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DAS and Bike Advice

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tootallpaul67
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 06 Mar 2017
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: DAS and Bike Advice Reply with quote

Morning all...

Long time lurker, first time poster.

First question:

I've been riding since passing my CBT last June, and been loving it. I'm quite a confident rider and I've been driving for a (long) long time, so I am road aware.

How much training do I need to get through my DAS? Or is that something only a trainer can tell me?

Second question:

I have seen a 1997 Suzuki Bandit 600 going at my friendly neighborhood garage - an incredible 2000 miles on the clock, and in immaculate condition, and an extremely good price.

What's the thought on this as a first bike?

Cheers all!

Paul
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Holdawayt
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Without seeing how you ride it's a bit hard to say how much training you'll need.
I've seen people who have ridden on a cbt for 2 years without any lessons rock up for a test and fail miserably because they're far worse than they think they are.

Go to a bike school, show them what you can do, don't be surprised when they tell you that you're a dangerous mong who should've come to them a year ago.

Bandits are fine for a first bike, it's what I passed my test on. Bit boring once you get used to the power - I'd recommend a hornet 600 over the bandit.
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Re: DAS and Bike Advice Reply with quote

tootallpaul67 wrote:

How much training do I need to get through my DAS? Or is that something only a trainer can tell me?


I was in a similar situation. I had about 3 days training all told for both modules. But your mileage may vary!

tootallpaul67 wrote:

I have seen a 1997 Suzuki Bandit 600 going at my friendly neighborhood garage - an incredible 2000 miles on the clock, and in immaculate condition, and an extremely good price.
What's the thought on this as a first bike?


Bandit? Great first bike - but I'm biased.

Bear in mind though that even if it's only done 2000 miles it's still a pile of 20 year old components. And if it hasn't been used much, well, who knows what could be / go wrong with it.

And define "extremely good price" Very Happy
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Paul,

First thing you'll want to do is to get a motorcycle theory test booked: https://www.gov.uk/book-theory-test

Then it's off to your chosen training school or individual instructor for an assessment. That's the only real answer, I'm afraid, it's impossible to judge, and their estimate will only be an informed guess anyway.

I'd take some care over choosing, rather than going for the nearest - check out prices and the actual instructors to ensure that you don't get some shouty tefloon.

One way to demonstrate your basic level of competence would be to book and sit module 1 yourself on your own 125. It doesn't get you any closer to a full licence, but it only costs £15.50 and it's the cheapest way to practice it and get rid of any test nerves. Doing it on a 125 is at least as hard if not harder than on a 600.


That Bandit still has 20 years of decay on it even if it's not been ridden. The tyres could be rotted, the chain solid and allah knows how old the oil and coolant is.

When you come to sell it, you may have the lowest mileage one up for sale, but... it's still a 20+ year old Bandit. People in the market for 20+ year old Bandits are after a bargain, not a show bike, so I wouldn't go wild on it - it's a ~£1K bike.
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arry
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty much as said above.

How long's a bit of string in respect of how much training. Just depends.

The Bandit isn't a bad first bike (but it's heavy and as already said, old and was always a budget bike anyway) but you may find you just don't like it. Not everyone gets on with the same sort of bikes.
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Azoth
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Joined: 07 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bike was bought in the Bandit's heyday, when they were one of the most popular big bikes on the market in the UK. It probably had the same owner since then, until either he (perhaps with a bit of a cashflow problem) or his estate sold it on to the dealership. Why did he buy and not ride it? Pure speculation, but seeing the popularity of that bike everywhere at the time, with everyone seeming to buy them and make the same mods to them (twin dominator headlights, tank pad, Renthal bars, stubby exhaust, mirrors), he may have figured that it would have a resurgence in popularity as a classic bike when that generation had all retired. In other words, as a long-term, high-return investment. Such an investor would have done his best to keep it responsibly in dry storage. However, that's just being optimistic. What if it had been bought by some guy who intended to ride it, then had a scare and left it in his garage for 2 decades? That would mean the bike's shiny but really hiding lots of problems from disuse, cracking rubber and plastic parts, and old fluids. What if some noob bought it from someone who hardly rode it at all, then discovered some fault he was unable to fix, and so left it languishing in a garage?

Is this a good bike to ride away right now? It could be, but it depends how it was stored and what was done to it in all that time. That information is unavailable to us. If you buy it, you may wish to take some steps to be on the safe side. You may get away without doing this - who knows. However, a bike might shine yet be lousy and full of holes. You should consider ripping out and replacing all the hoses and rubber seals for both the fuel system and the cooling system, buy a fuel tap kit in case (when?) it starts leaking, dump and replace all fluids, clean out the tank, replace perishables (seals, bearings, chain and tyres). Fuel hoses crack after drying out, and they do it spectacularly, suddenly and dangerously, i.e. when you're riding along, everything may seem fine, then suddenly you smell petrol and you're a rolling bomb, with it gushing underneath you. Water cooling system cracked hoses are tiny but let air in imperceptibly, causing airlock problems you'll find very hard to pin down, etc. Why change tyres that have only done 2000 miles? They could look absolutely great but be as solid as hard plastic by now if they are the originals. Besides, they are likely to be some obsolete brand. All of that would just be preventative work. On the whole it's better to buy a bike that's been ridden.
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davethekwak
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which bike you get at this stage is not something to fret over unless you went crazy powerful. You are likely to change it in 12 months or less so think of it as something to get experience on while you decide what bike you really want. Then you start collecting them.
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tootallpaul67
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all- I shall go along to my preferred training peeps, and see if they will offer an assessment...

As for the bike- it is being sold by a garage whom I trust, and has been serviced by them. Fluids have all been replaced, as has chain/sprocket. As for tyres I didn't check, but will do if I go take another look. There will be a warranty as well. I am unsure myself, but I do like the bike.

