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Can't drill into stud

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Arcane1729 This post is not being displayed because it has a low rating (Spam). Unhide this post / all posts.
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GT200Fan79
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

What engine is it?
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jnw010
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arcane1729 wrote:
kramdra wrote:
...


I've been told by the guys who know their stuff at the specialist that Rocol is the best cutting fluid- I bought the paste kind cos that was the only thing in stock. Is that as equally good like the oil kind?


The Rocol cutting compound is definitely good enough. I'd go so far as to say it's better than you need. My understanding of Rocol stuff is that it's industrial quality, as in expected to prolong the life of expensive tooling that is in constant use, which is bit overkill for diy grade tooling occasionally used. It's also considerably more expensive.

tl:dr
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Normally some sort of guide jig is made for car engines so the drill bit can be accurately centred and driven steadily - especially if doing it in situ with a 90 degree drill.

You have the engine out, but I would still knock up a jig if you don't have a drill press and insist on doing it with a cordless drill.

I'd post the photo so we can help. Remember what happened last time you went all freestyle jazz mechanic?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arcane1729 wrote:

No they dont. It's a stud. Made of hardened steel.


Is it bollocks, they never are. Just because YOU can't drill it doesn't mean it's hardened.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be fair, some previous owner of Mystery Engine could have replaced the studs with stainless, because harderer is betterer, right?
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Arcane1729
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Arcane1729 wrote:

No they dont. It's a stud. Made of hardened steel.


Is it bollocks, they never are. Just because YOU can't drill it doesn't mean it's hardened.


The drill and the bits do most of the work- all I'm doing is pointing it in- there's no way I can be much of a factor- it's got to be the bits I'm sorry and the material of the stud.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tjhs-0kFl8
At 5:20 of the video he's not even pointing it dead straight or using any skill or anything- it's all over the place yet it's slicing through like a knife through butter... that's what I want.
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Last edited by Arcane1729 on 23:04 - 20 Mar 2017; edited 1 time in total
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vice
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PostPosted: 22:58 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

your bits are not hard enough for that stud
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A100man
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Arcane1729 wrote:

No they dont. It's a stud. Made of hardened steel.


Is it bollocks, they never are. Just because YOU can't drill it doesn't mean it's hardened.


Quite so..

Incidentally I once bought a couple of De Walt extreme bits for stud drilling purpose and they worked well. Lovely curls of continuous swarf - Are you sure you've got your drill running clockwise OP?

Ragging the chaps on here, whilst most entertaining, isn't helping you much is it? Strongly suggest you comply with requests and work with them.

Pip pip.
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Lee Wright
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You really need to put a picture up of what you're trying to do here, there are so many more factors than you realise that will affect the outcome of this job.

Also for entertainment value take a picture of the tips of the drill bits you've been using...
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 20 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arcane1729 wrote:
I've been told by the guys who know their stuff at the specialist that Rocol is the best cutting fluid- I bought the paste kind cos that was the only thing in stock. Is that as equally good like the oil kind?


No. You do not need cutting fluid, if the drill is sharp and correct pressure, it will make decent sized chips which will keep the heat out of the drill. Drills only get too hot if they are rubbing. A light oil/wd40 is enough.

This is relevant when you are using the 5mm+ bits to get final size in your stud, watch 4 to 6minutes
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhpOg186fks&t=240
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jnw010
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

No. You do not need cutting fluid, if the drill is sharp and correct pressure, it will make decent sized chips which will keep the heat out of the drill. Drills only get too hot if they are rubbing. A light oil/wd40 is enough.


OP is a total novice and is almost certainly applying as much pressure as possible. A cheap can of cutting fluid can only help. The fact that he bought the most expensive cutting paste available is somewhat wasteful, but it will at least help him drill the hole.
To be clear, I am in total agreement with you, but OP is a special case.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

GT200Fan79 wrote:
What engine is it?
I think we are meant to assume it is a revolutionary, top secret R&D project... or a 125. Side valve, probably.
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
GT200Fan79 wrote:
What engine is it?
I think we are meant to assume it is a revolutionary, top secret R&D project... or a 125. Side valve, probably.


looks like the engine out of a kymco super 8 - I saw it through his window cos i know where he lives
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
but OP is a special case.

