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Any enfield experts in the house? New project.

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 Topic moved: from The Workshop to Show & Tell by stinkwheel (26 Aug 2017 - 21:34)
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 03 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been at it again this weekend. That primary chain never recovered, it's in the bin. I'm using the one off the other engine and will get a new one for the "hot" engine. Every chance I'll be using a different engine sprocket anyway.

So. Gearbox sprocket firmly attached and bolted down means I can re-attach the primary chaincase.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5p5FIh5haAV0zsUupwa4lSVhIJ6EESYLeNiXEOt7-wZgGlcZv5bt_PmDTIH09OLNRW3YK5S_7EKxcgQ8iYPFAPn6Ts0X_t87XdclXo5AvDp-O8hGg9WGBR0E_Vts1vw0b-spO-3w4w=w1176-h882-no

The duplex primary drive chain is endless, you fit it over the engine sprocket and clutch basket then slide those onto their respective splined shafts.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z2mO2qUeSTV-W_hlIA47Qf4KXqpX-DpeD7nGKYsL_Gz_MmAgxw39dh9HBRWPBfqBI1x8lpkwp2f942kkJQ_Ob5e-YmxzDhWPa1v5x-hK6WsAUwBuqDDMFU6ANayCv2CULx-SaeiIxQ=w1176-h882-no

Then insert the primary tensioner. The one fitted previously had the chain WAY too tight, there should be a little slack in it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4PUeEiacQ16pc0N2Lbch0MIgYNiIOqISgxbcKlNWcKGwsO5cPHJxVUkXeiCW5ObmkqgEL5K99SCpsquXx66yDPxJR9nAJuIzKvioD3Oh1lav_KjIkWcTZXFg5Y4cBEq74NI9GbeZhA=w1176-h882-no

Then clutch plates in, not forgetting the end section of push-rod. The others can be fed in from the otehr end. There are four different types of clutch plate, they all have to go in in the right order and the right way round. You'll notice an odd bit of rust and muck about here. I'm not terribly bothered. This section sits in a bath of automatic transmission fluid and it doesn't circulate with the engine oil like it does in a modern engine. I'll do a short interval change, all the little bits of rust will have disappeared by then.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7ZK8mfIM2_hBkD8U8Xmg2dVeae0HaaTQ87kvOEWoeFxHCR8xQkYet3jWCOEdFSkAhKUb_lzQKhJ-xIbCzz9HBM8Ob5vZk3_XhlF7UamCyU9irRo5SWsLFv3OuNpNJCocPoDMjfAUew=w1176-h882-no

Total of six springs and an additional pressure plate on top of this. These clutchs are adequate for the power output. I'll need more for my hot engine or it'll slip.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H6bzWkWCX6Fj6qQ_LTGs8ppR5elbJ6AKT-cnKYz7kdF77uFbjUDseZqqQGD3wPYRTHcQy5Lrvedjy-1Rr5SBHhZOMVBIxf8ish31_seUCx3J6uJ9OegaJui08_LHDotdAbW5QaUTBA=w1176-h882-no

Ok, about time for the distributor. A note on this. Someone had fucked up the auto-advance unit by bodging a flywheel weight off a different bike on by filing one of the pins it moves on. This was a horrible fuckup and could only be fixed by replacing rthe entire points cam and auto-advance. It was subtle, took a bit of finding and was very annoying. Yet another fault that would have totally prevented fuckwits engine from running properly. I may post more pictures on the subject when I get my other camera back.

