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fuel stablizer needed or not ?

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sidewinder
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Joined: 24 Aug 2011
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 07 Oct 2017    Post subject: fuel stablizer needed or not ? Reply with quote
Will be laying the bike up for a while due to work.is it worth adding some fuel stablizer to it .for the colder months.bikes a k8 650 bandit ..
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 07 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes. Brim the tank (excludes oxygen, prevents condensation and rust) and add stabiliser. Run it for long enough to draw the stabilised fuel through the fuelling system.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Tracer1234
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Joined: 13 Sep 2014
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PostPosted: 03:37 - 08 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
No Fazer, your comment will not be needed here.
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Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15
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Bloggsy
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 08 Feb 2010
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 09 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
I laid a fazer up for 10 months recently it fired up with no problems, so in my opinion fuel stabilizer is a waste of money
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MattEMulsion
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Joined: 29 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 09 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
My advice would be to just brim the tank and not to worry about adding any fuel stabiliser. My bike gets laid up every winter like that and I've never had a problem come spring time.
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kramdra
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Joined: 28 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 09 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
No, instead drain the tank into your other bikes?! run until the carbs are dry, there is no fuel to go off. Water will not get in the tank unless its already leaking, and draining will tell you if theres any water in there. This will also top up the battery. Assuming no alarm it will last winter fine.
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 01:37 - 10 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
kramdra wrote:
No, instead drain the tank into your other bikes?! run until the carbs are dry, there is no fuel to go off. Water will not get in the tank unless its already leaking, and draining will tell you if theres any water in there. This will also top up the battery. Assuming no alarm it will last winter fine.


Water gets in as vapour in atmospheric air due to temperature changes during storage.
As a vessel cools it draws in air, the moisture in the air condenses on cold surfaces forming droplets.
The droplets are not re-vaporized so subsequent warm-cold cycles can produce a substantial quantity of water.
That is the same phenomena as employed in a solar still.

Yes brim the tank and add some Fuel stabilizer.
It is not vital but can/will help prevent the fuel un-mixing. (where aromatics separate and gels can form). But that may only be of significance for more extreme conditions.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 10 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
kramdra wrote:
No, instead drain the tank into your other bikes?! run until the carbs are dry, there is no fuel to go off. Water will not get in the tank unless its already leaking, and draining will tell you if theres any water in there. This will also top up the battery. Assuming no alarm it will last winter fine.


Nope. As MCN says, condensation forms on cold surfaces once it drops below the dew point of the surrounding air. Particularly surfaces with a high temperature conductance like metals and glass. We actually measured this in my kitchen when I was investigating a damp problem, it turns out the dew point was 13 degrees and the "damp" followed this temperature gradient on the wall. ie it was a condensation problem, not a damp problem.

In short, if you get condensation on the windows, you'll definately get it in the tank.

Corrosion (standard, ferric corrosion) requires oxygen and water. Even room air contains both oxygen and water vapour in all but the driest deserts. Leave a bit of bare metal exposed to the air in the UK and it WILL corrode.

Petrol is hydrophobic and as such, excludes both oxygen and water from the surface of the metal it's in contact with. If there are water droplets at the bottom of the tank they will start the corrosion process until the dissolved oxygen in the water is used up, then it will stop. The layer of petrol on top will prevent further oxygen saturation until it is agitated again.

So yes, brim-full tank. Or totally empty, dry and kept in the warm (over 13 degrees)
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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The last post was made 6 years, 193 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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