That is probably the least contentious. most undisputable statement in this entire thread.
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Arcane1729
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PostPosted: 00:37 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:

Incidentally I once bought a couple of De Walt extreme bits for stud drilling purpose and they worked well. Lovely curls of continuous swarf - Are you sure you've got your drill running clockwise OP?


This comment is really discouraging me along with the fact that people in other places on the internet also said they had no problem drilling into the stud saying it was a soft cheap chinese stud. Nobody mentioned the material of the bits so that can't be that important. This is telling me there probably is something I'm doing wrong- but we'll try the cobalt and the fluid and see.
does cheap v expensive drill make a difference?

I've tried nothing but a 3mm drillbit and tried to drill all the way down. I don't want to increase the size- I just want a 3mm hole in m8 sized bolt stud- do I have no choice but to keep increasing the size of bit? or is making a 3mm hole still ok?
Edit:
I've wondered why does an m8 broken bolt need a specific larger size screw extractor- why can't you just make a small 3mm drillbit hole and then use the smaller extractor which matches the 3mm drill- is it because there is too much metal to displace with only a small 3mm bit- so you cant make a deep 3mm hole in a large diameter bolt?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just post a picture of this mystery engine and stud.

If they're normal mild steel, then a normal HSS drill bit will do it. If they're stainless, then you'll probably need cobalt bits. Cutting fluid helps.

I'm quite concerned that you're trying to dig yourself out of your credit card black hole by fixing other people's bikes in exchange for money. You have neither the skills nor the attitude to do this. When the owner of the bike ends up killed or seriously injured, you get to spend some time reflecting on your mistakes in prison - where you will get abused in creative ways.

A lot of people on this forum know a lot about fixing bikes, and will fix their friends bikes, but will only accept beer as payment. This is because they know enough about their skills to also understand their limitations. You need to start recognising your limitations. You've spent enough on tools in the last month to pay for a few years of servicing by a shop.
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Arcane1729
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PostPosted: 01:33 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's my own and it was just for recreation.
Yeah thanks all for all the help- I think all the advice up to now should be totally sufficient whether it works or not tomorrow. If it doesn't I'll figure it out somehow.
cheers
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Last edited by Arcane1729 on 01:44 - 21 Mar 2017; edited 1 time in total
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Fazer Tom
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PostPosted: 01:42 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thread has given me aids
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Arcane1729
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PostPosted: 01:52 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fazer Tom wrote:
This thread has given me aids


yeah- it's a quite cringey i guess- sorry about that. I'd much rather be posting about bigger worthier engine issues but I'm at the sad level I'm at- what can you do...
I'm less than 1 years old.
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Last edited by Arcane1729 on 01:53 - 21 Mar 2017; edited 1 time in total
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 01:53 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arcane1729 wrote:
I've wondered why does an m8 broken bolt need a specific larger size screw extractor- why can't you just make a small 3mm drillbit hole and then use the smaller extractor which matches the 3mm drill- is it because there is too much metal to displace with only a small 3mm bit- so you cant make a deep 3mm hole in a large diameter bolt?


Extractors are generally rubbish and a small one wont have enough torques to shift a stuck 8mm bolt, consider there was enough force to break an 8mm stud, so a weak 3mm wont have a chance.
However once you have a full depth pilot, which is on centre and within 2 degrees, enlargening it is piss, assuming one does not eat through the stud into the parent metal, which is softer. When this happens you will never get it back on centre.

Practise on scrap first.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 02:03 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really cant understand why someone would be so reluctant to
show the engine they're working on.

I've found that forum advice, whatever the subject tends to have a
golden rule:
'The more/better info given, the better the advice received'
Withholding info makes folk lose interest at best
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Arcane1729
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PostPosted: 02:09 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I really cant understand why someone would be so reluctant to
show the engine they're working on.

I've found that forum advice, whatever the subject tends to have a
golden rule:
'The more/better info given, the better the advice received'
Withholding info makes folk lose interest at best


Because you'll laugh at me. And it's ok, the thread can die now.
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 06:13 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arcane1729 wrote:

Because you'll laugh at me. And it's ok, the thread can die now.


Exact opposite. Nobody will laugh. Learning on something cheap/free/scrap is the smartest thing to do. Take it apart. Understand it. Put it back together. Think. Ask. Learn.
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