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golf gti oil pressure warning

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joe g
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 21 Sep 2017    Post subject: golf gti oil pressure warning Reply with quote

Got a mk4 golf gti its the 1.8t and driving around tonight i've had a stop warning low oil pressure message. It came on and off intermittently a few times so i slowly drove home, luckily i was only a couple of miles away. By the time i got home there were no lights or warnings.

The car had a full service yesterday so don't know if the garage have messed something up or not? Or just bad luck that this has happened straight after?

Im guessing its either a blocked oil pump or a dodgy oil pressure sensor but not sure and i can't get under the car to check as it's too low so need a garage to check it out.

The car drove fine on the way back tonight, no noises or anything.

Do oil pumps normally get checked with an oil change? I will ring them and check if they did tomorrow.

Any ideas? cheers
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:59 - 21 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's definitely a faulty oil pressure sensor and/or wiring/conector. If it was a faulty oil pump, the engine wouldn't really be that happy letting you driving around like that. These engines have hydraulic valve tappets. With no oil pressure you'd hear very loud noises from there.

It could also be moisture somewhere where there should be none.

Is there enough oil in it?
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joe g
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 22 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes plenty of oil in it! hopefully just a sensor then, will have a quick drive around tomorrow see if there's any noises or if it even comes on again.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 08:58 - 22 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Being a petrol engine, there should be no ticking sound, especially no ticking sound from the head.

Other reason for engine oil pressure drop would be a significant oil leak, which you would definitely notice in the engine compartement.

Oil pumps are mechanical, chain driven, maintenence free. So intermitten issues would be rather odd.
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groovylee
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PostPosted: 09:22 - 22 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

another possibility for low oil pressure is the wrong grade of oil - if i put anything below 20W50 in my jeep, it throws low oil pressure at me, especially when hot - but then it is nearly 40 years old Laughing
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Nb
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 24 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

These engines can suffer from having a blocked strainer in the sump, what actual light came on?
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joe g
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 24 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

red oil light and it said STOP then low oil pressure
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 25 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time to hook up a OBD reader. Thumbs Up
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 25 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Time to hook up a OBD reader. Thumbs Up


Don't buy any old OBD reader there are a load of shite reader out there that only show very basic info.

You will need to pay more than a tenner for anything that has a hope of seeing the Hidden stuff. Smile
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 25 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

My mate uses an cheap Delphi diagnostic USB interface. Works 100% on BMW e39, Mercedes-Benz w202, '15 Skoda Superb, Skoda Scout and Golf Mk4 TDi and other vehicles as well. I'm not sure where he got it, but it was cheap. You need a computer with Windows, obviously, but that's what makes it cheap, in comparison with the OBD readers that have a display and all sorts of trickery.

I even erased the SRS fault code (there was nothing wrong, I removed the cluster while the battery was connected, so the ECU recorder a SRS check lamp failure, or something like that). Anyway, erasing the SRS fault code is something only a authorized dealer may perform. Rolling Eyes Laughing

EDIT: Just asked my mate and he says it was about 2,000CZK = £67.55
Let all your neighbors and mates know you've got it, charge them a tenner for fixing their issues (telling them what's wrong), profit.

This thing
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1G0rDJXXXXXccXXXXq6xXFXXXV/2015-New-OBDII-SCANNER-CDP-Pro-plus-For-Delphi-ds150e-Autocom-Cars-Trucks-Car-diagnostic-tools.jpg
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joe g
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 01 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

changed the sensors it's not that. gonna change the pickup pipe this week hopefully that will sort it.

when it was serviced they also did an engine flush. No idea why never asked for one and wouldn't want one. Think this could have sent some sludge somewhere and caused the problem.

where do i stand with this? anything i could do?
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 02 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

joe g wrote:
changed the sensors it's not that. gonna change the pickup pipe this week hopefully that will sort it.

when it was serviced they also did an engine flush. No idea why never asked for one and wouldn't want one. Think this could have sent some sludge somewhere and caused the problem.

where do i stand with this? anything i could do?


Do garages actually put flush in? i thought it was just a scam to make a extra £3 from punters?
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 02 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Being a petrol engine, there should be no ticking sound, especially no ticking sound from the head.

Other reason for engine oil pressure drop would be a significant oil leak, which you would definitely notice in the engine compartement.

Oil pumps are mechanical, chain driven, maintenence free. So intermitten issues would be rather odd.


Are these the ones where the timing belt also runs the oil pump, or is that the water pump?
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 02 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

joe g wrote:
By the time i got home there were no lights or warnings.

If it's still off I'd drive it as normal.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 02 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jewlio Rides Again wrote:
Are these the ones where the timing belt also runs the oil pump, or is that the water pump?


I'm not that familiar with this particular engine, but I'd say the oil pump is inside the engine, chain or gear driven. Coolant pumps tend to be aux belt driven, or at least most of the cars I've ever worked on had a aux belt driven coolant pump.

Mostly the stuff that's crucial for the engine is gear or chain/''ribbed'' belt driven (not sure about the English terminology). Engine timing and correct oil pressure are very important, the rest is irrelevant. Meaning, if you take your aux belt off, the engine will still run.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 02 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

joe g wrote:
changed the sensors it's not that. gonna change the pickup pipe this week hopefully that will sort it.

anything i could do?


Yes, it's time to hook up a OBD reader. Changing stuff without knowing what's wrong is always a bad approach.
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 02 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Jewlio Rides Again wrote:
Are these the ones where the timing belt also runs the oil pump, or is that the water pump?


I'm not that familiar with this particular engine, but I'd say the oil pump is inside the engine, chain or gear driven. Coolant pumps tend to be aux belt driven, or at least most of the cars I've ever worked on had a aux belt driven coolant pump.

Mostly the stuff that's crucial for the engine is gear or chain/''ribbed'' belt driven (not sure about the English terminology). Engine timing and correct oil pressure are very important, the rest is irrelevant. Meaning, if you take your aux belt off, the engine will still run.


Brother in law had a Golf Gti of about that vintage ('99) and one of the belts failed, which resulted in one of the pumps collapsing as the belt drove the pump, and bounced valves in the process.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 02 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

That must have been the timing belt. My mate's timing belt tensioner failed on his Vauxhall Vectra. 12 valves bent, no dents in the pistons = we just replaced the head and the tensioner and it was good to go.
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