Anyway, There is often play on the dizzy shaft. You can either shim them or tap the iron bush out of the housing slightly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OI5h5O7RNzliWqD20VA3fjxuuXRfiBu5q8I7ipMz6YTMJMJ0kfr_NvIYRTmgrJuecTnpHpS1tj93gzQntZ92fhdhWRXCmO9EhhdHCtql-MBqr1QQMvoKck9ZDv8Ob_hmIiUq2u68Vw=w662-h882-no

So the end of the bush sticks out on the timing side.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nJcDIvKTWahKQnmPLvT9j3qImeZ7JebezU-GtdRA_PvYuCLmeqXdg6l4XeJL8oSKLBZdt0KEuLogIRX8PFlcYhQhd1ZFDAbDlGuZP9diXxm1may2Wk8QAPbfZx8iKLiwqU-49S0txw=w1176-h882-no

I've rotated the engine to TDC on the ignition stroke and placed the dizzy shaft in so the points are just opening with the backing plate central. static timing is 0.8mm before TDC so this should put it roughly in the centre of its adjustment. This is something to set right now, it's a total PITA to alter later if you run out of adjustment.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nJcDIvKTWahKQnmPLvT9j3qImeZ7JebezU-GtdRA_PvYuCLmeqXdg6l4XeJL8oSKLBZdt0KEuLogIRX8PFlcYhQhd1ZFDAbDlGuZP9diXxm1may2Wk8QAPbfZx8iKLiwqU-49S0txw=w1176-h882-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kzSGZ1_ak8HJnNi0pq_ZnNol5jTkML12emHeL1UL7cg4aO-X_fF1x3763R_PRiaYFPR-WCLshmBeJVVK7FIK9CGd06lillIf2fSOW4r1JYumZ38tC0Z7X1oZP4BuljqF831hZ5I1LQ=w1176-h882-no

Remember that bush sticking out. It's now impossible to to rotate the dizzy shaft because the bush is binding on the back of the pinnion. You give it a single sharp tap with a mallet to seat the bush slightly and it's free to rotate with next to no lateral play and no messing with shims.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h9mg7isKQ8nxbOsGUt_lK4GLNHDxAmmY2vMyors92Wxj66FxJ64_RUE8eOrFv0JqO_Xonyte_EKzdkKfWgzmUjx0Fcwz8lp-aMDEF-aSadm1k8Enf-m9AvNV94O_wzcX9E_zcwl6yw=w662-h882-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 04 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. Tappets need setting. Locknut and adjuster. They are zero clearance so they should be set so the pushrod can be spun but not lifted. No measuring tools required, just 2 spanners and a pair of fingers. The disc on the exhaust one is for a valve lifter mounted in the tappet cover.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WD0A_brCRUtcxAu_0PdWN52ACulg7fG_usRgoMeDIexUX7CLirARkzkFQP8VOJ_YqjyhgC_UdOvN5q0P-hotlCJ8xQZJbjGUJuFxih4o8LMxH1OdMfEoMIwPP3SWbzPGcDS6DYMlag=w815-h611-no

So tappets set, timing pinnion fitted, idler gears in place. Timing side is done.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QyTAEiVMT0bC5yBaRSEBKik4EMU6alUP9I_tR9BkEICG-zbbrhXvkxgEwO464vQz3c_oQWrIHBAS19CxukYDJH7wasrjAg-GSGEnqLJCtvsJMIbwebuR8dPbhBZvCUKk1agvh-dXeA=w815-h611-no

The cover needs to go onto the worm drive, I like to turn it over as I push the cover into place. There are a coule of oilways in this cover that need keeping an eye on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CVfe2rTBEVa53dj-tgPi--Zzs2Xnc1T6v9cFO9z97nbkFCk79_W3SKFYmqRG2odS8WY3xq4e5tRqTT-mmQX0brCIBqFV1-6CaAt57eRY29HHJ7bTXN351OsIj9dR_IL82BhDigZkbQ=w815-h611-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ns-ybgRz1j1bHiF2y1fdyn9iycfViTeRbfYcx3_D-NTXYkp7qrGC3erD3o_cMVv3qe_e8vqRsXQsZ-geJgixXeDUGmFvdyq4UG38zSWTVnn8lLn-Xn60Cm60dMcp3t0u5FkAXlPYQw=w815-h611-no

