Crash protection and rear sets for CBR600 f3

[Dweller]

Hi guys, as I’ll be using the CBR600 over winter and will most likely slide it on these rural welsh roads to work, anyone recommend what sliders or bungs (never had a bike with) you go for.

And so,e grippy rear sets that won’t leave my foot falling off?

I did have a good look online but it’s so heavily saturated by Chinese knock offs that look fragile.

[supZ]

I had the old classic r&g ones on my 600f.

Only problem with them is you have to cut a hole in the fairing as the engine mount is not exposed like it is on other bikes. A decent hole saw and a steady hand will get you through that fine. Just make sure it's in the right place

Only downside is you'll have to undo them every time you want to remove the fairing. (Depending on how big you make the hole but personally I don't want a gaping hole in my fairing so mine was just wide enough for the end of the bung to go in (this is starting to sound filthy). Nice and neat but comes with the problem I previously mentioned.

Don't think you're going to have too many options on an old bike like that. When I build my f into a trackbike I found some simple as rearsets and they performed great.

Pretty much identical to these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CBR600-FS-FT-FV-FW-steel-frame-92-98-Race-Rearsets-/391887227653?epid=2225274859&hash=item5b3e4c8b05:m:mC-TaV7_jGtVDQBWY26pQ9Q

The question is though, why do you want to change the pegs? What's wrong with the ones on them? You don't want to fit some aggressive rearsets as it'll just make the bike uncomfortable to ride daily.

What are you trying to achieve?

If the eg rubbers have worn out and your foot is slipping then just get some new rubbers or a second hand replacement peg/set
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CBR954RR - Daily toy
CBR600RR - Trackbike

[Teflon-Mike]

Where you look is where you go......
If you really believe you are going to crash... you probably will... prevention is better than a cure.
Ponder that a while....

1/ 'rear-sets' are after-market accessory footrests and brackets, that 'set' the peg higher and further to the 'rear'.. usually for racing.... So doing, they tent to reduce control that might be effected through the pegs... read up on 'peg loading'... in off-road sport, foot-pegs are placed pretty much amid-ships for weight distribution,and riding for fine control, stading on the pegs, riders will 'weight' one of their peg or push weight forwards or back to maximise traction.... rather hard to do this from a kneeling position, B-U-T in the days of the bucking-bronco two-stroke GP bikes, even full on race bikes tended to not shift the pegs all THAT far back or high, so that riders could 'load' them like a trials bike when they inevtably stepped out of line....... However... that little bit of more elevated terminology explained, your 'problem' isn't the foot-peg posstion.... your problem is that the pegs are not very grippy! Good chance on an old bike that they are rather worn and polished, also good chance that your boots aren't exactly the best, and sports bikes do have a habbt of breaking the arch on boots if you do use heavy loading and or poor footwork...

I would suggest you start there, and look at the state of the pegs and your boots. New pegs, possibly after-market items with wider foot-print and or a grippier tread, possibly a rbber oot might be a 'better' way to tackle the suggested niggle, rather than leaping on a race-mod, that's probably the least helpful way to not solve the problem implied.

2/ Crash-Bungs? I am utterly unconvinced by these devices...... Newtonian laws, specifically the concervation of momentum says, 'energy' ca either be created nor destroyed, merely converted in form... 'impact' energy MUST go somewhere.... So, think of a car bumper... now make that solid... and drive another car into the back of it... car has mass, and it has velocity, that means kinetic energy... that energy is imparted into the car it hits.... and makes car it hits move... if that car don't move, impact energy has to be 'absorbed' by the car struck... that may be dissipated by the car rocking and resistance to that motion wasting the energy stirring air.... but t would have to be a very very light impact! Normally, that energy will do destructive damage... bend or break stuff.... which is why they have a bumper... and in the glas-fibre cover, is a metal bar with metal expresely designed to bend when hit, so as to absorb the impact energy... its a one time shock absorber.

Now apply that theory to an old fashioned pair of engine bars; when bike falls over, bars take the impact, and disipate the impact energy by bending, either in the tube or the bracket that holds them on, rather like a car bumper.... If you have a door-stop crash-bung..... well, if t was made of soft enough plastc that deformed when it was struck, it may absorb a BIT of impact energy, but its tiny, most of that energy will be transmitted through the bung-mount, usually what, an 8mm bolt?

Think about this, whats going to do more damage... wack a brick wall wth a 2lb lump hammer, or put a chissel between the hammer and the brick to 'concentrate' the force fro the hammer onto a few square mm of contact area.. THAT is the effect of a crash-bung....

Rather than the fairing, a few square feet of plastic touching the deck and spreading the impact over a wide area, and getting skufed up i the process, wasting impact energy.... the 'bung' concentrates that force and energy to a single 8mm diameter bolt... and if that bolt is attatched to something solid.... like the frame... probably going to concetrate the force into the main structural member with enough pressure it will do damage! If its bolted up with a deform able bracket behnd it.... it 'may' absorb enough energy to save something.. but ultimately only as long as the bracket does bend and absorb energy and not simply transfer the force to something else,more critical to get bent.... whilst bung bends and cracks the expensive fairly you hoped it would protect....

As a precaution against drop damage, bit like a crash hat, they wont stop you drop the bike, and if you do, it gonna hurt, and how much they might cusion the blow is only between certain limits AND entirely dependent on the mounting and the accident.....

And STILL prevention is better than a cure.....

Starting there.... old racing addage, before looking for more than standard... make sure you have all you should AS standard......

