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KN-204 Oil Filter Recall

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Matt B
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PostPosted: 09:16 - 09 Oct 2017    Post subject: KN-204 Oil Filter Recall Reply with quote

Got this email from M&P this morning:

KN-204 OIL FILTER RECALL
WHY WE ARE TAKING THIS ACTION
K&N has discovered that in certain KN-204 oil filters manufactured between March 1, 2016 and September 30, 2016, oil can leak at the area where a nut (intended for use to remove the oil filter during routine oil changes) was welded to the bottom of the filter canister. If there is such a leak, oil could come into contact with the rear tire or rear brake of the motorcycle on which the filter was installed. If this were to occur, it could lead to a loss of control or a crash. Therefore, K&N is offering to replace the affected oil filters at no charge. This offer of a free replacement also applies to those covered KN-204 oil filters that were purchased for use in an application other than a motorcycle, such as an ATV or PWC (personal watercraft).

If you have one of the affected batch of oil filters, please photograph the date code and send the picture to us at sales@mandp.com and we will dispatch a replacement as soon as we can. You must include your name, address and phone number so that we are able to deal with your claim as efficiently as possible.


Affected batches - 3H, 4H, 5H, 6H, 7H, 8H or 9H
Items covered by this recall
This recall applies only to KN-204 oil filters manufactured between March 1, 2016 and September 30, 2016. The KN-204 oil filters covered by this recall have manufacturing date codes imprinted on the ends of the filters that contain as the second and third characters of the code the number/letter combinations of 3H, 4H, 5H, 6H, 7H, 8H or 9H, with the number corresponding to the month of the year (i.e., 3 for the month of March, 4 for the month of April, etc.) and the letter "H" representing the year 2016. KN-204 oil filters manufactured outside of that date range and which bear different manufacturing date codes are not covered by this recall. The date code can be found as shown in the photograph below. In this photo, the relevant character combination is "7H", which indicates the oil filter was manufactured in July 2016.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 09 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/applications.aspx?prod=KN-204
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 09 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've simply just stopped buying K&N oil filters or any that have a welded nut on the end.

Don't know if you saw or remember on my facebook last year, I posted a video of my oil filter pissing oil everywhere after it shat itself when accelerating hard at 60mph. The spotweld on the nut blew itself out.

Simple solution of avoidance for me is to just not buy an oil filter that has had any welding to the casing.
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Ed Case
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 09 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only ever buy OEM filters coz they're not that much dearer than the rest.
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Vracktal
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 10 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like how they glossed over how you're supposed to replace the filter without also having to fork out on an ahead-of-schedule oil change. :/

This seems to becoming a worrying trend with parts manufacturers. "Oh, sorry, we ballsed up this part so we'll replace it for free. Oh, you want compensation for all the other parts you have to replace when this part is swapped out? Or for garage fees/labour if you don't have the tools to do it yourself? Get fucked."
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 10 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happened to my mates one on his Triumph Tiger in July. It did shit oil all over the rear tyre. Luckily he stayed with it. They denied all knowledge at the time and accused him of overtightening it.

Could have been WAY worse. He was on a long, fast, sweeping downhill corner on the M90. Lucky not to a) Come off and b) Kill his engine. There was 50ml of oil left in it when he checked post recovery.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=100385
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:04 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
They denied all knowledge at the time and accused him of overtightening it.

Well, I'm sure they'll apologise now, right? Whistle
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 08:37 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Happened to my mates one on his Triumph Tiger in July. It did shit oil all over the rear tyre. Luckily he stayed with it. They denied all knowledge at the time and accused him of overtightening it.

Could have been WAY worse. He was on a long, fast, sweeping downhill corner on the M90. Lucky not to a) Come off and b) Kill his engine. There was 50ml of oil left in it when he checked post recovery.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=100385


He must have some recourse now ?
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 08:54 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Happened to my mates one on his Triumph Tiger in July. It did shit oil all over the rear tyre. Luckily he stayed with it. They denied all knowledge at the time and accused him of overtightening it.

Could have been WAY worse. He was on a long, fast, sweeping downhill corner on the M90. Lucky not to a) Come off and b) Kill his engine. There was 50ml of oil left in it when he checked post recovery.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=100385


Ouchity ouch. That could have been horrendous.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:25 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ed Case wrote:
Only ever buy OEM filters coz they're not that much dearer than the rest.


This,

The engine was designed and tuned to run OEM filters (oil/air), why put on it something that's more expensive and quite possibly shortens your engine lifetime. Because how do you achieve high flow of air/oil through a filter? Make it less restrictive = more crap gets where there should be none.

Not really an oil filter issue, but do you know what a grain of sand does, when it's traped between your car's wiper blade and the windshiled? The same thing happens to your engine cylinders. Wink
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:

Not really an oil filter issue, but do you know what a grain of sand does, when it's traped between your car's wiper blade and the windshiled? The same thing happens to your engine cylinders. Wink


Not really. The speeds and forces involved are much higher. Your grain of sand probably gets turned to glass on the first pass. I've seen an engine barrel with a gudgeon pin circlip effectively welded into the iron like a shadow, you couldn't feel the edge of it with your fingernail.