The oil filter is pretty rudimentary. That said, having one at all was unusual back when this engine was invented. I've put a "packing piece" in since I seem to have several. It's a slug of alloy that reduces the volume of oil in the filter housing which in theory speeds up the process of oil circulation (normally the oil has to fill that chamber before it can be pumped into the crank). The filter gets soaked in oil beforte fitting.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A3eXJBvIfvdOAncFvr5l89qNqgm_QgyyI-w1mhkGlVC5-eGCJlof1y452NUhFtX95TZ-R-UYJt6t1hE86qVvz91Egr4D69aPASQCUpruzaG-9btoxFJd0CkSCglLO3h6sBV0oCYR5g=w815-h611-no

Filter cover on. The hex bolt you can see at the bottom of this picture is the quill bolt that feeds the crank. I've left it loose for now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cXp35oWPqvPfPtVOQNZQyWK1Bta7tJ6HY2kq8wBIvPlqAQb4KzQ11DaRDiqsZMzqfDGgyOm_cdp71oaitEA91h9_twj_eacQQF0SWwjLmFLupKHdVFw786p1B8FMEATZbojbjKzgZw=w815-h611-no

Oil in. Mainly in the oil tank but a bit splashed around the top-end and timing chest doesn't go amiss. I'm using the cheapest oil I can find. It's going to be changed shortly following a "hard" run in to bed down the piston rings. Effectively a flushing oil.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yXOuqQ0Qbv79SpYk0yixYTPIC171K-kfwYJa8hpESq_ovhVyzjlP2TGiQ7Dq3KBfxVVciyRjVxAycKBdSXipa59dLS84i75dk84hSDkLTBfxfX99la_40TMxQvkBwTY1CRP2MqhLMg=w815-h611-no

Oil pipe for ther top-end oil feed fitted. Again, left the banjos a little loose so I can see when oil reaches this point.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J-st0caOXeMR27sVUJYXJgtrKLtd98kUbwk5fE6imjyX6a_Ivj-3pMs48hUqRH8od6aN40owycG3wqjnyBWH2zOqOH-h7BxVl9Sxa2tuIXvPmvBlauEeCgk7eRaHgSP7GSRuLsteKQ=w815-h611-no

It's worth having a reasonable idea how the oiling on these bikes works. There is an oil tank cast into the engine. Oil comes out of the bottom of this through a hole into the oil feed pump. It gets pumped through the filter chamber, up an oilway and through the quill bolt. It passes along the timing shaft of the crank, up an oilway in the flywheel and along the crankpin to the big end.

After the big end, the oil drops into the sump whewre it passes through anotherhole and is picked up by the scavenge pump (which is much bigger than the feed pump, there is never more than 30ml of oil in the crankcase if it's working properly). It gets pumped up through the oil pipes to the cylinder head, in through the rocker blocks and out round the edges of them into the rocker area. It then runs back down the pushrod tunnels into the timing chest. When this is filled near the top, it runs back out into the oil tank through a small hole.

Thios whole process can take more than 3 minutes at 1500rpm! Shocked

As such, I like to prime it first by putting the bike in gear and pushing it around to turn the engine over. FIrst sign of the feed pump working is oil oozing round the quill bolt. Sign of the scavenge pump working is oil round the banjos.

Didn't happen this time. I took the timing cover off and noticed there was no oil coming through the oilway from the oil tank. It should empty through here with the cover off. I forced some oil up this with a syringe and it started flowing freely. Must have been airlocked.

Still wasn't getting any at the banjos and I was struggling to force oil along the timing shaft with a syringe. I had a bit of a panic that the crank had been assembled wrong. Some advice from the owners club put my mind at reast. Apparently there is a pressure relief valve in the timing shaft on my other bullet but not this one. It takes a fair bit of force to get cold oil along it, running the engine is the only way. A flush through with some thinner oil (ATF) got oil flowing through the crank.

