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New clutch plates, now sticks when hot - help!

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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: New clutch plates, now sticks when hot - help! Reply with quote

Got a FZS600, clutch was worn and slipping lots, so just put in some brand new EBC plates and replaced springs too with EBC heavy duty ones. Fresh oil went in (Castrol Power1, Semi 10w40), plates were soaked in this for a hour beforehand too.

Now, I'm pretty certain I put all the plates back in right order, as per set coming out, with damper spring and thinner plate coming second. Pressure plate was refitted in the one position it fit flush against the plates. Torqued all springs up exactly as Haynes stipulated (8Nm). Pulling clutch lever moves plates out nicely as you'd expect. Though I did adjust it to be sure (both at sprocket cover and at lever).

Now, when bike is cold it all runs fine. Gear change is nice and smooth, slips into neutral fine. Lots of bite and kick in ass as you jump up the gears and open it up.

However, after 10 mins of running once things have warmed up the clutch will stick and stick really bad. At first it just won't go into neutral and you can feel the bike pulling forward whilst the clutch lever is pulled right in. Warm it some more, and you really have to hold the front brake in, get the revs high enough and you can almost do a burn out with the clutch lever pulled in! Stick it on centre stand in gear and you have to stamp on back brake to keep wheel still with clutch in before it soon stalls.
If I look down through oil filler I can see all the plates moving in and out as I pull lever, even when hot.

Any ideas? I'm totally puzzled here. Question
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this the clutch that should have the ball bearing on the end of the short push rod? If so, did you refit it?
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Nope.
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you measure the stack height of the new clutch and compare it to the manual?
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evil Hans wrote:
Is this the clutch that should have the ball bearing on the end of the short push rod? If so, did you refit it?


Didn't see a ball when I dismantled it. Looking at the spares diagram:
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/yamaha-parts/motorcycles/fzs600-fazer-2003/clutch-351470.aspx

It seems the ball is behind the push rod, which I left in-situ. Only the pressure plate and bearing in it were removed. Bearing had good movement, but gave it a spot of grease nonetheless. So, I don't think there's anything missing after i refitted it all.
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope. wrote:
Did you measure the stack height of the new clutch and compare it to the manual?


No... Just assumed new kit specific for bike was good.
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Nope.
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 25 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arfa__ wrote:
Nope. wrote:
Did you measure the stack height of the new clutch and compare it to the manual?


No... Just assumed new kit specific for bike was good.


Never assume. Go measure it and report back.
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 26 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope. wrote:
Arfa__ wrote:

No... Just assumed new kit specific for bike was good.


Never assume. Go measure it and report back.


Tipped it on side and took it all apart tonight. Didn't have a pair of calipers to accurately measure (Screwfix couldn't get any in until tomorrow), but all plates appear to be ~3mm (Haynes book quotes 2.94-3.06mm, service limit 2.8mm). Double checked kit, definitely right one for FZS600.

Took them all out anyway, inspected. Some appears a little dry of oil, so did cover them in more oil.

Also read elsewhere about the steel plates having a slight rounded edge on one side. Hadn't noticed last time, so ensure they were all same way around, rounded edge facing outwards.

Double checked basket, no obvious notches on fins etc. Also double checked movement of plates with cover off, moves out about a 1cm and running fingers along edges of plates they appears to slides easily.

Once all refitted, it's definitely better than it was now. No longer pulls when clutch is engaged, even after 30-45min stop start ride around town. However, when warm it's very reluctant to go into neutral. Big effort to pop it up out of first then will always go straight to second. And vice-versa trying to go down from second. If I kill it, it will go into neutral much easier.

So, better, but not perfect.

I've got a new clutch cable to go on, will try that next, if only to rule it out. Otherwise I'm half wondering if I should have replaced the steel plates too - weren't obviously warped, but I didn't thoroughly check them all.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 26 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too lazy to read, sorry.

Does the clutch system have a worm drive + rod?

If it does, that will need re-setting as well as the cable adjusters.
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