Exhaust wrap over holes

[kramdra]

Recently had a couple backfires while riding, they have blew a couple of pea sized holes in my ageing stainless downpipes, which is getting thin. Only 5 years old but 50k miles.

If I wrap the collector portion where the holes are appearing, this should stop fresh air getting in, keep it quiet, and allow mot to pass in Novemeber?

Is this any good? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182567052876

Plan to change bikes next year after she hits 100k, so not buying a new exhaust.

[RhynoCZ]

That wrap is for heat insulation, not exhaust gases (it won't work). Get it welded (cheap fix).
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[stinkwheel]

Cut a section of steel can (baked bean etc) that covers the holed section and wraps neatly round it. Rub the pipe down with some wire wool to remove any rust and degrease it.

Apply gun gum liberally to the back of your bit of can. Wrap it tightly round the pipe and secure by firmly wrapping garden wire round and round it.

Now put your exhaust bandage over the top of that and secure with more wire wrapped round it in a spiral. If you're feeling keen, jubilee clip top and bottom catching botht the can patch and the bandage.

Run the engine slowly up to temperature to cure the gungum and bandage.

From experience, the above will either fail almost immediately or last for years.

It's been a long time since I've had to do that. I would be very tempted to substitute plumbers silicone for gun gum after recent experience of sealing exhausts and wood burning stoves with it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Stoker]

I've been using epoxy putty on mine, works for a while (week or two) then more rust around the periphery allows it to blow out. Works better on the silencer tbh, and you have to "work" it so some of the putty is inside the pipe, worked underneath the edges for it not to blow straight out again.....
(Passed an mot, as not leaking./ hidden with fresh ht paint... but need to weld properly now as 5.30 am start for work with currently noisy pipe will piss off neighbours)

Gungum, as mentioned by Stink, can work if done properly, ie, sandwiched, as he suggested, but it is brittle and flakey, doesn't like getting wet.

[ADSrox0r]

Anything you do other than properly welded is just a temporary bodge. You'll have to deal with it regardless so either pony up for new pipes or go get them welded.
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Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30

[Tankie]

Even a small welding shop should be able to weld it up for you at little cost
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Always learning, everyday is a school day

[stinkwheel]

They won't.

They'll rub their chin, suck through their teeth then tell you it's stainless and they haven't got the tig set up for stainless just now. And anyway, it's too thin. And the metal's too cheap, it'll just blow a bigger hole. And you'll need to take the exhaust off the bike before they can weld it. And we're closed now anyway and only Jimmy does stainless so come back next Thursday.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Tankie]

Well ,bring it to me and I'll do it, I'll even chuck a cup of tea with the "while you wait " service
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Always learning, everyday is a school day

[kramdra]

I can weld it. I have a decent mig spoolgun setup and a 3/4 full botttle of argon. Ive done stainless before. However it seems to be extremely thin in places and probably past welding even for experienced tig. I am not welding it on the bike. I am not removing it from the bike - its bent and will not go back on!

At back of collector it is cracked. I have a wad of fiberglass, wrapped in stainless mesh, held on by a large hose clip. Its worked well for 7 months. It does not need to be sealed or gas tight. I want to prevent oxygen getting in which will blow it apart, and some mild baffling would be nice for the mot man. Gumgum will fail first time it gets wet.
I think exhaust wrap plus high temp sillicone will probably do what I need. Thanks.

[Jardine]

[kramdra]

https://s26.postimg.org/sg2xz1qft/IMG_20170917_191802.jpg


https://s26.postimg.org/6i6h59bfd/IMG_20170917_194101.jpg

I used fireclay with a short length to make a patch, then wrapped over the top. Looks a lot better than my previous bodge should have removed that and done at the same time. I wrapped the whole length but its only two pea sized holes. You can see under the old bodge the crack is slowly spreading

[Pete.]

[Tankie]

[Polarbear]

[Pete.]

[Tankie]

I'm asking why you think not, I'm always like to here other peoples views, there is more than one way to skin a cat.
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Always learning, everyday is a school day

[kramdra]

It survived its first 70 miles and I was a bit late this morning, it got no special treatment! It is much, much quieter. To the point that Im not sure what gear Im in without looking at the tacho, and Ive turned the music down a bit. There is no way this is coming undone, though the ends might fray *fold ends over next time*.