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Falco
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PostPosted: 04:53 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Coolant Fuckery Reply with quote

Bike (CB500s) overheated badly during Friday morning filtering and had to pull over to let it cool off (didn't even have to do that in the height of summer). Was fine when out of traffic but ran hotter than usual rest of the way in and back out.

Fan checked, reservoir looked about right, I haven't found any obvious leaks. On opening up the coolant in the system was so low that I could open thermostat housing without having to drain it (thermostat also fine).

Easy fix right? Well, after topping up and running for 5 minutes to let air make it's way out, the reservoir was almost overflowing. Removed almost as much as I refilled by. Thinking

10 miles of slow (20-30 mph) riding around town this evening and it *seems* to be behaving itself, but the commute will be the acid test of this.

What is going on here? If the coolant is going into the reservoir when the bike heats up, why was the system empty when cold? and why did running it push an equal amount of coolant back into the reservoir?
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P.
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PostPosted: 07:18 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure the thermostat is ok?
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doggone
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PostPosted: 08:07 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the fan definitely on when it gets hot.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 09:47 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Is the fan definitely on when it gets hot.


That ^^^

Check that the thermal switch cuts the fan in and that the fan actually runs.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could also be a blown head gasket pressurising the water jacket with exhaust gas and forcing the coolant out through the overflow.

You can sometimes feel this happening if you squeeze the coolant hose and rev the engine. If it gets firmer when you rev the engine or they are rock-hard anyway, it's probably not good news.

It can also be a lot more subtle and only happens at certain rev speeds.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ride around for at least 20 mins and check coolant level from the rad cap filler neck, if its disappearing the headgasket has gone. Equally saying that if it doing was stinkwheel said then it's also likely to be HG failure.

However do check the obvious that the fan is working.

Source: I have had many bikes die this way.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the radiator cap, it should seal the system properly. I'm not sure what pressure the CB500 engine runs the cooling system at, but it sure is higher than the atmospheric pressure, to move the boiling point of the coolant further above 100°C.

This brings me to air in the system, bleed it.

Also, if what Stinkwheel says is happening, you might going to see some bubbles forming, with distinctive smell, under the radiator cap and/or the expansion tank. I've seen this on a car engine, motorcycle engines should be the same.

This kind of stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkrsyaMDuxM
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ADSrox0r
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lad that sits next to me at work had the very same thing, same bike. He replaced all manner of things till it turned out it was a blown head gasket.
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Chris45
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Could also be a blown head gasket pressurising the water jacket with exhaust gas and forcing the coolant out through the overflow.


Agreed. Water would be boiling off as steam and overpressurising the system, hence why it's all coming out. Looks like a head job.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the replies.

Paddy. wrote:
Sure the thermostat is ok?


doggone wrote:
Is the fan definitely on when it gets hot.


Islander wrote:
doggone wrote:
Is the fan definitely on when it gets hot.


That ^^^

Check that the thermal switch cuts the fan in and that the fan actually runs.


Yeah fan and thermostat tested, both working as intended.

stinkwheel wrote:
Could also be a blown head gasket pressurising the water jacket with exhaust gas and forcing the coolant out through the overflow.

You can sometimes feel this happening if you squeeze the coolant hose and rev the engine. If it gets firmer when you rev the engine or they are rock-hard anyway, it's probably not good news.

It can also be a lot more subtle and only happens at certain rev speeds.


Any particular coolant hose or do all of them get like that?

cb1rocket wrote:
ride around for at least 20 mins and check coolant level from the rad cap filler neck, if its disappearing the headgasket has gone. Equally saying that if it doing was stinkwheel said then it's also likely to be HG failure.

However do check the obvious that the fan is working.

Source: I have had many bikes die this way.


I don't think it has a radiator cap, just a general filler cap (right under the bloody tank of course Evil or Very Mad) I'll have a look after the commute tomorrow/Wednesday.

