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Is there a simple way to test the Ignition Coil?

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RickTaff
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 16 Apr 2017    Post subject: Is there a simple way to test the Ignition Coil? Reply with quote

I think my coil may be on the way out as my bike struggles to start even when warm, and cuts out after engine is warmed up; also seems to misfire when riding. Resulting in a stutter, hesitation.

Have changed Spark Plug, cleaned carb. But have been advised my symptoms are also those of a failing coil, so is there a simple way to test the coil?

Wont have a Multi meter until middle of week, as mine is broke so need to borrow one, have been told of some test which involves removing the spark plug cap from the plug, inserting a screwdriver into spark plug cap and holding near engine block to see if there is some sort of spark while hitting the electric start... seems a bit dangerous to me.

Any advice massively appreciated, cheers.
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 16 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leave the plug in the cap, and hold the plug against the engine using gloves or insulated pliers. Darken the area if possible, then crank. You should see a strong blue spark across the plug gap.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 16 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

That is the normal way to do a quick test. Although you can just stuff a plug in it and hold the plug against the engine while you do it.

But that won't tell you how healthy it is. The manual will have a range of values for resistance of the coil, and it might work while outside those ranges. Hence you really need a multi meter. Even then things change with temperature.

Also some coils have an integrated cdi unit. In which case full tests might not be possible with a meter.

All the best

Katy
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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 16 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

That is the normal way to do a quick test. Although you can just stuff a plug in it and hold the plug against the engine while you do it.

But that won't tell you how healthy it is. The manual will have a range of values for resistance of the coil, and it might work while outside those ranges. Hence you really need a multi meter. Even then things change with temperature.

Also some coils have an integrated cdi unit. In which case full tests might not be possible with a meter.

All the best

Katy


Thanks,. Will get hold of a multi meter and check what Ohms i should be reading
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 16 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Leave the plug in the cap, and hold the plug against the engine using gloves or insulated pliers. Darken the area if possible, then crank. You should see a strong blue spark across the plug gap.


Do you know of any other symptoms i would experience besides the ones i listed, if it is indeed a bad coil?
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 16 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

saying what bike /type of coil would help
Coils can look Ok resistance wise, then breakdown as they heat under load
A rough and ready test is to measure the primary LT
and secondary HT windings ( on common simple coils)
Primaries are usually very low, about 1 ohm or less
and secondaries very high, say 6 Kilo ohms or above

12V DC coils will test a bit differently to AC CDI coils
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:55 - 17 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reading the symptoms again it could be other things than the coil or plug.
Saying what bike would really help you know.
It could be AC source coils, CDI box, fuel starvation due to faulty vacuum fuel tap, faulty fuel pump, intermittent supply to ignition, bad grounding, bad connectors and so on..............

but as we don't know which if any of these you may have, its guess work or tarot cards
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 17 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seeing as this can be whichever bike I want it to be, the problem is with the ignition windings on the stator. Unplugging the multi plug under the tank with 3 yellow wires going in will help the bike start and run, but will mean the rest of it isn't charging.

In the spirit of the thread, I'm not going to tell you which bike is fixed by doing this.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Seeing as this can be whichever bike I want it to be, the problem is with the ignition windings on the stator. Unplugging the multi plug under the tank with 3 yellow wires going in will help the bike start and run, but will mean the rest of it isn't charging.

In the spirit of the thread, I'm not going to tell you which bike is fixed by doing this.


Was a 125cc Lexmoto Street

Bit late replying but the coil was fine. Multi meter test showed coil reading 4.4 ohms, when it needed to be between 3 and 5. Other test with one prong in coil and one in spark plug cap showed a reading of close to 13k ohms. Ideal stated as between 10 and 20k

Coil fine... gave bike to a mechanic in the end, he did a few tests and noticed that when starting bike, and giving it a few revs the throttle is unresponsive at about 5-6k RPM and thus the RPM's wont climb. The bike will then make a sort of muted stumbling noise (and exhaust has very faint thumping/popping noise) and cut out, then instantly spit out of the exhaust. [but not every single time] Spit sound is reminiscent of somebody cracking a whip

Diagnosed it as a compression issue, and valve clearances need doing. He said it wasn't the piston or rings. Thanks anyway
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mechanic eh? that's a broad term
problem is compression and valves?
hmmmmm.........
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The last post was made 7 years, 1 day ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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