I'd do this before assembly next time!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 04 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

This bike had an AVL coil "fitted". When I say fitted, I mean bodged. This head has been twin-sparked so it needs the twin coil fitting. I'm also bgoing to re-instate the original air filter system because people like to buy standard bikes.

So the coil has been fitted in the toolbox which normally houses the air filter. Using choc-blocks! *shudders*. Pale

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qkK9-pLkjyx_XBppEr8NXN5RuveBfnxUNt8Bf0vOKFlDyNjxlDKEWW7j5cawcQM9tEpNm7SvLz39WWq9Dh1ihL6azOT3SmmHM4EZsXRQz3rf7usMvs8VbEWD0eZ0rQFZbcGcdK6k6Q=w815-h611-no

Coil bolted to back mudguard where it's supposed to be.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OvGaCCBuLagQ65WjXN52Zb3Wl-TJUmNsmnDqf4p4Ppvwb9SdjPast_0isRXMjQV2Glegz1SfRD5HQ3DwXRuYhwXi0RZ2mew6LQbk3KVY0GO_zz1IwqgKOsN7CKuNOyTMMRYKAlzPlw=w459-h611-no

Choc-block-ectomy complete!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BYTQnwNhXJdqcCbAdtJrfP4DJaml6snGxOq37dsSZKaXy_oDP2mzsfyFhU8vRWZJ6Z7u6Q6gkKBI2VppebN63UyJPMBxMiJnF0S3TTwEU3Cpy6aOBrVC2g225DW6YXPmxTY9_3vlZw=w815-h611-no

Air filter rubber attached to back of toolbox.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XxJSp-LfbCw9fhvButAiDg79EoE1wy_5AmW4ti6tyY_WP3xBQZQOeQxePgOAcr2YAAZdKJS9Uh-fINBjABciH5MyYmPIpSqtPMlocQm04TAArwi-4lmVDY6OU25U_1M4mMmI5OGNQQ=w815-h611-no

Choice of two carbs. The one this engine came fitted with and the one that came with the Indian take-away. The one the bike came fitted with looks a lot cleaner. However, opening it up shows that fuckwit cleaned the outside of it but hasn't looked at the inside which was full of watery sludge and corrosion. It has also been jetted to suit a pod air filter.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K5S6S_plTNhHe0EgvbCXs-rIftM5LrfpKmLc80L77wali4PL5ARcenxFh7yRDuDjc15gJh8fKgziBWl3F0FoBmFJIxl2Bra_-Nka5MJWUSxePwv2Dp4EvUUy71wE7CA0LeC-pL_3Lw=w815-h611-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c2L9L3UVGJ0XD8XU_FNG8nDslAGDAYUXu9xa-H3q9ROPeBGa5H-XZHqDCqQwvODFRMseMSX_ra3hQfrwSzIaa5HqiLlvH8XRdrekY8CytUexptJl_BR-xrwiu7i42f2BDlO7CpWIGA=w815-h611-no

So. I've given that carb a cursory clean and a spray down with GT85 to stop it deteriorating further.

The muckier looking carb was actually a lot cleaner on the inside. Got a doing over in the ultrasonic (hot, soapy water) then GT85 then solvent. Came up lovely!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_gnC324G3EjVMMaOXCn_w-dlxtMqg-EIG4uxPSTrlFCfvCDWyZh3e07NVovJ4GknIViy-iF3wxz5otHP4xaTnclYKnXiVp929g7RBvA0HstrpisGSIsnbppdgEulSOsYymWi-FQImw=w459-h611-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6xTJd739Q5rIdFMfTTm5Swzk3doFQCbtxVDJB1jgMVAO0tRWZy54-5RkrqdxXhwtqMgC8RVwEVhaX1YAQY-H72DkGWgx2p9dy2Ii4AJgjxRU2cKpRL139LZpFbv4icxhK1rpn0XH-Q=w459-h611-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UGYNd0-zmpOqvDwOxgwu0ZVVT_es3rYaEpPeb4LKkmowvUjcgnxOQ60Oa5UcVWk2Rp1_M4Qrgb73zJctENosTijV9qcZInpNyPPClntCTh7KCov2nDnwn-WersqYw8cTtGjLVg1EHA=w815-h611-no

