2013 CBR600f - Possible first big one! ( mileage advice )

[kaz32]

Alright troops, how y'all doing?

Straight to the point here, all going well I will have my full licence this August, looking at a 2013 Cbr600f for my first big bike which I will 'intend' to keep for a few years ( building experience and commuting on ) the example I'm looking at has 25k on the clock it has full service history and seems to be in good nick plus comes with 3 months warranty. I will be putting no more than 6k on it a year. Now I know looked after most bikes can and will do well over 50-100k but am I better to go for something with less mileage or just go for it?

Thanks in advance.

Kaz

[Rogerborg]

CBR600F ticking over to 300,000 miles.

Not directly comparable as you're looking at the Hornet-in-a-frock version, but it's got an engine and running gear with a long development history and I wouldn't expect any surprises.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[haroman666]

My 2000 600f has 70,000 on the clock. Still purrs like a kitten-killing-machine.
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The mistresses: 2000 Honda CBR600f, 2000 Honda VTR1000

[haroman666]

[Itchy]

Buy the older 2001-2004 FI version instead.

The biggest differences are the old one is more powerful. It handles better due to better suspension and fully adjustable forks as well as a twin spar frame. The new CBR has a cheapo spine frame.

Hell with the savings you can buy all sorts of goodies for your old one to make it handle a whole load better than many machines today.

I looked and rode a CBR600F 2012 and a CBR650 they felt nothing like the old CBR. So I bought an old CBR and threw £900 towards suspension upgrades and more towards other nice bits...
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Spain 2008France 2007Big one 2009 We all die. The goal isn't to live forever, the goal is to create something that will. In the end, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it is worth watching.

[kaz32]

Thanks for all the input guys, I really have considered that itchy but for some reason just pulled towards the newer model. Think i feel better with the idea of it being under 5 years old as opposed to over 10. I suppose there will be pro's and cons for each however I think I have my heart set on the newer model.

My only real concern is the slightly higher mileage than other examples but of course I am aware that a bike with 60k on the clock could be in a lot better condition than one with 10k due to how it's been used/looked after.

Thanks again guys.

Kaz

[Rogerborg]

Have you compared the price of a 25K mile dealer bike versus what that money will buy you privately?

Actually, why are you even looking at bikes now when you won't be licensed for another 2 months?

If it's still available then, it's because nobody else thinks its worth what they're asking.

You're lucky that Tef never emerges from New Bikers or the Workshop, or you'd get The Lecture.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[kaz32]

Thanks again for the comment, yeah I completely agree if it's available in 2months still it's more than likely overpriced.

The only thing that a private bike for the same money will get me is lower mileage and probs a £500 saving but no warranty or that little bit of peace of mind you get when buying through a dealer, plus the particular bike I am looking at has all the little bits and bobs the way I would want them.

I know I shouldn't really be looking at bikes this early but my big brother died last month and had that not happened then I would be buying one within the next week or so as I'd fully licenced mid July providing all went to plan with both modules. I guess it's probably a little distraction for me and a way of trying to move forward as I've been stuck in limbo for the last 5 weeks. If I find the right bike I won't wait to pass to buy it. I know this is probably not the best way to go about it however that's what I'm going to do.

Again thanks for all the comments/opinions they are all very much appreciated.

Kaz.

[kramdra]

New ones are ugly as fuck. Cbr6 f4i's are very reliable, and massive availability of pattern and used parts. My f4i is at 85k.

On thing you quickly learn is a dealer does not give peace of mind, just stress and more problems. If you buy private, then any problems are easily fixed, with the dealer you are stuck with them and paying for it, nothing is free. 3 months warranty is pathetic...

Newer Honda's seem to have weak radiators, couple of stone hits and they leak You dont want to know the dealer price for a CB1000r, and they are not common so no used/pattern replacements. f4i radiators can survive nuclear war.

Regs are common failure on almost all bikes, other than newer ones with the mosfet type. Its 30 quid part so dont worry about it. If it shits the bed, replace with one from an s1000RR.

Exhaust is the other common failure about 6 years or 30k, this is the main thing I check when buying a used bike.

[Itchy]

[haroman666]

[Rogerborg]

I completely agree. 4 year old bikes are in that sour spot where they've lost the first flush of youth (and worthwhile warranty) but aren't yet bargains.

However, if it's AO13VVA up at £4K, then the price isn't unreasonable and there's nothing obviously hooky in the history. While the engine should be fine, you will want to check out the suspension, bearings, exhaust and chain. All of these are consumables and won't be covered by a warranty.

But for the love of Tef, get licensed up and actually ride a variety of bikes before deciding on a particular model, let alone an example of it.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[kaz32]

Thanks again for the input people!

I hear what y'all are saying, I have only ever bought one bike before and it was 6 months old with 500miles on it, I just always think that what if there's a serious under lying issue that pops up a month after buying a bike private, can't exactly go back to the seller and say I want my money back whereas I would have a case against a reputable dealership and could go to the ombudsman if I had to, but that's just my line of thought to prevent getting majorly stung.

Who knows what I'll do but that's part of the reason for starting this thread, although it was mainly around the mileage query, it's making me think of angles that barely crossed my mind(food for thought), so again thanks very much for all the comments, they're all very much appreciated.

Kaz

[Alpineandy]

If you're still 2 months from getting your licence (assuming you pass 1st time), don't decide on which bike yet.
Who knows what will be available when you do actually get your licence.

By all means spend the time in bike shops etc deciding what fits you so you can narrow the field when to can buy one.
But don't spend until you've passed...

When you do pass, buy a bike based on condition and history.
The mileage (and also the age of the bike) only becomes relevant when you've a couple of similar bikes to decide between.
However the mileage should be reflected in the price.

You mention that you'll be commuting but don't give any indication of what you commute actually consists of.
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The above comment isn't necessarily the truth and anyone that says it is, is only correct if it's the truth or they're bigger than me.

[Rogerborg]

[chickenstrip]

[Alpineandy]

Some people do have the slightly odd idea that newer always means better.
Most people wouldn't buy a new house and would have a heart attack if they thought any house they bought would reduce in value.
But they're happy to lose money buying a Car or Bike and accept that a newer one will lose more money despite costing more to buy... Odd.
Somehow in the last 60 years Cars and Bikes have become disposable items....
They seem to miss the point that vehicles (2 and 4 wheels) are built more cheaply than ever but that can't be reflected in the cost due to the expensive HSE design requirements.
Whilst it's true that mechanically the engineering and manufacturing improvements do mean they can last longer between services etc and are more efficient, but they're housed in something which is much less robust.
____________________
The above comment isn't necessarily the truth and anyone that says it is, is only correct if it's the truth or they're bigger than me.

[kaz32]

Wow, some of the points made are amazing, thank you!

Really did not think I was going to say this but I think now I'm going to wait until I actually have my full licence in the mean time I will go check out some in person and have a wee gander at some other possibilities, but again I feel that my heart is set on this particular bike but that's not to say that I may not change my mind.

As for commuting it was probably pointless mentioning that to be honest, as I probably will average out at a few days per month at most(70mile round trip)

When it comes to weather, bad weather doesn't put me off, when I had my 125 for best part of 7years I commuted to work all year round( didn't have a drivers licence at this point ) and I live in Glasgow the weather ain't pretty at the best of times. ( Of course when it was ridiculous and dangerous to ride then I would avoid it )

Really grateful for all the advice/input/opinions given.

Thanks

Kaz.