Adhesive glue in my fuel.. carb and engine?

[Nousernames2]

Hi, I'm new here, thanks for reading my post.

Bike - custom Suzuki GN125 (year unknown)
Custom = new rear suspension, handlebars and tyres.

And as you can imagine from the title.. I'm new to bikes and bike maintenance as I used adhesive masking tape to tighten the fuel cap of my fuel tank and as I'm living in Hanoi.. the glue obviously melted, dripped, and run its course through my bike. I also continued to run the bike thinking it would pass though like the dodgy petrol had a few weeks earlier.. Bike choked up and is now not starting.

What do I do now? I don't have the money right now to even take it to a mechanic which would only cost me all of 12 quid to fix.. So it's down to me and any advice you guys can offer. I'm thinking clean the carb out. Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance!
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Suzuki GN125 brat

[Nobby the Bastard]

Just how much did you use? I'm impressed that you managed to use so much that the notoriously rubbish glue on masking tape has gummed everything up
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Triton Thrasher]

First, check that there is petrol in the tank.

If you pull the hose off the carburettor, does fuel run out of it when you open the tap? If it's a vacuum tap, turn it to "prime."

If not, then check the filter gauze on the fuel tap. Maybe it's choked with bits of tape.
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Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

[Nousernames2]

Thanks for your replies.

Good point on the first reply, it was more of a duct tape than a masking tape so a fair bit of gummy globby bits have melted in..

Second reply, thanks for this advice, I will check tomorrow for the filter & hopefully it's clogged up to shit and that's it, so does it filter the fuel before going into the engine from the carb? Or fuel before the carb? I actually had a 10 or 11yr old take apart the carb at a mechanics out here haha, I was led there by several other mechanics as they were the 'pros'! Is the carb easy to clean up or is the kid just pretty good with bikes?

I'll take the tube off, turn the tap, see what happens, if no fuel I check the filter, where can i find the filter? What does it look like?

Thank you.
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Suzuki GN125 brat

[mudcow007]

Ive had good success using acetone to clean out my carbs after a failed/ bodged attempt at sealing a leaky fuel tank

sealer melted an covered everything in gloop

dont put anything rubber or plastic in the acetone though

[supZ]

Would imagine if anything it's gummed the jet up.

So find a manual if you can, take the carb off, get to the jet and give that a clean through.. or at least see if it's clear.
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CBR954RR - Daily toy
CBR600RR - Trackbike

[Robby]

I would expect the fuel to dissolve the glue, meaning it shouldn't clog things. Depends on the amount and type of glue though.

4 places in your fuel system where it can get plugged up:

1. In-tank fuel filter. This is usually a small mesh filter on top of the fuel tap (petcock). To check/clean it you need to drain the tank, take the tank off the bike, remove the petcock (more fuel may come out) and then examine the filter which came out with the petcock. If it's dirty, try soaking it in acetone. Do not poke things through it, or scrub it hard. They tend to be fragile and brittle.

2. In-line fuel filter. Often fitted on the fuel line between tank and carb. Turn the fuel off at the tap, take out the fuel filter. Turn it upside down over a sheet of paper, see what comes out. Try blowing through it from the other end and see what comes out. If it's really hard to blow through, it's clogged - replace.

3. Needle valve mesh (in carb). Inside most carbs there is a tiny hemispherical mesh filter above the needle valve. This is a very fine mesh - usually finer than the carb jet holes. To get at it you need to remove the carb, remove the float bowl, remove the float and needle valve, and them pull out or unscrew the needle valve seat with filter. Clean, replace, put it all back together.

4. Jets. Small holes, then get clogged. Use carb cleaner or compressed air to blow them through. Do not poke anything down the holes - each hold is a precision metering device made of quite soft metal, poke a bit of wire down them and they will behave differently afterwards. If they are totally clogged and you can't afford new jets, a toothbrush bristle should be soft enough to poke down. Not recommended, but better than using a steel pin.