RhynoCZ wrote:
Check the radiator cap, it should seal the system properly. I'm not sure what pressure the CB500 engine runs the cooling system at, but it sure is higher than the atmospheric pressure, to move the boiling point of the coolant further above 100°C.

This brings me to air in the system, bleed it.

Also, if what Stinkwheel says is happening, you might going to see some bubbles forming, with distinctive smell, under the radiator cap and/or the expansion tank. I've seen this on a car engine, motorcycle engines should be the same.

This kind of stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkrsyaMDuxM


The system was bled when I topped up. Is there any easy way to check the pressure cap is sealing properly?

It seems that a blow head gasket is a likely culprit. What is the difficulty of replacing it? The furthest I've had the bike apart is the cams out when I was doing the valve clearances. Does taking the head itself off entail much work beyond that (the haynes suggests not, but they never show it being done in frame so I don't entirely trust them).

In the meantime, would it kill the bike to run it with semi regular top ups in coolant if I keep the temp below the danger level while riding? I'm on something of a time crunch for the next few weeks but I can switch to the train if it would damage the bike.
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's pretty significant. I'd not chance rising it and risk overheating and lunching the head.

I have "fixed" a car that was consuming water with one of those dodgy head gasket repair in a bottle things which worked for another 2 years.

Replacing it is more than what you've done but unsure if it can be done in the frame on a CB, doesn't look too tight in terms.of pics online so probably possible. Quicker and easier on a bench though.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
It's pretty significant. I'd not chance rising it and risk overheating and lunching the head.

I have "fixed" a car that was consuming water with one of those dodgy head gasket repair in a bottle things which worked for another 2 years.

Replacing it is more than what you've done but unsure if it can be done in the frame on a CB, doesn't look too tight in terms.of pics online so probably possible. Quicker and easier on a bench though.


Cheers Paddy. Train it is (after it's one trip on Wednesday) then.

For the price of a new gasket (£45) it seems like I might as well replace rather than mess about with a repairing it.

I feel like it should be possible, once you get the valve cover off (and manoeuvred out) there was plenty of space for messing about, so the head should be liftable, even if it can't be got out of the frame.
Unfortunately I can't remove it from the frame, I lack the tools, the space and there is a seized engine mounting bolt, all of which stand in the way. It's in frame or bust.

Timing is shit but oh well, another part of maintenance that won't be such a terrifying barrier the next time I have to do it.
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Chris45
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Unfortunately I can't remove it from the frame, I lack the tools, the space...


Kitchen Smile Handy for the cuppa's and there will be plenty of them required to. Tools? Dad,brother, cousins, long forgotten uncles, mates? Get phoning. We've all been in this situation before m8, yeah it fucking galling, hated it, but the bike aint gonna repair itself. I often find plenty of swearing helps too.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 23 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris45 wrote:
Quote:
Unfortunately I can't remove it from the frame, I lack the tools, the space...


Kitchen Smile Handy for the cuppa's and there will be plenty of them required to. Tools? Dad,brother, cousins, long forgotten uncles, mates? Get phoning. We've all been in this situation before m8, yeah it fucking galling, hated it, but the bike aint gonna repair itself. I often find plenty of swearing helps too.


Laughing Fortunately close examination of the haynes reveals a sentence that specifically claims it can be done with the engine in frame. Is this the truth? Only time will tell. Gasket is ordered and my weekend entirely accounted for Crying or Very sad Especially looking forward to when the exhaust studs snap Thumbs Up
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Falco
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PostPosted: 02:12 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

A thought has just occurred to me before I start the faff of this repair.

What are the causes of head gasket failure? I have read that overheating can do it, but the bike has never overheated before and is a cool running bike.
I was not under the impression that head gaskets were "consumables". Could it just be old?

My main question is: is there some other problem I should be hunting for, before I end up doing this again 200 miles down the road?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 08:22 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Falco wrote:
A thought has just occurred to me before I start the faff of this repair.

What are the causes of head gasket failure? I have read that overheating can do it, but the bike has never overheated before and is a cool running bike.
I was not under the impression that head gaskets were "consumables". Could it just be old?