Crap roads are crap roads.... and fear of winter weather is significantly psychosomatic....

Look at race lap times for the same class in wet and dry.. they are usually well within 5-10% of each other... come the 'wet' the roads dont suddely loose 'that' much grip..... and those lap times are set by folk pushing the ragged edge tryng to fall off!! On the public road, you should be NO WHERE ear those limits of adhesion......

So start by making sure tyres are good... check the pressures, and look at the suspension, and makes sure that dampers have new oil, and bushes aren't wobbling links about. Check the headrace bearings; check your brake pads, clean the brake calipers; grease the float mounts etc etc etc.... all basic serivce stuff.. make sure you have all you should AS standard.

On the road.... winter riding, more nigglesome than wet or icy roads, I find is the dark... so lights; check your headlamp, make sure its not adjusted high and blinding oncoming traffic likely to try run you off the road! Clean the lens; find some-where to stop a small squirty bottle of water and a rag so you can keepit clean when out and about... look at the tail lamp... make sure that brake lamps not 'dragging' especially f you 'rest' the lever when not braking..... and look at your indies.... they are useless to any-one if no-one can see them.. stubby inies may look cool in the car-park but they can be a ruddy liability on the road.... even more so LED indes that tend to be very directional.. great for blinding traffc imedietly infront of behind with thier orange brilliance, but folk from the side? The ones more likely to SMIDSY you often dont see a darn thing!

Then... slow down and get smooth! Smooth is swift is safe! With that headlamp adjusted down so it dont dazzle, change the mind set and rather than bemoaning you cat see where you are going, slow down and ride within the reach of the lamp....make space and make time to deal with the unexpected and make less unexpected to start with.. like the SMIDSY in the side turn! Dont assume they will see your indies when you decde to make a brisk over-take! They probably wont even see you, let alone the indies, even if you have stalked them out for best prominance! Hold back, think twice, wait till you are past and THEN think again, do you really need to over take?

All boring, no fun schitt, but, you no wanna fall off, you no wanna crack plastic or bend , THIS is how, as first course you offer defense against the possibility.....

Like the crash hat, safety comes fro using your head, not buying a fancy plastic pot and hiding your head in it!

That, like crash bungs or crash bars is the last line of defence when all else has failed, and its not a question of damage avoidance, but damage limitation......

So back to top... IF you are convinced you are gonna crash.... cut to the chase now, and rather than buyng crash bungs that may or may not save plastics and bend frames; join bupa... and go buy a set of cheap chinky replica fairings 'ready' for when you have crashed and you are tackling the wreckage...... after bupa patched you up.. OR re-think fro the top, and start by NOT believing you WILL crash, and rather than looking to buy schitt you hope may 'help' if you do.. use your head, change your thinking, and do all you can to NOT crash in the first place, starting with approach, and moving going through basic maintenance!

Its ALL in your approach, NOT your accessories.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Dweller]

Wow great replies, I understand what you mean about crashing and avoiding it. I haven’t crashed in 7 years but It’s always a possibility no matter the precautions.

You do make sense on spreading the force of an impact over a wider softer area better then a smaller area.

And with the rear sets just looking for a wider grippier peg, I have large feet so tend to find it awkward getting full contact on smaller pegs without slipping in colder wetter conditions.

Think I’ll try running it as it is and look at just replacing the pegs

[supZ]

Unfortunately tef is a little misinformed regarding his blurb on focusing the force of an impact.

The whole point of the crash bung is it not only protects your fairing in a low speed crash but it deforms and bends in a bigger crash preventing those forces from going directly into the frame. Also the nylon they're made out of is soft enough to deform.

If you topple over the force won't be high, and if you come off at speed the greater force will come from the sideways momentum.

Only time I can see force being directly channelled straight through the bung at any real amount is if your bike was dropped from a height perfectly sideways. Would be a freak turn of events if that ever happened.

In short, if your bike topples over at 0mph, the direct sideways impact force will be the same as if it was going 100mph and went down. In both cases it's still just the weight of the bike involved (plus rider).

This will be different if, lets say, you're t-boned but in that case your crash bungs are the least of your worries.

e.g.

These are my crash bungs after an 80+ mph low slide at cadwell many moons ago.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2432/3761620718_6a8536b926_b.jpg

As you can see the bolt is what took the brunt of the force, deforming and taking energy out of the impact. That's what they're designed to do.

The bike flipped up, cartwheeled and pretty much destroyed itself. No bungs are going to save the fairing from that impact; but what it did do is completely save the frame. Just had to bend the subframe back as the end crumpled but that bike served me for 3 more years as a trackbike with no problems at all. Engine, frame all completely protected. (being a steelie helped.. tough as old boots the old 600Fs)

Just to balance it out however, it's highly likely that the bungs were the cause of so much destruction as it's quite possible the bung hit the curbing on the edge of the track and that's what caused it to flip up. Can't know for sure but seemed a bit odd for the bike to do that after a run of the mill lowside.

For that (potential) reason I don't run bungs on my current trackbike (had stubby ones on my last one though). Race fairing is cheap to replace/patch up,

However, for the road. In the event of a low speed off or you drop it; you can do £100s of damage just to the fairing alone. Make's a lot of sense to run them on the road. In a higher speed crash your bike is going to take a lot of damage bungs or no, just down to additional road furniture (high curbs, lamp posts etc..) so it's more the 'oops' moments I'd recommend them for but to each his own.
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CBR954RR - Daily toy
CBR600RR - Trackbike

[Dweller]

Interesting my little tiny brain is trying to figure out what’s best now ha