Obviously doesn't do it any good though.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
WANTED: Royal Enfield disc brake front end.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Not really. The speeds and forces involved are much higher. Your grain of sand probably gets turned to glass on the first pass. I've seen an engine barrel with a gudgeon pin circlip effectively welded into the iron like a shadow, you couldn't feel the edge of it with your fingernail.

Obviously doesn't do it any good though.


Could I make diamonds, throwing graphite into the intake of a running engine? Thinking
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:


Could I make diamonds, throwing graphite into the intake of a running engine? Thinking


Graphite is a high pressure lubricant. So probably not. It would probably burn though, or stop the plug sparking.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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bamt
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Because how do you achieve high flow of air/oil through a filter? Make it less restrictive = more crap gets where there should be none.


Not necessarily. For example, changing the pleating in a filter increases the surface area so increases flow without comprising the filtration. Putting in multiple stages of filtration (course first, then finer) stops the fine filter stage being blocked by big bits of crud. So high flow does not automatically mean poor filtration.

That's not to say any particular filters are better than OEM -many will be snake oil - but OEM do typically spec parts to a minimum "good enough" standard that can be improved upon. Whether you need to for filters is debatable.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 11 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not that I've tested anything, but K&N air filters ''failed'' several independent efficiency tests. This topic is several years old now.

I think this was one of the articles: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

I always stick to the OEM parts, as that's what the engine of my car/motorcycle was designed and tuned to work with. Also, manufacturers tend to use paper filters where it's convenient to do so. It's obivous that motorcycles with ram air intake and dirtbikes wouldn't work well with paper filters, as on such motorcycles the filters do get wet.

Also, I fabricated several foam filters for various motorcycles. A 1m² sheat of the filtration foam is less than £2. Cut the shape, use an adhesive, done. Again, not saying I did any testing, but the engines ran good after I was done, the mixture was perfect (carbureted engines), so tell me again, why are K&N filters so expesive? The R&D, brand?

TL;DR: I stick to the OEM stuff. None of my machines has/had high performance engine where a less restrictive filter would/could make a difference, but then, why running a filter at all, if I only wanted a few hours of high performance fun a month.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 08:53 - 12 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Not that I've tested anything, but K&N air filters ''failed'' several independent efficiency tests.


So that automatically means that the oil filters (not directly manufactured by K&N) are also poor? Big leap if you ask me.

OEM can be poor quality too, it really depends on how the filter has been specced and the company manufacturing it. This is a really old article http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml but, for exapmle, the guy deems the OEM Yamaha filter to be unacceptable/very poor quality. If OEM is so whizz bang awesome fantastic winner winner chicken dinner why do we end up fitting so many non OEM parts to our bikes? Tyres, brake pads, calipers, suspension etc...
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haroman666
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 12 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt B wrote:
So that automatically means that the oil filters (not directly manufactured by K&N) are also poor? Big leap if you ask me.

OEM can be poor quality too, it really depends on how the filter has been specced and the company manufacturing it. This is a really old article http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml but, for exapmle, the guy deems the OEM Yamaha filter to be unacceptable/very poor quality. If OEM is so whizz bang awesome fantastic winner winner chicken dinner why do we end up fitting so many non OEM parts to our bikes? Tyres, brake pads, calipers, suspension etc...


OEM will also spec a single part with regards to cost of the entire assembly (bike), so may possibly compromise on quality/performance. Where as a company like K&N, whose sole trade is filtration systems, don't have that consideration. Their costs are literally R+D and manufacture/distribution of a single component.
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jnw010
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PostPosted: 11:00 - 12 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neutral Brilliant. Now I have to either lift my bike up or lie under it to check the date on the K&N oil filter. End of last summer is about when I did the oil change too, so almost certainly in that batch.
On the plus side it is almost due an oil change, so free filter if I survive the ride home, and subsequent rides until I get a replacement and oil.

I like the nut on the bottom - it makes it so much easier to remove the recessed filter.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 13 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image//ae235?src=ae235/34733_P&$prodImageMedium$

I use a pair of these £12 jobbies from Screwfix, purely because access to the filter on the GSX1250 is tight behind the downpipes and I can't get my fat hands in there.

On anything else with easy access you should be able to just spin it off by hand. They go on hand tight (20 Nm at most) with a nice smear of oil on the o-ring so shouldn't really need the nut anyway.
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jnw010
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 13 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have several oil filter removal tools, none of which will reach up inside the recessed bowels of my bike to successfully remove the filter. I could buy the specific filter cup, but I've had one of those slip before as well. I also have one of those three pronged cog tightening ones that just crushed a filter in place.
I always fit filters hand tight with a smear of oil, but over time and heat cycles they seem to get tighter.

Anyway, I managed to get my phone down there to take a picture and all the markings have been blasted off by road dirt / flaking black paint on the filter itself.
So, no free replacement for me. Sad
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