Leaky float thought. Previous owner has tried to compensate by reducing the float height. New valve and seat arrived today.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 04 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahem. Great success!

https://youtu.be/MakcRVCpgmY

Still needs a lot of setting up and the charging system putting back on but it always inspires confidence.

I'm pretty impressed by my timing and carb setup. For a rough guess, that's a pretty steady idle!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2008
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 04 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's one of the things about Enfields that appeals to me - the fact that they'll run if "close enough" Thumbs Up
____________________
Chances are quite high you are not in my Monkeysphere, and I don't care about you. Don't take it personally.
Currently : Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition, 28 of 200
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 08 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time to put the charging system back on I think. The rotor is already in place on its keyed shaft, the stator rests on spacers slid over three studs. Fuckwit strikes again, The studs fitted are imperial threaded and slightly too wide for the spacers. Presumably 1950's. Had to rob studs off the other motor (it's gettin a non-standard stator anyway).

It seems like an easy job, just bolt it on but it's not. You have to get a consistant gap all the way round or the rotor rubs on the stator. The holes are slightly oversize to allow a bit of "wiggle room". Standard way fo doing this is to fiddle stuff about, checking gaps with feeler guages until it's right. Thing is, feeler gauges are steel and the rotor is highly magnetic...

So you need an alternator shimming device!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rYsGnQ8EZFxOEVTo5RJ3wyUrkywhx03YfZv8ozJXNtC-NFbBGHipAl13PlwZ9JDJtTLBSj16YniDvspb5i555p7l6Vtnc3JRLoJ3DUK2Pbxu0J5UCQE-lBd-xLsQDLXbea4dunJACQ=w1176-h882-no

Yes, a piece of laminated paper exactly the same length as the circumference of the rotor. WOrks out roughly the same width as the air gap is meant to be. Wrap it round, slide the stator on, bolt it down, remove the paper and you're done.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5SqY-A_J-txf6ITtBpfkePh_D_ic__hPoiCkiPwa8BKj2Q2tG4WP2Yhli8aZjddUhbeZOd4_ktOOJolCjNhO9268fQnrd8r6ClrFTZ_ke5_gDrGEIxTaHZJEG-Ue--BL1C6qkAXBMA=w662-h882-no

The wiring for the stator was all manky and wouldn't go together correctly so I replaced the connectors with new ones. For reference people. THIS is the kind of thing I want to be finding on my second hand bikes, not bits of PVC tape and choc blocks!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zyz4UlTW1AIN14XeSeQzzWsBuft24d2VBOo0MLqRJZ-SluMTCZy9KY55qfpyr-LJU2tTu0Mb6PZFv75mUBwqjkjTOuD98bmQZIvrPnBWKmzpMb7lnkuyAhbFMLAkQxy5ugB12ZmF0g=w1176-h882-no

Connected up, a bit of a fight to get her started and hey-presto, a working charging system. You can tell it's charging immediately because of the ammeter on the dash moving into the green which indicates charge going into the battery.. Miraculously, all the lights are working too. The horn was a lash-up which is getting replaced with a standard one.

Getting close to finished now!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 08 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, it's starting but isn't running very well. I've changed out the needle valve in the carb, given it ANOTHER ultrasonic clean (in acetone this time) and brought my compressor home from work to blow it through. The float height was WAY out (like 5mm).

Still starts somewhat reluctantly. Idles well but when you crack the throttle open, it stutters then dies. I'm now confident it is NOT the carburettor.

What do I always say? 90% of carburettion problems are electrical. Ok timing then.

