting a £30 AC regulator somewhere in the headlamp circuit would entirely fix the problem of popped bulbs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-BANTAM-D1-D3-D5-D7-6V-AC-REGULATOR-NO-BULB-BLOWING-B701-/360165848699?hash=item53db8eb67b:g:-NgAAOxyjxlTNAmQ
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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eunos20b
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Piercee100 wrote:
Hiya,

I own an early H100a with its own electrical gemlins, mostly caused by the direct lighting system. The answer is to always ride with the dipped beam switched on as without this it overcharges the system and starts blowing bulbs although I usually do two or three a year. If the headlight bulb blows, it usually starts blwing others in the system, speedo backlight first then brake / tailight followed by indicators. When at idle the headlight is just a candle glow and the indicators wont flash, but as soon as you start moving then all is good.


It'll charge the battery at about half the normal rate when the headlamp is on.

I will once again reiterate though, the state of the battery has nothing at all to do with the headlamp, taillight and instrument bulbs. If the headlight is off, the power that would have been going to it goes to the battery instead.

Your riding about with the headlamp on all the time can't be preventing you popping headlamp bulbs. If one goes, the other do tend to go shortly afterwards.

One thing I've never trusted with those systems is the position light/sidelight. That's where the ballast comes in. I never use it, it's either headlights on or off for me with an unregulated direct lighting system.

Of course fitting a £30 AC regulator somewhere in the headlamp circuit would entirely fix the problem of popped bulbs.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-BANTAM-D1-D3-D5-D7-6V-AC-REGULATOR-NO-BULB-BLOWING-B701-/360165848699?hash=item53db8eb67b:g:-NgAAOxyjxlTNAmQ

I'll keep that in mind. She's cooperating at the moment and gone in for MOT!
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Petemate
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 11:23 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

All very interesting, and my heart goes out to all with similar systems. I do accept that if they are all as per manufacturers' specs, there should be no problems.
Years ago I had a 1972 CB125S, great little bike, owned by me for about 3 years, bought new, which I used mainly for commuting 3 miles to and from work. I never in all that 3 years experienced any electrical problems whatever, at the time of trading it in it still had all the original bulbs in and working. Memory fade means I can't recall what system it had, not even the voltage lol. The only problem I had was after a couple of years it shat some teeth on one of the 4th gear wheels. I replaced only the bad gear (I know, silly but no ill after effects)
I digress. My current bike has an abysmal headlight of 35/35. I intend to replace this with one of my stocks of 60/55. I have checked the charge rate with dip on and pass button pressed to simulate the higher wattage demand, and the charge rate at 3000 rpm is about 13.6 and rises with higher revs. The bike specs show the alternator has a 190 watt output. Hopefully it will all be OK but we will see.
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cb1rocket
World Chat Champion



Joined: 30 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petemate wrote:
All very interesting, and my heart goes out to all with similar systems. I do accept that if they are all as per manufacturers' specs, there should be no problems.
Years ago I had a 1972 CB125S, great little bike, owned by me for about 3 years, bought new, which I used mainly for commuting 3 miles to and from work. I never in all that 3 years experienced any electrical problems whatever, at the time of trading it in it still had all the original bulbs in and working. Memory fade means I can't recall what system it had, not even the voltage lol. The only problem I had was after a couple of years it shat some teeth on one of the 4th gear wheels. I replaced only the bad gear (I know, silly but no ill after effects)
I digress. My current bike has an abysmal headlight of 35/35. I intend to replace this with one of my stocks of 60/55. I have checked the charge rate with dip on and pass button pressed to simulate the higher wattage demand, and the charge rate at 3000 rpm is about 13.6 and rises with higher revs. The bike specs show the alternator has a 190 watt output. Hopefully it will all be OK but we will see.


what's worse for the H100 is the circuit system is all powered at 6v!
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petemate wrote:

I digress. My current bike has an abysmal headlight of 35/35. I intend to replace this with one of my stocks of 60/55. I have checked the charge rate with dip on and pass button pressed to simulate the higher wattage demand, and the charge rate at 3000 rpm is about 13.6 and rises with higher revs. The bike specs show the alternator has a 190 watt output. Hopefully it will all be OK but we will see.


I confidently predict it will be dimmer than the standard one. But nothing lost, it wont pop it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Petemate
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 13:50 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


I confidently predict it will be dimmer than the standard one. But nothing lost, it wont pop it.


Oh. MMMmmm. Well, I'm basing my assumptions on the fact that the system on my bike is more 'normal', ie proper charging circuit, and all the services run on DC. We'll see, and I promise reports.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 14:04 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

What type of bulb is it? You can get get more efficient bulbs now. LED Halogen etc.

I have replaced my RXS headlight with a Halogen one and it was much bright with out using more power. I also replaced my Indicators with LED's to free up more watts. I feel like working on the lighting of a 6v bike is like a shit Apollo 13. Laughing
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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eunos20b
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 15 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
What type of bulb is it? You can get get more efficient bulbs now. LED Halogen etc.

I have replaced my RXS headlight with a Halogen one and it was much bright with out using more power. I also replaced my Indicators with LED's to free up more watts. I feel like working on the lighting of a 6v bike is like a shit Apollo 13. Laughing
I was under the impression you couldn't use LEDs and such fancy lighting on a 6v bike... Thats good news to me for the future. Cool.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 15:08 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

eunos20b wrote:
chris-red wrote:
What type of bulb is it? You can get get more efficient bulbs now. LED Halogen etc.

I have replaced my RXS headlight with a Halogen one and it was much bright with out using more power. I also replaced my Indicators with LED's to free up more watts. I feel like working on the lighting of a 6v bike is like a shit Apollo 13. Laughing
I was under the impression you couldn't use LEDs and such fancy lighting on a 6v bike... Thats good news to me for the future. Cool.


As long as you get 6v LEDs it's fine. You'll need a 6v led flasher unit for the Indicators too. I bought the Indicators leds and the Flasher unit for Less than £5 from China.

Here's a video of my LED Setup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF9lMf8RTvQ

I wouldn't be the surprised if your H100 uses the same fitment, bulbs/flasher.

This is what I bought.

2x bulbs
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361872948268?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Flasher
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232072650584?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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eunos20b
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 15:45 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's pukka. Cheap upgrade too! At work, but I'd like to see if there's any of those tiny LED indicators with 6v. Like the little bullet ones. I've got the big originals square originals and once they've been off the bike long enough you realise how big they are and how small they could be whilst providing the same purpose.
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