My main question is: is there some other problem I should be hunting for, before I end up doing this again 200 miles down the road?


Yes, the head gaskets are consumables. Some engines and/or users eat them quicker than others. I think it's due to all the heat cycles that happen when you start a cold engine, warm it up and then let it cool down again + people use wrong coolant for certain engines. I replaced the head gasket on a engine that has never overheated and had the gasket fitted in the factory. So no human (I'm looking at you, Fazer) error when mounting it. In fact every single gasket and seal (piston rings included) in your engine are consumables.

Most of the consumables of this kind deteriorate due to age, so regardless of the use. I own a 22 years old car, so it is about the time to check everything twice and replace what requires it.

What to check while you have the head on the bench?
1) Visual inspection of the head, cams, valves = any excesive wear should be addresed (not expensive)

2) Valve seats = remove the camshafts, so the valves are closed. Leave the spark plugs in, turn the head upside down and pour some petrol into the ''bowls'', none should leak through. But, you didn't mention any issues of this sort, so there's no need for this.
*Note: Make sure you don't loose the valve shims.

3) Check the head is not twisted = you're going to need a very narrow (EDIT: Sorry, I meant straight, me English no well again) piece of metal and a feeler gauge (check youtube for tutorial) If the head is twisted, give it your local metal worker to skim it (not expensive)

4) Upon instalation, unless the procedure requires it, do not use any silicone! Use the torque wrench to fit the head (once again, I'm looking at you, Fazer). I'm not sure about the torqure figgures on your engine, but the car one I did required a huge amounts of it, that you wouldn't put there if you didn't know. This particular car engine requires you to literally stretch the bolts (consumables). Not your case, I suppose, but check the service manual, just to make sure.
*Also: Make sure the mating surfaces are clean.

5) Doing the valve clearences and checking the timing chain (+tension) at this point would be adviceable. Double check the timing (I'm looking at you, Fazer).

-----------------
After all that, take it easy for the first initial miles.
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Last edited by RhynoCZ on 19:37 - 24 Oct 2017; edited 2 times in total
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 13:11 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before stripping the engine I would recommend getting one of the test kits.

It will waste some time waiting for it to arrive but will confirm if its the head gasket.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris45 wrote:
Quote:
Unfortunately I can't remove it from the frame, I lack the tools, the space...


Kitchen Smile Handy for the cuppa's and there will be plenty of them required to. Tools? Dad,brother, cousins, long forgotten uncles, mates? Get phoning. We've all been in this situation before m8, yeah it fucking galling, hated it, but the bike aint gonna repair itself. I often find plenty of swearing helps too.


Yes good idea. Just after getting married I decided to spray paint a frame in the kitchen. I mean, what's the problem? I'd been doing shit like that for years.

You see that's about the time I learnt that that adorable sweet loving woman I married had the propensity to turn into something resembling Godzilla when you left the outline of a frame in spray paint on her kitchen floor. Embarassed
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slinging another engine in would probably work out cheaper and quicker than doing a head gaskets. Rebuilding a 4t engine is a fools game unless it’s rare or special.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

That said, it's a twin.

Moreover, it's a honda twin from the era where they were making bikes that were designed to be taken apart. Toss of a coin if changing out the head gasket or engine swap is the bigger job.

I'd say it is a moderately busy Sunday for a reasonably competant amateur mechanic to swap out the head gasket on a CB500. If I was doing it on the wifes bike I'd expect to start after breakfast and be road testing it before dinner.

Biggest iffy bit will be getting the exhaust studs off.

Tools wise, you don't need anything too fancy. A 3/8 drive socket set and some half decent screwdrivers from memory (use the bike toolkit screwdriver, it looks flimsy but fits the screw heads) Other than a torque wrench for the head bolts you'll need to fabricate a little key-type tool to lock the camchain tensioner back while you refit it (I cut one out of a tuna can lid with tip-snips). There's a template in the workshop manual.

