Installing Engine Bars

Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Hoping to install the engine bars over the next few weeks (CB500S), before I drop it again.

I'm aware that you only take one of the mounting pins out at a time and replace it with the new ones. However there are a couple of things I am unsure about:

1) Do the old mounting pins have threads at both ends? (the new ones do), if so, how do you remove/install them without mushrooming the ends? A punch pin would damage the end wouldn't it?

2) should I put a scissor jack with a block of wood under the front/rear of the engine while doing to front/back mounting pin, so the holes all stay aligned?

3)Is there anything I should be aware of? Do I have to remove anything stupid (like the tank/carbs/wiring loom/sub frame ect) to access the pins?
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I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

I can't specifically say for your bike but I used to fit engine/crash bars on all my old bikes before bobbins became popular.

Don't over think it.

1) The old bolts should come out pretty easily. If you need to hit them to get things moving, leave a nut on one end done up a few threads and tap that. Once it's moving you aren't going to mushroom anything.

2) If you have tight engine bolts elsewhere then why should anything move out of line. Saying that, if you haven't got a centre stand you could use the jack to keep it upright while working rather than tilted on the side stand.

3)It should be obvious what you have to remove. I can't help any more than that as I don't know the arrangement on that bike. If they are new bars, do they not come with instructions?

Also, my Tiger had torque settings for the bolts. If you are experienced then you probably won't be too fussed and guess them but otherwise use a torque wrench.

If you need any more help...............PICTURES, PICTURES and, guess what, more PICTURES.

Did I say pictures would be useful for us who don't know the bike Wink

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Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Cheers for that. I'll be having a crack at it on Monday.

I do have a centre stand (I can't imagine doing chain cleaning/lubing without one), I am glad to hear that the engine won't sag out of the frame without the support of both mounting bolts!

The bars do come with instructions, but being a Polish company, their grasp of English isn't great. It looks simple enough, but I've done enough work on my bike to know that looking simple doesn't mean much.

Yeah, 45Nm (much lower than I expected).

Thumbs Up

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I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it

Commuter_Tim · World Chat Champion Joined: 09 May 2013 Karma :

On the bars of my CB500, 1 of them went through lower engine mount bolt and collar.
If your model is the same then you may well have great difficulty removing it.
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The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.

Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Commuter_Tim · World Chat Champion Joined: 09 May 2013 Karma :

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Commuter_Tim · World Chat Champion Joined: 09 May 2013 Karma :

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

On a hand held impact driver I would quite happily use a standard 'hand socket'. Preferably a six sided but I'd use a twelve point if that was all I had. Just use one that you won't care if you break it.

You won't kill the bolt with the impact driver on the hex. If you put the nut on the thread and hit that with a good hammer I'd say that would be a 50/50 fix or fuck scenario.

Can you get a decent ring spanner on the bolt hex and hit that with a club hammer? That might do it. It's the shock loading freeing the rust and shit thats holding the bolt you need.

In my time at sea I've used whatever has been available for jobs cause you can't get to toolstation and to be honest, unless you do something really stupid, you should be OK:up:
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Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Turns out you can remove the bit adaptor on my impact driver (for the screw/torx/ect) to reveal a standard 1/4" bit Doh!

Looking through my tool kit, the 1/4" 6 sided sockets are in fact labelled as impact sockets, so I might give it a few whacks tomorrow (weather permitting).

Which brings me to my next question, which end of the bolt should I be heating? The nut end or the bolt head end? (I assume the bolt head since that is the end that I am trying to turn)

I tried putting the nut back on the thread with a bit of wood to protect the nut and gave it several good thwacks with the lump hammer. Then tried it with the big punch pin on the wood, but the wood split and mashed the edge of the nut Razz

That bolt is well and truly stuck in there. I could feel the head of the bolt just starting to go with the breaker bar when I first tried it. If the head gets rounded, is the next step to drill it and hammer it out with a punch pin?
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I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it

Commuter_Tim · World Chat Champion Joined: 09 May 2013 Karma :

I'm gonna go ahead and assume you mean 1/2", as a 1/4" socket would surely be near useless on a rusted bolt.
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The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.

Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Abject failure. Sad

The bolt hasn't turned at all, even with liberal application of heat and the impact driver. If fact, the impact driver appears to be dying, with cracks appearing in the heavy metal base and the plastic outer grip starting to spin on its own, then riding down over the base Confused

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I tell you what, mathematically, I'm having it

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

Jewlio Rides Again LLB · World Chat Champion Joined: 06 Oct 2015 Karma :

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

That electric one will be fine. So will the manual one. I don't know how much maintenance you intend doing your self but the hand one is a must. The electric one is more of a nice to have but in this case is the tool of choice.

With the electric one you really will need proper impact sockets. Don't use ordinary ones, it will destroy them in the end. I would check those sockets with it are impact ones before using them as well. Get something like this.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86722?table=no

I use my air one most of he time having a plumbed in compressor in my garage. My electric one is a clark 12v that clips on a car battery. I bought that before I fitted the air system.

If I didn't have my old 12v one, I would go for battery powered but they are in the £300 range for a good one. I have to work on canal boats and at present I find the 12v one good enough but if that dies I will be buying a battery Makita.
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Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

I have some Parkside gear as either Lidl or Aldi supply it now and again. It's not bad stuff, certainly for a personal tool kit.

Yes, those black sockets are impact sockets and your Parkside gun comes with 4 wheel nut size ones as well. Just be careful using the gun on anything smaller than 17mm. I prefer to use the hand impact driver on those.

Keep putting release oil on the bolt while you wait for the nut gun to arrive and hopefully it will free up when you operate it. Thumbs Up

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Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :

Falco · Traffic Copper Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Karma :

Polarbear · Super Spammer Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Karma :