You can set the timing with the auto-advance in the advanced position instead of retarded. Since they spend most of their time at full throttle, hey are better to be slightly out on the fully retarded setting. So locked the auito-advance open with a special tool (a dished washer) and set the timing to 8.5mm BTDC.

Not a single shite of difference. Still won't rev up. Spits, stutters, backfires then cuts out when you try Thinking

Idea
The previous owner was a fuckwit right? And he's used a mixture of 1959, 1991 and 2003 componants. So. Someone who is capable of bodging advance bob-weights off two different bikes is presumably capable of fitting 6v ignition componants to a 12v bike right? I have a spare condenser kicking about somewhere...

So, the black wire one is what was fitted, the orange wire one is what SHOULD be fitted.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YLqBgXQNff-MIalxCV6RipAgF3ispNEUD2ii9kXI6C-w8T4NjT0iJw_D_nRl521PQI15DE2sXuicvLve2u-pOe4SSRxgRZL1T-Zr6ZwQCGvDswwQX4AIW6Te3_KSi_-6gZOkvWXBgw=w1176-h882-no

They look similar but they are not the same. It did indeed have a 1950's, 6v condenser fitted. Condenser changed and it started first prod of the kickstart. Immediately revved cleanly off the throttle. Put that to bed with a shiney new points cover.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bqNR7vCW3n7wpk6HIzqYfsoe8977nk00Uhqnf8z8QJeqgiSydQvQewMi3n_aCGs5sWLiRIhA1HNAPIT_6q14jhawri75ISop1kS6Q0WxIDmWUrGvYw1mz9YvHE7Kg7Us3LsYRx2PkQ=w1176-h882-no

A few more details. The exhaust and tank this bike came with were rotten. Tank had been petsealed but also had a dent in and a lug broken off. I still have the old tank from my 350 which with a little modification (to fit a new fuel tap), fitsa perfectly. The original exhaust also fitted with a judicious alteration to the hanger by means of a vice and a mallet.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dBpGX7M5-8p6_N86y8KU1JkUxZWuzcHDmL46Vu5Vm6JRBBoLsJsx8-kbzHh7yLMKYpJv6g0LzCM8pu0flzW5beuhNc48PgaVdRL0On_IIEQ2PQxnb6aMVu5eQ9TnxWx0XUy6YIVqug=w1176-h882-no

Original "tea caddy" air filter assembly fitted.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QD1isdi_yCPNtybFYkm7ksAo8fdxhhounCUEoGgQaaG3j89hh5HH2R8gV1AFhf0qtKiCt8nv-lShV4n9D6XRhYZtEV8nmKLUo3VAapbcMWMAmF-f2ZIN-2_jnJWXqkM3wa5XXj1EzQ=w1176-h882-no

The seat this came fitted with was held on with wooden blocks. Something tells me it wasn't the one it's designed for. Again, I've been tripping over the original seat off my 350 for years. Again, a little light mallet work to persuade the lugs to line up and we have something that is looking very much like a motorcycle!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A0mNWetb0bKOCJu-9BrCQcLBoSxlGO5PVrkFJ9ASvW8x6xSzdgU-Y6mXQXCcGxgdshFJcjahOS53VoOisDg_Dft_YJnj1ngyooB905Ko0KmqFHyAtrLb0c2cZrHx4QtCXgCq0Wz8Gw=w1176-h882-no

Need to fit the primary chaincase and fill it with oil, refit the rear brake rod and light, setup the clutch and clean up the front brake pistons which are binding slightly (I'll bleed through some fresh fluid too because I'm nice like that), then we'll be ready for a road test!
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 08 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't take pictures but I just took the brake calliper off, pumped the pistons out a bit, gave it all a good clean and lube as appropriate.

The calliper is surprisingly well made. All came apart nicely, including the pad pins and cleaned up very well. I've seen far worse ones fitted to japanese bikes.

