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Never ending problem. Xs500 firing on one cylinder

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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Never ending problem. Xs500 firing on one cylinder Reply with quote

Hey guys
I've been messing this for a few weeks now. I've replaced the plugs and ignition coils and checked them once I'd fitted them. I charged the battery for a bit and fitted the coils today. It started up first kick and idled fine for a bit then cut out and struggled to start. When it started again it seemed fine.

I took it out for a quick ride, as soon as i got to the main road and opened it up one of the cylinders cut out. I had to keep the revs up on the way back to keep it from cutting out and as soon as I stoped revving it , it cut out and wouldn't start again.

I've cleaned the carbs twice and the tank is fairly clean + it has a fuel filter

Not sure what else to check

Help greatly appreciated
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a run out did the exhaust tail smell of fuel and was it cooler?
Are the carb slides lifting the same when revving?
I take it the valve clearances have been checked!
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bypass2
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried runing it without the fuel filter.
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Bru
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi. I think this is a twin-coil setup. What I would do after the symptom manifested is firstly, *briefly* touch each downpipe to find out which is cooler, ie. that cylinder not firing. Then, I would swap coils over, and re-run the engine. If the mis-fire moves with the coil change, then that is your issue.

Old coils can break down under load (heat and electrical).

Of course, there is also the plugs to consider, as they can go: insulator cracks and when the plug heats up, spark shorts through crack to head instead of via the spark gap. So, that is a second option to test.
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bru wrote:
Hi. I think this is a twin-coil setup. What I would do after the symptom manifested is firstly, *briefly* touch each downpipe to find out which is cooler, ie. that cylinder not firing. Then, I would swap coils over, and re-run the engine. If the mis-fire moves with the coil change, then that is your issue.

Old coils can break down under load (heat and electrical).

Of course, there is also the plugs to consider, as they can go: insulator cracks and when the plug heats up, spark shorts through crack to head instead of via the spark gap. So, that is a second option to test.


Plugs + coils are new
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

bypass2 wrote:
Have you tried runing it without the fuel filter.


Yea I have actually
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
After a run out did the exhaust tail smell of fuel and was it cooler?
Are the carb slides lifting the same when revving?
I take it the valve clearances have been checked!


I don't think anything smelt of fuel + both pipes were hot . I'm not sure if the slides are lifting at the same time and I haven't checked the clearances yet.
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

After the test run I left it to cool down and tried it again. It started up fist kick but only on the right cylinder. The left pipe completely cold 😕
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plug leads and earth connections Question
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bypass2
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

what about faulty condensor
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 23 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:
Plug leads and earth connections Question


Checked those
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

bypass2 wrote:
what about faulty condensor


Yea I considered this. There's no arcing or burnt points. Am I right in thinking you can't test condensers with a multi meter ?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 01:09 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay2903 wrote:
After the test run I left it to cool down and tried it again. It started up fist kick but only on the right cylinder. The left pipe completely cold 😕

Run it on one cyl and smell what`s coming out of the exhausts.
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 02:44 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:

Run it on one cyl and smell what`s coming out of the exhausts.


What is the intention of that ?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay2903 wrote:
jaffa90 wrote:

Run it on one cyl and smell what`s coming out of the exhausts.


What is the intention of that ?

Smelling for unburnt fuel.
You may have to suspend a fuel tank and remove the plugs after it`s miss firing to see if the plug is wet or dry.
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

One question...... WHY!!!!

Notoriously unreliable, the worst being cracked heads around the valves, oil leaks, poor running...(ahem), ugly, no spares at all, so....WHY?
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
One question...... WHY!!!!

Notoriously unreliable, the worst being cracked heads around the valves, oil leaks, poor running...(ahem), ugly, no spares at all, so....WHY?


There's bad things about every bike. It was cheap, I really like the look of it, its really nice to ride (bit tricky to ride slowly). It's only got 13k so not to concerned about cracked heads and I'll probably only keep it for a year. Also insurance is cheapest for me on these kind of bikes.

I can get most commonly replaced bits easily if not everything is available used or from the Netherlands
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not as good as an RD of same period but look good, handle ok and as long as OP didn't give 4K for it it's worth a fiddle?
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was gonna try what Jaffa was saying but I couldn't get it started today. I kicked for a good while. I pulled the plugs, the plug from the right cylinder was quite blackened the left one was slightly. I cleaned them a bit and stuck them back in. After a bit more kicking it started again and now on both cylinders again.
This is driving me crazy
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Bru
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi. If you are convinced that your electricals are good, then it is back to the carbs. A severely blackened plug suggests an overly rich mixture.

Could be float height, as suggested earlier. Or a sticking float or float needle, not allowing fuel in the carb... Unfortunately as I have learned, carbs need to cleaned scrupulously. Despite cleaning the carbs out (and how well did you do it), the miserable things do like a good clogging; it could even be something irritating like muck from the tank clogging the carbs, depending on how good that fuel filter is (or if it was fitted from the start).

Clearance checks are vital; is there any chance that something is not opening, or opening too much, so messing up the running - along with any carb problem?

Air, fuel, spark... Have you tried spraying the outside of the carb rubbers (between carb and head) with carb cleaner, to see if the engine picks up? Could be an air leak running a cylinder lean... Constant refitting of carbs and rubbers can put a kink in the works.
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bru wrote:
Hi. If you are convinced that your electricals are good, then it is back to the carbs. A severely blackened plug suggests an overly rich mixture.

Could be float height, as suggested earlier. Or a sticking float or float needle, not allowing fuel in the carb... Unfortunately as I have learned, carbs need to cleaned scrupulously. Despite cleaning the carbs out (and how well did you do it), the miserable things do like a good clogging; it could even be something irritating like muck from the tank clogging the carbs, depending on how good that fuel filter is (or if it was fitted from the start).

Clearance checks are vital; is there any chance that something is not opening, or opening too much, so messing up the running - along with any carb problem?

Air, fuel, spark... Have you tried spraying the outside of the carb rubbers (between carb and head) with carb cleaner, to see if the engine picks up? Could be an air leak running a cylinder lean... Constant refitting of carbs and rubbers can put a kink in the works.


I still think it's electrical.
Carbs are clean + nothing is sticking. I've been through them twice and the fuel tank is clean too


Last edited by Jay2903 on 19:26 - 24 Aug 2017; edited 1 time in total
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Jay2903
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've noticed the problem did actually jump cylinders. At first before I replaced the coils it was the right cylinder that wasn't firing and now it's left.
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

could be knackered float needles, that would cause rich running and signs of over rich/flooding. If they are original they are almost certainly fucked by now.
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bypass2
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

take the plug out turn the ignition on being carefull wiggle the points with a screwdriver to see if plug sparks. may have a loose wire between the points to the coils
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Bru
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 24 Aug 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Low-voltage wire from points to coil - how clean are the connectors, how good is the insulation around the wires, any kinks, any green corrosion?

Same from the coil to the plugs. If the problem has followed the coil, then it can only be low-tension, high-tension, or coil. Could be a cracked high-tension cable shorting to the engine or frame?
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