Cheers all!

Paul
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

tootallpaul67 wrote:
it is being sold by a garage whom I trust

Well, for now. Whistle

How cheap are we talking? Got an advert? You're not likely to get gazumped by sharing it.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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pinkyfloyd
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a theory and current CBT cert then a standard typical DAS course is 3 days.
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arry
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:

Well, for now. Whistle


Be just a few moments after that warranty is needed then that'll change.
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Azoth
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 06 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Be just a few moments after that warranty is needed then that'll change.


New account creation, and someone 'else' asking in the Workshop asking about issues with, 'coincidentally', a Bandit, soon enough, I bet.
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tootallpaul67
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 09 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh boy- a lot of cynical folk on here. Laughing

The bike isn't advertised anywhere- its a small local garage I have been using for the past two years to service both my wifes bikes and mine.

I may be naive, but I trust them. They have never done me wrong, always charged a fair price (a low one as well) and I have no reason not to take them at their word.

We bought my wifes bike from from them and they have given us sterling service.

Anyway - comments have been taken on board- as everyone has said, even though its only done 2000 miles it is still a 20 year old machine, and should be treated with caution...
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 09 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

This must be one of those dealers that doesn't like the hassle of actually selling bikes, if it's not got any online presence.

It might be fine, but you can't judge a bike by whether the dealer makes you cups of tea. I'd want to give it a good check, and I don't just mean the paintwork.

I'm also wondering what an "extremely good price" means to you.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Baffler186
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 10 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

tootallpaul67 wrote:
Oh boy- a lot of cynical folk on here
Not cynical, realistic. It's not so bad paying over the odds for a good bike, but when you pay over the odds for a bike that needs money throwing at it every month, that's a real shitter and will ruin your first big bike experience. Trust me, I know
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 10 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having a motorbike before you have a licence to ride it is a bit frustrating.
It's like being gasping for a fag, having a pack of cigarettes in your pocket and no matches.

20 year old Bandit 6? Few will fetch much more than a grand. Most will be money pits for one reason or another, usually a succession of newby owners with more optimism & enthusiasm than nouse....

It was one of the most popular bikes on the road, in its day; mostly because it was cheap. Suzuki discovered folk weren't buying 'expensive' GSXR's because they were too expensive to but, too expensive to rn, and far too expensive to fix, as well as rather single mnded as a sports bike. Bandit was a 'old hat' design; an all-rounder, hence more practical daily rider, that with a lot of cost cutting measures could sell in the show room for a very competitive price against 2nd hand bikes of similar style.. and come with a warranty.

Cheap new, cheap now, I would take a good long reality check on just how realistic your idea of 'a good price' may be.

As for the training.... you have some time on a tiddler, and car licence...

Don't expect either to give you much of a head start going for tests.

Car drivers sufer a lot of car driver habbts that are hard to break. Long term tiddlers, who haven't had any correctve training since CBT, similarly usually have a lot of engrained bad habbits, many specific to little bikes; and stepping 'up' to a AS bike can stlll take some gettng used to, whilst even more habbts to break along the way.

Yup, you probably have some road know how, and you probably have some savvy about bike road positioning... BUT you probably have as many cons a plusses, dont bank on anything, keep an open mind.

How uch traiing you 'need' is mute... legally you dont need any... you ould, and its possbly not a bad idea, go self ook tests for A1 on your tiddler, and see how you get on.... £15 for a MOD1 is probably cheaper than trying it learn it on a playground on a course. Mod 2 at £75 as a dry run, will show yo whats expected of you, and tell you how far off test standard you are, and IF you tur up to training with a full A1 in your pocket, then school shouldn't have to go through the grnder teaching you to suck eggs, just get you up to speed ad comfy on a bigger bike. Though STILL you dont need traing, you can self bok A tests and provided you can legally get an A bike to the test centre and make t legal to ride on test, do tests on t. They are the exact same tests, only dfference is bike you do it on.

So, hint is lessons is for life, NOT licences.

You dont have to do any lessons to get a licence; poit of them is to teach you stuff, and if you tur up thinking because you have been dong it umpety years n a car, and for a year on L-Plates o a tiddler, so you muct know it all already you ARE NOT goig to be open to get that learning..... and the licence you might hope to get at the ed, wll be less likely too.

Point of lessons aught to be to learn, and get craft in your head; not a bit of paper in your pocket..... so doing it 'just' for the licence is something of a waste of time ad money as well as possble life saving learning.... tryig to keep the amount of training 'thin' to keep costs down, is then similar falce eccoomics n false ecconomics.... you are ignorng what you aught be dong training for..... so why bother? Self book and get the licence the cheap way... OR more attitude adjustment; do the training for the learning, and if you need more trainng, then there's stuf you still need to learn, so its worth it.

Think about t; bikes come and go; gear wears out; t all degrades and devalues the more you use it. A crash hat s good for one crash.. learning s for life, and gets better the more yo use it, and likely saves the one crash a hat may be good for.... whch is more valuable; a £300 crash hat that mght save you same pai in one off, or £300's worth of trainig that helps you avoid that off, and a hundred others?

Recalibrate perceptions.

Bike dont matter till you have a licence.
Training is for life not licences
Pre-Knowledge can be as bad or worse then no knowledge if you aren't open to learnng or thnk you already know it.

Get your ducks in a row... start with the theory test... ponder suggestion of self booked A1 tests as a dry run, then training for the learning, not the licence... but when one leads t'other and you have the licence, THEN what 'next' bike, might be worth fretting about.
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arry
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 10 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You got Teffed.
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tootallpaul67
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 13 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did didn't I.

Embarassed
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