I also changed out the brake fluid. This was RANK. It was coludy brown and had actual lumps and crystalised brake fluid on the inside of the master cylinder. I had to scrape it all out with a screwdriver then clean out with brake cleaner and blast out with compressed air (goggles! Don't want crystalised brake fluid in your eye).

I then pumped clean hydraulic fluid through until it came out of the bottom clean and clear. Brake feels very solid now. I couldn't have sold it like that. It was going to fail imminently. Either by sticking on or losing pressure when one of those lumps blocked a hole. I doubt the fluid has been changed since the brake was fitted.

I've also broken the decompressor lever. It's an aftermarket one which was made from really shitty pot-metal. New one on order.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 10 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just took delivery of a massive box of miscellaneous enfield parts off ebay. Cost about £90 delivered. I thought I'd picked out a few bits worth having.

So, of significance, there is a brand new oil pump worm-drive, new oil feed pipes, new rear brake shoes, a new brake drum/sprocket, new engine sprocket, a 350 piston and rings, new cush-drive rubbers, gear selector mechanism.

There's also a set of part-worn clutch plates and springs and a set of worn front brake shoes (worth £25 off new ones as service exchange) and (one I hadn't spotted) a brand new wiring loom and a speedo drive.

There was also some dross in there but there's easily £300+ of spares here, much of which will come in handy on my special build.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 17 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

This has been a good thread for me Thumbs Up , keep up the good work!
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Tracer1234
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 17 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
This has been a good thread for me Thumbs Up , keep up the good work!


He almost looks like he knows what hes doing.
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Riding: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer Occasionally Riding: 08 Suzuki SV650, Potato: 2011 Yamaha YBR Custom.
Used to ride: 2015 Yamaha MT-09 Tracer (smidsy) 09 Triumph Street Triple (P/X'd) 08 Yamaha YBR (Sold)
CBT 04/14. A: Mod 1 & 2 13/04/15
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 17 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll post some more soon.

It's had a fairly sucessful road test. There is still a stuttering misfire at higher revs that gets worse the more revs you give it and I'm not certain if it's fuelling or ignition related. It occurred to me the other day that it could also be the valve lifter so I'm going to try with that removed.

There is some ambiguity as to exactly how high the floats should be so I could simply have that too high. Or perhaps needs the needle position fiddling. My feeling is it's running too rich.

In any case, it'll hit 60mph without too much bother (which it takes the 350 all its time to achieve), seems like quite a punchy motor.

I solved the gear shift problem by moving the lever so it doesn't hit the exhaust. Took longer to find that it ought to. I was busy convincing myself it had a serious gear selector problem.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 17 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still misfiring. Tried wiring the coil directly to the battery which effectively eliminates a wiring fault. No difference.

Still not 100% happy with the points and condenser so I've ordered a new set.

I'm more thinking it's a fuel starvation issue now though. I got it up to 60 and managed to keep it there for a bit, being delicate with the throttle. It eventually conked out, even when I dropped the speed and revs, it didn't pick up again. Came to a halt, waited a fes seconds then it fired up off the kicker.

As such, I've re-adjusted the float height. and checked the fuel tap is clear. I've also binned the internal gauze filter because it has an inline paper element one now.

Poor light stopped play though. very limited on the road test timeslot after work. I'm not taking a misfiring bike with direct lighting up the road in the dark.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 08:58 - 18 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


I'm more thinking it's a fuel starvation issue now though. .


I know you know a lot more about bikery and this bike than me.
However sometimes you can be so close to the trees that you can’t see the forrest.

Are any of the rubbery bits partially collapsing once the engine is warm/hot, possibly causing restricted air flow or fuel flow?
Is the vent/pin hole in the fuel tank lid partially blocked?