My top tip would be to make sure you measure the tappet clearances BEFORE taking anything off so you know if you'll need any shims when you reassemble and be meticuous about keeping the buckets and shims for each valve so you can put them back on the same one. I have a little tray with compartments in it but a big egg box is also good. If you need tappets, you'll have to get those in before you can fully reassembe (but you can do most of the job).

Also take digital photos from all angles at each stage so you know where things go back (like cable routing).
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Chris45
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Yes good idea. Just after getting married I decided to spray paint a frame in the kitchen. I mean, what's the problem? I'd been doing shit like that for years.

You see that's about the time I learnt that that adorable sweet loving woman I married had the propensity to turn into something resembling Godzilla when you left the outline of a frame in spray paint on her kitchen floor.


Laughing Laughing Laughing

And the lesson was? Think quickly and always have an excuse handy.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys.

RhynoCZ wrote:
Good Advice


Cheers for the tip on the head warpage checking, the valves and shims should be fine (all done ~6k miles ago but I'll do a visual check when they are out.

sickpup wrote:
Before stripping the engine I would recommend getting one of the test kits.

It will waste some time waiting for it to arrive but will confirm if its the head gasket.


This is a great idea. Checking after it had cooled after the test run showed the coolant level in the reservoir had risen from just below the min mark to a couple of cm over the max, so for whatever reason, the coolant system is still over-pressurising, but it'll do no harm to check.

stinkwheel wrote:
Interesting stuff.


As I say, I've had it as far as the cams out and the manual doesn't show much beyond that to get the head off so it's mostly known territory + I have the tools for that, which looks to be sufficient for getting the head off. Valves were done ~6K miles ago, so I don't anticipate any issues there.
Exhaust studs look deeply suspect so It'll be a dose of plusgas and the impact driver for them, right off the bat.

GT200Fan79 wrote:
Slinging another engine in would probably work out cheaper and quicker than doing a head gaskets. Rebuilding a 4t engine is a fools game unless it’s rare or special.

I have failed to find a good working order engine for £37, plus the seized engine mounting bolt would need to be addressed, so (in my case at least) the calculation might be somewhat different.

Polarbear wrote:
Yes good idea. Just after getting married I decided to spray paint a frame in the kitchen. I mean, what's the problem? I'd been doing shit like that for years.

You see that's about the time I learnt that that adorable sweet loving woman I married had the propensity to turn into something resembling Godzilla when you left the outline of a frame in spray paint on her kitchen floor. Embarassed


Yup, done that. Stripped brake caliper on kitchen table, escaping brake fluid ate the varnish off top of housemates grandmothers table. Don't work on the table anymore.
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Paulf
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I have the same problem. From what I understand check coolant for air bubbles when running is one of the signs of a failed head gasket. Beginning to think I have a blown head gasket. Honda 125 pantheon with identical problem to op.
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 00:44 - 25 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paulf wrote:
I think I have the same problem. From what I understand check coolant for air bubbles when running is one of the signs of a failed head gasket. Beginning to think I have a blown head gasket. Honda 125 pantheon with identical problem to op.


What year pantheon? Was it recently rebuilt?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 25 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Falco wrote:

As I say, I've had it as far as the cams out and the manual doesn't show much beyond that to get the head off so it's mostly known territory + I have the tools for that, which looks to be sufficient for getting the head off. Valves were done ~6K miles ago, so I don't anticipate any issues there.
Exhaust studs look deeply suspect so It'll be a dose of plusgas and the impact driver for them, right off the bat.


Yes, not much more beyond the cams out. Certainly nothing complex. Draining coolant, carbs off, exhausts off and undo head nuts.

On the plus side, if an exhaust stud lets go, you have the head off and can deal with it on a bench. On the CB500, there are a couple of "blanks" in the casting at 90 degrees to the exhaust studs. If you land up with a stubbornly stuck, snapped and corroded-in exhaust stud, it's a comparatively easy job (when the head is off) to cut them off flush then drill and tap new holes in the "blanks" for new studs.
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