|
Author |
Message |
pompousporcup... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
jaffa90 |
This post is not being displayed .
|
jaffa90 World Chat Champion
Joined: 06 Apr 2016 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
pompousporcup... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
groovylee |
This post is not being displayed .
|
groovylee World Chat Champion
Joined: 20 Nov 2011 Karma :
|
Posted: 16:55 - 24 Jul 2017 Post subject: |
|
|
easiest scenario - battery is on its way out, just need to replace it.
slightly harder - Reg/Rec on its way out - also need to replace it
pain in the arse - something with the generator. not played woith that side of things myself, but i'd be betting on it being one of the first two, most likely the battery.
get busy with the multi meter - test battery when not running, and when running, and then post the results up, that will hopefully get your answer ____________________ Past - 1988 honda revere 600, 1996 kawasaki gpz500s, 1999 Yamaha R6
Current - 2002 Aprilia RSV1000R & 1999 Kawasaki ZX6R |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
pompousporcup... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
redeem ouzzer |
This post is not being displayed .
|
redeem ouzzer World Chat Champion
Joined: 06 Oct 2015 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
RhynoCZ |
This post is not being displayed .
|
RhynoCZ Super Spammer
Joined: 09 Mar 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 11:39 - 25 Jul 2017 Post subject: |
|
|
GT200Fan79 wrote: | It's not unusual for the idle to dip when the lights are on. Just set it to hold idle when warm with lights on. |
This.
Your motorcycle has a ''car type'' of alternator, which means more current you draw, more resistant the alternator is to spin and the engine has got to work harder. I've noticed this on my ZX7R (similar engine, also equipped with a ''car type'' alternator).
In modern automobiles, this issue is solved by the ECU which compensates the higher roling resistance of the alternator when you draw more power out of it (it automatically raises the idle speed). Your motorcycle can't compensate the extra load, hence you've got to set the idle with the engine hot and the headlight on. This makes the idle slightely higher when all the lights are off, obviously. What I did with the ZX7R, I warmed it up, turned on the low beam and highbeam (2 separate lights 2x55W) and the rear brake light at the same time and set the idle so the bike didn't stall. The difference between the lights on and off was less than 100rpm.
My previous Honda CB1 had the ''classic'' motorcycle type of alternator and the bike didn't care much about the lights, in terms of the idle speed. ____________________ '87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
pompousporcup... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :
|
Posted: 12:05 - 25 Jul 2017 Post subject: |
|
|
good to know, thats what i've done and it looks to be working I will do that in future to avoid this but at least i know the charging system is fine
Now to check the resistance of the coils, ht lead and end caps to rule those out.. still have a stumble under 4k rpm.
Just ordered an little ultrasonic cleaner to get the jets good and clear as its possible i have a fuel issue, rather than ignition/spark. After 4k rpm it seems to pick up and rev freely. |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
RhynoCZ |
This post is not being displayed .
|
RhynoCZ Super Spammer
Joined: 09 Mar 2012 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
pompousporcup... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
RhynoCZ |
This post is not being displayed .
|
RhynoCZ Super Spammer
Joined: 09 Mar 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 12:17 - 25 Jul 2017 Post subject: |
|
|
pompousporcupine wrote: | good to know, thats what i've done and it looks to be working I will do that in future to avoid this but at least i know the charging system is fine |
You should also know there are brushes in the alternator, that require replacing once they're too worn. Your motorcycle being 30 years old, I'd asume someone already did that in the past, but I wouldn't rely on that. The brushes are cheap and a essential part of the alternator unit. This is where you should refer to your service manual, for the minimum lenght of the brushes.
EDIT: Leave it as it is, at least for now. The brushes are either alright and working = the alternator charges your battery just fine, or they are too worn, even broken off = the alternator doesn't work at all or has very reduced power output.
The changing interval and minimum lenght is only a precaution.
21039-1052 (1988 GPz900R)
https://www.motolights.cz/pd/picown2/401816.png ____________________ '87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
Last edited by RhynoCZ on 13:06 - 25 Jul 2017; edited 3 times in total |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
jjdugen |
This post is not being displayed .
|
jjdugen World Chat Champion
Joined: 03 Jun 2011 Karma :
|
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
pompousporcup... |
This post is not being displayed .
|
pompousporcup... World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Apr 2015 Karma :
|
Posted: 15:09 - 25 Jul 2017 Post subject: |
|
|
the reason for pods is due to the extremely tight clearance when removing and replacing the carbs. Its a ridiculous design. The carb-airbox rubbers go hard over time making it pretty much impossible. I could buy new ones but then i'm buying a new filter and clamps etc etc. The cost, given what ive spent already, ends up spiralling.
The ones i am using are these:
https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/BWsAAOSwT~9WlMMg/s-l225.jpg
They're not the generic badly fitting, metal capped pods Peeps on the gpz forum have had them running with these without issue so i believe there is a way |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
RhynoCZ |
This post is not being displayed .
|
RhynoCZ Super Spammer
Joined: 09 Mar 2012 Karma :
|
Posted: 15:41 - 25 Jul 2017 Post subject: |
|
|
Oh Yes, I do remember my struggle with the GPz airbox on the 550. No matter what engine you had, if it was made in the 80's and said GPz on the side cover, it was a pain in the arse to remove the airbox and put it back in. I rember I had to remove the rear mud guard to get a few milimeters of space to actually pull the carburetors off.
The airbox being the only reason why many riders with GPz400/550/750/1100 and GPZ750/900 used pod filters. I did a fair bit of experimenting, even tried open intake for awhile, but I got back to the airbox in the end as that worked the best, weatherproof. ____________________ '87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
|
Back to top |
|
You must be logged in to rate posts |
|
|
Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 6 years, 268 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
|
|
|