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CBR1100XX Not starting, possible reg/rec issue?

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winz
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: CBR1100XX Not starting, possible reg/rec issue? Reply with quote

Hi All,

So I was riding from Bristol to Brighton yesterday and I pulled over a few times, the last time I got back on the bike and it wouldn't start. Phoned the AA and waited for 2 hours and they came and charged the battery and off I went again.

It seems like the battery isn't getting charged when riding, I've read that these bikes suffer from reg/rec failure, could replacing this be a quick/simple fix? I've got to get back tomorrow and think I have totally fucked it being bank holiday.

EDIT, just to add, I have just managed to start it, but I am only thinking this as the battery still has some charge left in it.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 10:35 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you a multimeter to check all, instead of guessing?
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Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 10:39 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would suggest that you buy yourself a cheap multimeter, it will save you a lot of time and money. Guessing where the problem lies and throwing parts at it could be frustrating and expensive. A cheap 'meter will only set you back a tenner and will prove where the problem lies in minutes. The tests for this fault are easy and I would happily guide you through them if you need assistance.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll need to test the alternator output to see if that's working. You can do a reverse diode test on the R/R with most cheap multimeters but that only tells you half the story. It's almost definite that one or both are toast. The unfortunate part is that a faulty alternator can (and often does) take down a working R/R and vice versa. Likewise a toasted R/R can kill a healthy battery so in the end you replace the whole charging circuit. Continuing to use the bike with either a fucked R/R or stator ends up getting more expensive than needs be and can even end up frying any weak points in your wiring.

Swap the R/R for a decent mosfet and if you need to replace the stator it's best to replace with an original Honda rather than some bargain bucket winding that will only last you 10k miles if you're lucky.

The VFR suffers from the exact same troubles but once I'd replaced everything and upgraded to a 'fet R/R I've never looked back.

I also strongly recommend a voltage monitor for the VFR/Bird. I fitted one of these and it sits there and tells you in an un-intrusive way if your charging circuit is over/under volting and when the engine is off it indicates your battery voltage (Useful for winter mornings when zub zero temps nip the battery, you can see if she's a gonner before you even turn the key)

https://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php
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Last edited by ADSrox0r on 10:54 - 27 May 2017; edited 2 times in total
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also recommend printing out this fault finding flow chart that tells you what to test and what voltages to expect at various rev ranges etc.

https://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf


If you need to limp home and can get her bumped off then disconnect the lights, try not to let the fan come on if you can avoid it.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 11:14 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ADSrox0r wrote:
If you need to limp home and can get her bumped off then disconnect the lights, try not to let the fan come on if you can avoid it.

Also check and clean the connector between the alternator and reg/rec. Dirt and corrosion there can sometimes be the instigator of failure but even if it isn't, a quick clean might add some extra miles to "limp mode."
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:

Also check and clean the connector between the alternator and reg/rec. Dirt and corrosion there can sometimes be the instigator of failure but even if it isn't, a quick clean might add some extra miles to "limp mode."


Indeed, also check if it's fried. Common weak point and personally I ditch the connector and solder directly.

My bet is your R/R has overheated in the weather....
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winz
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. I'll pick up a multimeter today, but not able to test anything today. Will try and limp it home tomorrow and test everything there over the weekend.
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Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 12:09 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that's a good move. It will prove useful in the future too so is a good investment. For most users a cheap meter (that a professional electrician would sniff at) is more than adequate.

The table that ADSrox0r links to is far more comprehensive than I would be able to guide you through as it has much more 'bike specific info than me. The first couple of tests (measure voltage across battery and hold engine revs at idle then 5k) are very easy however and will tell you if you need to look further into the charging system within 30sec.

Edit: look for a meter that has an audible continuity test (beeps when it senses a circuit). You will be very grateful of this feature in the future.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

For ref, Argos have a bog standard one on sale at £14.99

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/7015603

It'll do the job for what you want, not terrific but most of us that are in the electrical trade end up with a Fluke (many hundreds of ponds) for calibrated accuracy.
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P.
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I warn you, they are heavy. After pushing one nearly 2 miles home after it stopped charging... I died.

Check all 3 yellow wires going from stator to reg rec have the same AC voltage when bike started and running. If so it's the regulator. Set to AC and 1 probe on one of the wires pins, other on clean spot of frame.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
I warn you, they are heavy. After pushing one nearly 2 miles home after it stopped charging... I died.


Pushed the Viff, about 5-6Kg lighter than the Bird, about half a mile and thought I had actually cashed in my chips. Never sweat like that before, and I've had a few fat birds in my time.
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winz
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 27 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

In before post asking for anyone inbetween Bristol and Brighton with a van for help...
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winz
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PostPosted: 15:15 - 28 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So it started this morning and I have made it back, going to pick up a multimeter this week and work through the above points. Thanks all.
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winz
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 30 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I have done some testing and I have found this wonderful little PDF on here: https://www.bikechatforums.com//files/bike_charging_bible.pdf.

Reading across the battery terminals was 12.6v, so a little low. With revs it barely changed.

Checked the Stator > reg\rec, Was giving consistent readings of 0.6Ω when off. 10v on idle but didn't jump under load.

Need to do some more tests but had work to do. More to come...
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 15:06 - 30 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the loom plugs first. Actually un-plug them and inspect the terminals. If they are covered in green/black crud clean them up, if melted cut them back and choc-block them.

Your stator should output about 60VAC with the engine running at fast idle, could be a lot more or a bit less. The reg/rec should be putting out high-14's VDC.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 30 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

winz wrote:

Reading across the battery terminals was 12.6v, so a little low. With revs it barely changed.


That indicates nothing is getting to the battery at all. As already stated, check stator output (make sure to check <absence of> continuity to ground) and go from there.
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winz
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 30 May 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am a total novice with this, but to test the stator output, that's checking the terminals 1-2, 2-3, and 1-3 without being plugged in to the reg/rec while the bike is running?

EDIT, just found online that I need to test that nothing goes to ground by testing -ve battery terminal to one of the yellow wires. I'll pick this back up tomorrow morning.
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winz
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 24 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So little update, I used the bike last weekend and there wasn't any issues (at least with the bike).

Just got outside to test the reg rec/stator again and the bike won't even start.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/stfje3cc0d00dc9/bb.mp4?dl=0

Anyone have any idea what that noise could be?

Think it's time for a professional to have a look, or at least someone that know what they are doing.

EDIT, just to add, just check the battery, 11v, that noise has stopped, when trying to start goes down to 10v, going to pick up a battery now.

EDIT EDIT, new battery fitted and it turns over, testing commencing in the morning.
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winz
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 26 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So after some more investigating..

https://i.imgur.com/sjpEGLw.jpg
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P.
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 26 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crisps mate.
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winz
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 26 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Crisps mate.


Totally totalled. New one has been ordered, just hoping the reg/rec isn't fried too, will check that once the new stator is in.
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Keir
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 26 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

id probably put a new one onanyway - and a genuine Honda one at that.
They are a known weak point so might as well fix it all at once rather than risk another failure.
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 26 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Indeed, a knackered stator can take out a working r/r so when you plop your shiny new stator in the r/r assassinates it in short order.
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P.
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 26 Jun 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuck getting a genuine Honda.

R1 MOSFET permanently wired.
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