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| bobsyeruncle |
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bobsyeruncle
L Plate Warrior
Joined: 20 Feb 2017
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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 Posted: 19:59 - 20 Feb 2017  Post subject: |
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Silly questions first:
1/ did you buy it mail order?
2/ did you check it was a 'sealed' battery, or came pre-filled or came with acid packs to fill it?
3/ depending on answer to above... has it now got acid in it?
4/ Did you charge it before fitting?
Oft advertised as 'Dry charged' if they come without acid in.. you still need to add acid... and the 'dry charge' is 'only' really enough to 'maybe' do a first start, if you are lucky, but always best to fill, let settle, charge, check level, top if necessery, put back on charge... generally I'll do a new battery over night, filling, charging, checking, leaving on trickle till morning.
Are you sure its a 140Ah battery? That WOULD be pretty big... one for my Range Rover is only 70Ah.....
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| bobsyeruncle |
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bobsyeruncle
L Plate Warrior
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| Posted: 20:02 - 20 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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| Teflon-Mike wrote: | Silly questions first:
1/ did you buy it mail order?
2/ did you check it was a 'sealed' battery, or came pre-filled or came with acid packs to fill it?
3/ depending on answer to above... has it now got acid in it?
4/ Did you charge it before fitting?
Oft advertised as 'Dry charged' if they come without acid in.. you still need to add acid... and the 'dry charge' is 'only' really enough to 'maybe' do a first start, if you are lucky, but always best to fill, let settle, charge, check level, top if necessery, put back on charge... generally I'll do a new battery over night, filling, charging, checking, leaving on trickle till morning.
Are you sure its a 140Ah battery? That WOULD be pretty big... one for my Range Rover is only 70Ah..... |
i bought in the store locally,
it is a sealed battery,
it was charged in the shop. |
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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| Posted: 20:47 - 20 Feb 2017 Post subject: |
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Oh Kay.. if we assume battery good....
Indicators and no warning lamps.... do you have an alarm or imobiliser on it?
On which notion... what year of CB500 is it.. model designation covers a host of them, from 1960's air cooled twins to '70's air cooled fours, up to the 90's water cooled twins and the latest injected ones....
MAY offer notion why battery doesn't fit... has shop picked the battery for an earlier/later variant of CB5?
Believe latest gen of CB5 have an integrated Honda security system.. likely that if battery goes flat, system has to be reset by code key.
after market security systems.. functions vary, but likewise could need a code reset after flattery. either case check owners book for bike or alarm
Worth checking battery polarity, and main fuse, as well, the obviouse simple stuff first.. but sounds most like a security system 'thing'.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Daz1245 |
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Daz1245
Renault 5 Driver
Joined: 17 Dec 2016
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| Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr
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| Posted: 05:09 - 21 Feb 2017 Post subject: Re: starter problems, new battery, not starting |
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Hold a thought
| bobsyeruncle wrote: | indicator lights come on permanently |
You do you mean the DIRECTION indicator lamps, the amber ones on the corners that are supposed to flash... don't you? that would suggest security system / alarm issue.
Not the 'tell-tale' or instrument lamps on the dash panel, for low oil pressure, no alternator output, neutral gear selection etc?
If they light but no action at the engine on the button, then points to a sticky starter and or possible burned out relay.
Note: as starter motors start to get tired, carbon dust from the brushes builds up, and shorts accross contacts so more windings that should can draw current from the battery; this can overload the solenoid and the battery, whilst the extra windings taking current will likely make magnetic field that hinders more than it helps.. so you get double whammy that the starter sucks extra current through the added windings, robbing power from the ones that really want it, so they cant pull thier own weight as well, whilst at the same time the errant windings are working against them, and the motor starts taking a lot more power than it delivers, and struggles to spin over the engine.
As the starter 'drops off', old age starts to tell in the bearings and cogs too, so it is more hit and miss whether it will engage, as well as loosing efficiency and possibly getting noisy in worn bearings or gears.
Fitting a new battery, giving it a few extra volts and more amps to suck, will oft solve the 'symptom' and bike will start starting easier.. but knackered starter remains, and is just getting worse.... and whilst its about it, it will be sucking more amps for longer hammering battery, so that wont last as long, and likely stressing the solenoid.... Which will usually result in a cycle of ever decreasing circles as when starting gets hard next time, same solution, fitting a new battery, that 'seemed' to fix it, is repeated.. the last new battery blamed.. and the cycle repeated, on a shorter spin, till next new battery is killed and or the solenoid gives up the ghost.
Depending on starter, it's possible it might be reconditioned for maybe a tenner, with new brushes and a bit cleaning and new grease. If so, then worth the doing to make 'good' and nub potential root cause.
Solenoids can be more problematic; on older hondas some are rather 'nice' bits of electro-mech engineering, constructed like the forth bridge! And can be stripped, the thick brass contact plates cleaned to remove pits and corrosion, cleaned out and greased to be good for another twenty years.... newer ones are less 'nice', made of molded plastic incorporating the main fuse, and supply terminals, and are essentially sealed for life disposeable, so only option is to cough up for a new one... and gen Honda items can be a bit eye watering! BUT cheaper than killing batteries in quarter time or less!
BUT.. bad earths are probably the most common fault.. and on old bike, corrosion between starter and engine and bad earth strap between engine and frame, and or corroded engine mounting bolt where earth strap attatches...
AFTER the 'dum' of fiddly terminal screws.... and a cross threaded captive nut, or un-captive captive nut, and one or other of the battery leads, just NOT actually making enough contact to carry the high amps for the starter, but 'enough' to carry the much more moderate amps for tell-tales and possibly even some equipment.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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