On another note : from memory on my old CZs , they had composite/plastic spacer between the carb and the engine.
It’s function was to stop the carb from getting hot and causing fuel to evaporate to soon.
I found this out after bodging the bike together when I first bought it.
I put a metal one in there and it caused me a shed load of problems till someone pointed it out and I replaced it with a plastic/composite spacer.
On my little Honda CG of lovelyness the carb even had its own heat shield!

I’m not saying this is the problem, just putting an idea out there Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 18 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:

Are any of the rubbery bits partially collapsing once the engine is warm/hot, possibly causing restricted air flow or fuel flow?
Is the vent/pin hole in the fuel tank lid partially blocked?


Good call, I'll give it a shot with the airbox rubber off (It's not a CV carb so it's not that fussy about vacuum levels). I'l also try it with the cap open next time but I suspect not because the fuel cap is fairly leaky anyway.

Quote:
On another note : from memory on my old CZs , they had composite/plastic spacer between the carb and the engine.
It’s function was to stop the carb from getting hot and causing fuel to evaporate to soon.
I found this out after bodging the bike together when I first bought it.
I put a metal one in there and it caused me a shed load of problems till someone pointed it out and I replaced it with a plastic/composite spacer.


They do have this issue and you can buy a special tunfoil insulating spacer for them. This one's got a rubber mount though (which I have checked for leaks).
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 20 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you put the 350 carb on it to see if the problems change? Mixture might be a bit off, but I have a feeling that this bike isn't all that sensitive to mixture.

That will give you and idea of whether the problem is in the carb or elsewhere.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 24 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately the 350 carb has a different manifold.

Ok. Interesting.

I tried it without the airbox rubber and this made it a lot worse. It would start but not pull away at all. So I raised the needle which improved things but it was still cutting out/not firing/backfiring after riding at higher revs for a while then backing off.

So far, so good, improved but then it was idling in the workshop as I went to tweak the mixture and started making a loud clattering from the exhaust area and conked out. It would restart but then do the same again. I've heard a similar noise before and it was a tight exhaust tappet. That checked out ok.

I have two theories. One is the exhaust valve could be sticking open intermittantly, and when I look closely, the valve stem oil seal is now off the valve guide and floating about on the valve stem. This is the really clean looking head off the "fuckwit" bike that looks to have been stripped, polished and reassembled but never run.

Theory two is that the auto-advance is sticking on advanced and it's backfiring at idle speed.

I do suspect the head is ropy in some way though (everything else this guy has touched has been) so I've whipped it off and swapped in the Indian take-away one which has some reassuring signs of having been used. Not fully reassembled yet.

Next step would be to fit some stronger advance springs. It currently has indian home market ones which in fairness do flick out very easily.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 25 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was the head. Now running really well right up and down the rev range.

I suspect the "fuckwit" head has been rebuilt with new valve guides that haven't been reamed in. Or some similar problem causing the exhaust valve to stick open intermittantly.

Changed out the head and it fired up first kick andsettled down to a steady idle then rode 5 miles without missing a beat other than a front end slide on gravel which I corrected by giving it some right hand.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 29 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know if you are interested, but I was reading an old ClassicBike mag on the pot which contained an article about a 500 Bullet, tuned by Hitchcocks for 119mph.

If you are interested and want me to post the mag to you, let me know.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 30 Oct 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diggs wrote:
Don't know if you are interested, but I was reading an old ClassicBike mag on the pot which contained an article about a 500 Bullet, tuned by Hitchcocks for 119mph.

If you are interested and want me to post the mag to you, let me know.


On it. That's the exact variant I'm planning on building (but unfaired).

Thanks for the offer though.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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JonE
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PostPosted: 08:29 - 01 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bikes looking good, well done on the spares haul, I could relieve you of one of the spare oil packing pieces if you like Very Happy
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 24 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah baby! Now waiting to see if the DVLA will be difficult about the engine number change.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=100581
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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arry
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PostPosted: 06:53 - 24 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one!
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 24 Nov 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

What arry said Thumbs Up
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