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How often do you change your oil?

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asta1
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: How often do you change your oil? Reply with quote

Evening all,

I have been toying with the idea of changing the oil in my MT-07 for the last few weeks as it is now roughly half way between service intervals.

I suspect this is more for my own peace of mind than any mechanical need, but how often do you all change out the oil in your bikes?

Cheers,
A.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

in the spring time ..
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Bloggsy
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was keen and did my own maintenance my oil was changed every 6 months, now my oil is changed once a year when my dealer services it, as I'm to lazy to do it. If you want to change your oil for your peace of mind, then do it and the filter as well
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my Beta, every 4 to 8 hours Laughing

err, generally twice as often as the service intervals on my road bikes
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asta1
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting. I might swap it out then. I haven't done it before so it's a useful thing to know how to do and it won't harm the bike either way.

The manual seems pretty compehensive, but any tips, beyond the obvious get the stuff warm before trying to drain it?

Cheers!
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

asta1 wrote:
Interesting. I might swap it out then. I haven't done it before so it's a useful thing to know how to do and it won't harm the bike either way.

The manual seems pretty compehensive, but any tips, beyond the obvious get the stuff warm before trying to drain it?

Cheers!
Remove the filler cap before you remove the sump plug.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy crush washers..chances are you can re-use the old one but sods law can come into effect.

Rubber gloves. (or borrow some from a petrol station).
Bike on level ground.

Wrap a dry rag around the old filter and use brute strength (Have an old large Philips screwdriver and a hammer should you be lacking in brute).

Look for metal filings in the old washing bowl you're using.
Magnetic sump plug for next time. Surprising how they do collect metallic sludge and the odd stray bit of swarf.

2 funnels. 1 for aiding in refilling the other for draining old oil from washing up bowl into old container.
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bamt
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PostPosted: 21:16 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the sump plug is on the bottom of the bike, use a ratchet to undo it as it is really easy to get it wrong and tighten rather than loosen as you are looking at it backwards to normal. If you've set the ratchet to undo bolts before you put it on the sump plug you won't get that wrong.

And don't overtighten the plug when you put it back in - especially if it is a magnetic one.
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

what they said ^^

I wrecked a KMX 125 by overtightening

my friend re-threaded it for me, for some cider, it was a close call, could have wrecked my bike
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding sealing washers, buy an M12 dowty (bonded seal) washer to replace the crush washer on the sump bolt.

I have no idea why we still fuck about with crushable copper and aluminium sealing washers. Bonded seal ones have been about for at least 70 years, are reusable, do not leak and reliably seal when nipped up tight. The don't need ramsheeing down to make a seal.
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asta1
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good stuff! A few things I wouldn't have thought of there. I'm lucky in that I invested in a torque wrench and the recommended setting is provided in t'instructions. Any pointers for sourcing magnetic sump plugs? Who makes decent ones?

Cheers guys, will let you know how it goes!

Need to source a new filter first.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

asta1 wrote:
Good stuff! A few things I wouldn't have thought of there. I'm lucky in that I invested in a torque wrench and the recommended setting is provided in t'instructions.


I bet more threads have been stripped with a torque wrench than any other tool.

Remember it is not a substitute for user input and common sense. If it feels tight enough. Stop.

Check for the click with the wrench set and the end in a vice or big adjustable spanner before you trust it with your bike.
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G
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember the torque settings is for with a fresh copper washer.

If you buy cheap crappy sump bolts, they may snap. That's the common factor, not being magnetic or not, I'd suggest.

Or, of course, possibly not using a torque wrench - though typically the sump will go way before the fastener unless you've gone for some ultra-light tarty cheese-based one.
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

always used to anneal copper washers to re-use them - heat it cherry red with a blow torch then quench it in water. The copper goes nice and soft.

Used to do the same thing with copper head gaskets. Is that not the done thing any more?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:32 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I bet more threads have been stripped with a torque wrench than any other tool.


