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Charging system issues

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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 24 Jul 2017    Post subject: Charging system issues Reply with quote

To go along with my current woes getting the gpz900r running right i have found that the sodding bike tends to die slowly but surely.

Messing around trying to get the idle to stay at 1k i turned all the lights on and noticed the idle speed drop. Once the lights were on i raised the idle back to 1k and it seems to idle completely fine now.. if i turn the lights off the idle rises very slightly..
if i set the idle with no lights on and THEN turn the lights on, the idle drops to the point it struggles to run.

What is likely the issue here?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 24 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you a multimeter to test the battery voltage when switching on/off
the lights, also the battery voltage the morning after before switching on anything and when switching on and at 4/5000rpm??????
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 24 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

i do a multi-meter have which i will run at the bike with this evening.

Not being a fan of electrics by any means (i should get more involved really)
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groovylee
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 24 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

easiest scenario - battery is on its way out, just need to replace it.

slightly harder - Reg/Rec on its way out - also need to replace it

pain in the arse - something with the generator. not played woith that side of things myself, but i'd be betting on it being one of the first two, most likely the battery.

get busy with the multi meter - test battery when not running, and when running, and then post the results up, that will hopefully get your answer Thumbs Up
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

the battery is brand new. Its one of those yellow motobatt gels ones.

Voltage on the battery reads 12.4 or so when off and goes up to 13.5 or so with the engine running at 4k. This is correct as far as the manual is concerned.

Wierdly i ran the bike, turn off the lights and the revs didnt change.. seems like the charging system is fine at the moment. What isn't fine right now is the fuelling which is proving to be a constant mind fuck trying to get 34mm cvks to run on pods..
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not unusual for the idle to dip when the lights are on. Just set it to hold idle when warm with lights on.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

GT200Fan79 wrote:
It's not unusual for the idle to dip when the lights are on. Just set it to hold idle when warm with lights on.


This.

Your motorcycle has a ''car type'' of alternator, which means more current you draw, more resistant the alternator is to spin and the engine has got to work harder. I've noticed this on my ZX7R (similar engine, also equipped with a ''car type'' alternator). Thumbs Up

In modern automobiles, this issue is solved by the ECU which compensates the higher roling resistance of the alternator when you draw more power out of it (it automatically raises the idle speed). Your motorcycle can't compensate the extra load, hence you've got to set the idle with the engine hot and the headlight on. This makes the idle slightely higher when all the lights are off, obviously. What I did with the ZX7R, I warmed it up, turned on the low beam and highbeam (2 separate lights 2x55W) and the rear brake light at the same time and set the idle so the bike didn't stall. The difference between the lights on and off was less than 100rpm.

My previous Honda CB1 had the ''classic'' motorcycle type of alternator and the bike didn't care much about the lights, in terms of the idle speed.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

good to know, thats what i've done and it looks to be working Thumbs Up I will do that in future to avoid this but at least i know the charging system is fine

Now to check the resistance of the coils, ht lead and end caps to rule those out.. still have a stumble under 4k rpm.

Just ordered an little ultrasonic cleaner to get the jets good and clear as its possible i have a fuel issue, rather than ignition/spark. After 4k rpm it seems to pick up and rev freely.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

pompousporcupine wrote:
What isn't fine right now is the fuelling which is proving to be a constant mind fuck trying to get 34mm cvks to run on pods.


I know this might not be a popular answer, but if you pay a few quid to a specialist, he'll set it up for you in a single afternoon.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
pompousporcupine wrote:
What isn't fine right now is the fuelling which is proving to be a constant mind fuck trying to get 34mm cvks to run on pods.


I know this might not be a popular answer, but if you pay a few quid to a specialist, he'll set it up for you in a single afternoon.


I agree, ideally i want someone to set it up for me, but then again i could use that money on a dynojet kit and be done with it.
I bought the bike to mess with and learn more but its just frustrating some times. I'l get there.. there are bikes with a similar set up to mine that are running fine so i know it can be done.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

pompousporcupine wrote:
good to know, thats what i've done and it looks to be working Thumbs Up I will do that in future to avoid this but at least i know the charging system is fine


You should also know there are brushes in the alternator, that require replacing once they're too worn. Your motorcycle being 30 years old, I'd asume someone already did that in the past, but I wouldn't rely on that. The brushes are cheap and a essential part of the alternator unit. This is where you should refer to your service manual, for the minimum lenght of the brushes.

EDIT: Leave it as it is, at least for now. The brushes are either alright and working = the alternator charges your battery just fine, or they are too worn, even broken off = the alternator doesn't work at all or has very reduced power output.
The changing interval and minimum lenght is only a precaution.

21039-1052 (1988 GPz900R)
https://www.motolights.cz/pd/picown2/401816.png
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor


Last edited by RhynoCZ on 13:06 - 25 Jul 2017; edited 3 times in total
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck getting it to carburate with pod filters. Seriously, try the original air box. IF you insist on pods, I would look for some bell mouths to go onto the carb mouth and fit the pods to them, room permitting. Pods are crap, repeat after me, pods are crap!
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

the reason for pods is due to the extremely tight clearance when removing and replacing the carbs. Its a ridiculous design. The carb-airbox rubbers go hard over time making it pretty much impossible. I could buy new ones but then i'm buying a new filter and clamps etc etc. The cost, given what ive spent already, ends up spiralling.

The ones i am using are these:

https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/BWsAAOSwT~9WlMMg/s-l225.jpg


They're not the generic badly fitting, metal capped pods Thumbs Up Peeps on the gpz forum have had them running with these without issue so i believe there is a way
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 15:41 - 25 Jul 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh Yes, I do remember my struggle with the GPz airbox on the 550. No matter what engine you had, if it was made in the 80's and said GPz on the side cover, it was a pain in the arse to remove the airbox and put it back in. I rember I had to remove the rear mud guard to get a few milimeters of space to actually pull the carburetors off. Razz

The airbox being the only reason why many riders with GPz400/550/750/1100 and GPZ750/900 used pod filters. I did a fair bit of experimenting, even tried open intake for awhile, but I got back to the airbox in the end as that worked the best, weatherproof.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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