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Honda cbf125

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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 05 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would that be a BMW Motorrad mechanic like the one who certified my GS as "approved used" without spotting the pissing fork seal? Wink

Cheapest 10W40 from a supermarket, job done. Those engines are designed to be run on whatever random gloop is available in India. It'll thank you for not putting anything too fancy in it.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Wullie1967
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 02 Jul 2017
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 05 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

And changed my oil and now my bike drives great thank you all for your input 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
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RhynoCZ
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Joined: 09 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 05 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

''There's no substitution for the proper lubrication.'' - Brazzers Wink
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Wullie1967
Two Stroke Sniffer



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PostPosted: 21:00 - 07 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nooooo took bike for long drive tonight then the dreaded clutch slip came back anyone done a clutch on cbf125
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 07 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have enough free play?

Any metal bits in the oil (such as parts of the clutch springs, bits of the clutch plates)?

https://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-203/files/WR250R_0074-copy.jpg
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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Wullie1967
Two Stroke Sniffer



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PostPosted: 21:54 - 07 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes my free play is there and the cable is adjust right back to no more and it only slips when really hot
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 07 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, time to check the clutch plates and springs, then. Looking at the CBF125 engine, you're gonna have to remove the clutch cover for that. Wink

Note, remove the cover very carefuly. There is a paper gasket and if you rip it, you're gonna have to replace it. You should replace it anyway, but I have removed the cover before and reused the gasket with no leaks afterwards, so it is doable.

* Also, sometimes the plates might be alright but the springs too worn. Remove the springs and measure them (the service manual should tell you the right height).

** Check youbook, there are quite a lot of videos about CBF 125 clutch removal. Read the service manual /Haynes as well. Thumbs Up
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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Wullie1967
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 02 Jul 2017
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 08 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Ryno I don't have a Haynes manual but going to strip it tomorrow
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 08 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you get so far, that you will be removing the clutch plates, make some pictures and notes, so you know in what order to put the new plates back. Thumbs Up
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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Wullie1967
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 02 Jul 2017
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 08 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have adjusted the
Play on the gear leaver to about 1/2 cm but I also have play on the up and down movement of clutch lever is this norm
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ThatDippyTwat
World Chat Champion



Joined: 07 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 08 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're not precision devices. As long as the pivot itself and the perch are not flapping about, it's all normal.
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