And even worse, there's even a video on the youbook, where someone uses the torque wrench (an English lady, couldn't figure out what Nm is, so instead of let's say 20Nm she put there 20 ft-lb) and was talking about wating for the click. Then she heard the click, which was the top/head of the bolt snapping off. Laughing

I actually have a calibrated torque wrench and hand tight is often way more than it is required for your sump plug. My car requires 25Nm and the ZX7R was 20Nm, which is nothing, in terms of what an avg. male can put onto the bolt with a standard length ratchet wrench.
And to give you the opposite example, there are jobs where you have to put a vast amouts of torque onto your bolts and won't put enough there. For instance, the bolts holding the engine head of an avg. car. You put there crap loads of torque with the torque wrench, and then you have to make a 180° or even one full turn of the bolts in the head which requires a very long (more than 100cm) lever to accomplish. All being done by the service manual.

Now, if you don't have a proper torque wrench and you are an avg. male (sorry ladies but we man do tend to have stronger hand grip and arm muscles), then use the smaller wrench you have. This is something a friend of mine told me, when I started fixing my motorcycles, cars and other machinery. I haven't stripped a thread in 5 years now. Knowing the materials you work with also helps.

Torque = force (N) times the length of the lever (m) = Nm
Meaning, short lever (wrench) = safe.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 20 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fazer. wrote:
Avoid magnetic sump plugs they are shit and will likely snap.


I don't do this quite often, but I must agree with Alison there. Thumbs Up
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I bet more threads have been stripped with a torque wrench than any other tool.

Remember it is not a substitute for user input and common sense. If it feels tight enough. Stop.

But how is someone without experience supposed to know? You'd have to have either stripped a thread before and be able to recall how much force you'd applied, or erred too far on the side of caution and had a sump plug leak. Neither can be recommended. Why guess when you've got a tool made for the job?
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NJD
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
But how is someone without experience supposed to know? You'd have to have either stripped a thread before and be able to recall how much force you'd applied, or erred too far on the side of caution and had a sump plug leak. Neither can be recommended. Why guess when you've got a tool made for the job?


If this someone, with limited experience, cannot tell when a bolt is tight and therefore needs to snap, whatever that entails, the thread to realise they've gone to far then a torque wrench is defiantly not for them.

Torque wrenches are overrated. You could get lost in a world of trying to get the torque setting to the exact number in the manual. I did my first mechanical task in the basic clean of both my front and rear brakes on the big-un and tightened the bolts with a 1/4 ratchet from Aldi and haven't died.

Use common sense and you can't go far wrong. No substitute for the feel through a wrench or spanner IMO.

If in doubt take it in and pay the half n hour labour because cost of that is far less than a new sump or engine or repair, simples.
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G
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PostPosted: 00:30 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
You could get lost in a world of trying to get the torque setting to the exact number in the manual.

While for the most part I don't bother, it's not like doing so does actually take THAT much more time if you're so inclined.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
While for the most part I don't bother, it's not like doing so does actually take THAT much more time if you're so inclined.


I meant paying over importance, as a mechanical newbie, to getting the torque setting of everything that has one in the manual to what it says as opposed to time savings. Mechanical sympathy gets my vote. Whatever method suits the person performing the task I guess.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 01:29 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was a newbie my concern was not whether I was about to snap a bolt but rather, is that tight enough or will it come loose. Without someone to demonstrate I'd say a torque wrench is a good education. Yes, I probably have gained the mystical "common sense" after using one and could perhaps do without now, but I still use torque wrenches.

Edit/PS/back on topic: "service interval" by definition equals an oil change (or "swap-it-out" if you're a Yank). No need for greater frequency in my opinion, but no harm either I suppose.
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iansoady
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 21 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Baggyman wrote:
always used to anneal copper washers to re-use them - heat it cherry red with a blow torch then quench it in water. The copper goes nice and soft.

Used to do the same thing with copper head gaskets. Is that not the done thing any more?


It is with me. You don't have to quench it but that does get rid of any scale (and of course saves you burning your fingers).
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